- Thread starter hooblah
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1) It will make minimal difference.
2) Have the whole lot skimmed imo.
3) No you don't have to it won't blend in as such and may hairline crack down the bead. This may not matter depending on what final covering on wall is.
You have done well, it is an odd shape room, had I had a choice and if possible I would have removed the stack top to bottom.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I looked into sound proofing my party wall...didn't do it in the end.
There were some good products around...heavy rubber mat to absorb sound. Also some sort of flexible bars to isolate the front board from the walls behind.
There were some good products around...heavy rubber mat to absorb sound. Also some sort of flexible bars to isolate the front board from the walls behind.
gaz1
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well its your choice and yet i think your foolish and i will explain
you loose storage space by blocking both alcoves in
ontop of that you also loose 3 double plugs by blocking the alcoves off
the size of room you have you could create a full frontal cupboard with drawers and a vanity mirror for a lady
drawers across the front of the chimney breast
double wardrobe to the right and a single wardrobe to the left a mirror and top for a vanity unit
addjunkie
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If there womens wardrobes theyd be good sound insulation as they be rammed full
This is very factual and very true.
gaz1
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as goes for sound deadening of neighbour noise you can use the french cleat insulation method
or you can use insulation board with insulation slabs inbetween
to do this cut the insulation board into strips and glue osb boards or plyboards to it this gives you 3" or 4" of insulation to play with better than 2" and a gap
the glued on board allows you to screw the plasterboard to it
or you can use insulation board with insulation slabs inbetween
to do this cut the insulation board into strips and glue osb boards or plyboards to it this gives you 3" or 4" of insulation to play with better than 2" and a gap
the glued on board allows you to screw the plasterboard to it
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I was looking at decoupling the acoustic plasterboard with a stud frame and infill with absorbing insulation. It was going to be a lot of work and I'd lose quite a bit of my room....in the end I decided a better solution would be to decouple myself by moving house!
....still looking for a new "dream" place...have been for about 5 years now!
....still looking for a new "dream" place...have been for about 5 years now!
gaz1
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it depends on age of the property whilst older propertys was built 3/4 bricks wide newer propertys are not as they are only 2 or 3 bricks wide
soiled filed boundary walls have there issues but they are 1-2ft thick compared to 12-16" thick boundary walls
brightspark
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my house is 140 years old next to the railway its built on massive sandstone blocks then 4 bricks wide on top of them then a cavity brick wall 
roof timbers are massive
roof timbers are massiveE
100mm will be lost. This makes little difference.
The plug sockets will be retained.
The layout has been taken into consideration for the placement of furniture etc. I have made a complete design in CAD which allows me to see what works and what doesn't.
100mm will be lost. This makes little difference.
The plug sockets will be retained.
The layout has been taken into consideration for the placement of furniture etc. I have made a complete design in CAD which allows me to see what works and what doesn't.
That's exactly what I'm doing. I don't think it's too much work, certainly less work than dealing with that ceiling was. Metal stud framing is straight forward, easier than wood.
I'm only losing 100mm at the most.
gaz1
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insulate is also sound deadening the one ive shown you seperates from the wall the way ive suggested you gain 4" insulation in the process instead of a gap and then 2-3" of insulation
The idea is to build an independent wall which is decoupled from the existing (hence the gap) and add mass to the new wall (hence 2 sheets of acoustic plasterboard).
Insulation does not deaden, mass does. The reason for the insulation between the studs is to stop or minimise reflections/reverberations within the cavity. The same reason that speakers have wadding inside.
Sandwiching insulation between two panels is not effective as it still offers a path for sound to travel through.
I've done a lot of reading into this and an independent wall is universally accepted as the best method of sound insulation.
Insulation does not deaden, mass does. The reason for the insulation between the studs is to stop or minimise reflections/reverberations within the cavity. The same reason that speakers have wadding inside.
Sandwiching insulation between two panels is not effective as it still offers a path for sound to travel through.
I've done a lot of reading into this and an independent wall is universally accepted as the best method of sound insulation.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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That's also the conclusion I came to.
The reason I decided not to bother is the neighbour has removed their chimneys...so I suspected that a lot of the sound might be coming thro the chimney on my side which the sound wall wouldn't help with.
addjunkie
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Dream houses are readily available. Its paying for them that is the issue!
gaz1
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if your neighbours have taken down the chimney it wouldnt still affect you unless theyve striped the boundary wall of the first layer of brick due to fire damage
its at this point some bodgers use the method of framing and boarding
alot of people neglect to think about is the floor and sound travels well in them the last pic uploaded tells me its side beams not front wall beams to the internal walls you can tell by looking at the way the floorboards run
now on a 4 brick boundary wall where the beams are if they are not block you will get sound through them
a beam will be sat on 2 bricks not one and that happens on both sides thats why a 5 brick boundary wall is better
sound through a double chimney or a single sided chimney wont happen due to the air inside of the chimney but bass can through the solid wall
