Building a CNC Lathe

[northwest]

I think so Robin but I am going to go need take a look as there were four rows of pins, nine per row?

I will order one anyway but I am pretty cross with myself at the moment, I put the plug "somewhere safe"

 

[m_c]

Like THIS?

I think that's too big.

I think this is the correct model of connector (MDR aka Mini D Ribbon) - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/d-sub-connectors/4999881 however my initial searches can't find any male solder/cable plugs. I think I might have one as I think the Kinco servos use the same connector, but it'll be tomorrow night before I can go rummaging.

 

[Hood]

Ah ok, so what about THIS

 

[Hood]

Or maybe THIS?

 

[Migmac]

I think so Robin but I am going to go need take a look as there were four rows of pins, nine per row?

I will order one anyway but I am pretty cross with myself at the moment, I put the plug "somewhere safe"

It’ll be plugged into the other end of the cable!

 

[northwest]

Today I determined to find out what was causing the machine to "fault" most of the time. I thought it might be the ballscrew on the Z axis but couldn't prove it so I took it apart to find out:



There are a pair of telescoping covers at either side of the carriage:

They are now removed and in the scrap, they have been the cause of all the trouble, without them it is working just fine. In all fairness @m_c did warn me that they had caused an issue on his machine, well they are not going to cause any trouble now. Now I really need the home switches to arrive and wire them in:



The learning continues, but only 'til two when I have to go sort out the Colchester wiring.

 

[Robotstar5]

For way covers and ballscrew covers you won't beat Beakbane they have been supplying industry for many years.

 

[m_c]

The issue I had with the original covers, were they limited travel.
The one at the tail stock end reached full travel if I didn't have enough tool stick out, but I couldn't be bothered dismantling everything to remove it, so used to just take the mounting screw out if I needed to get nearer the chuck.

 

[northwest]

The issue I had was I really don't know what I am doing so I would start a sequence off that would impinge on the covers and instantly fault it, so they are gone! I am not going far enough. On a positive note, the postman has just been bringing me these:

CN14/20/26/36/50Pin SCSI Servo Connection Cable with Terminal 28AWG Signal Head Double Layer Shielded Line for Panasonic Yaskawa - AliExpress 13

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

and the good news is they fit perfectly. Took a couple of weeks but hey, saved a lot of money that I don't have.

 

[northwest]

Well a bit further on today and some more pictures. I wanted an ER40 Collet chuck so today I set out to assemble one from bits, a backplate and a chuck cassette, set the backplate up in the four jaw on the Harrison:



Bloody cast, it goes everywhere, one of my least favorite materials. Absolutely perfect for this though:



Machine a register but leave a couple mm for later:



Then fit it to the actual machine it is going to be used on and make the final cuts on that with the CNC machine in manual mode.
It was an absolute revelation, so precise and accurate a very easy job:



Fitting the casette was a bit of a pain, one of the holes I drilled had an artifact in it and it was a bit of a bugger to do. Goes with the territory I suppose:




All I need to do now is fit the home switches, do that over the weekend I hope. Tidy that wiring up too!

 

[northwest]

Well, I am learning the machine now, I have a little bit of code that just might make something if I let it but that can wait, I was warned by @m_c that the switch was marginal at best and he was dead right it started to arc so I replaced it, I have it switching just 12 volts now, which in turn enables a relay which supplies the full 240v and it works just great. The only snag is it doesn't light up anymore :-(

This is the wiring diagram for the switch, does anyone here have any idea how I can make it light up? I have simply used the centre and lower right hand terminals to supply the 12volts.

I intend this switch to be the on/off but I am looking for something a bit substantial to isolate the mains. No good just flicking the wall switch on and off!



If anyone has any suggestions for a main isolator switch I would be very grateful.

 

[Robotstar5]

I have an Eaton 20 Amp 2 pole panel mount isolator if that's any use?

 

[m_c]

Well, I am learning the machine now, I have a little bit of code that just might make something if I let it but that can wait, I was warned by @m_c that the switch was marginal at best and he was dead right it started to arc so I replaced it, I have it switching just 12 volts now, which in turn enables a relay which supplies the full 240v and it works just great. The only snag is it doesn't light up anymore :-(

This is the wiring diagram for the switch, does anyone here have any idea how I can make it light up? I have simply used the centre and lower right hand terminals to supply the 12volts.

I intend this switch to be the on/off but I am looking for something a bit substantial to isolate the mains. No good just flicking the wall switch on and off!

View attachment 525780

If anyone has any suggestions for a main isolator switch I would be very grateful.

You'll need a 12V version..

Alternatively you could get green and red 22mm buttons, and have dedicated On/Off buttons.

 

[Robotstar5]

You'll need a 12V version..

Alternatively you could get green and red 22mm buttons, and have dedicated On/Off buttons.

I have a few red and green buttons spare, but you would need to change lamp module from 24V to 12V