Brake Pressure Bleeder

[frank horton]

the prob with the master clinders OF all types they get a slight lip inside from wear, thats cos the piston always stops in the same place...hence the lip....
only push 1/2 waydown....it still works....
I was in the bush Africa...we had a 4x4that would not bleed,clutch....
I used a cleaned out pump oil can from the nipple.....got us home OK....

never had the need for any press/vac bleeder....in 50 years...

 

[premmington]

the prob with the master clinders OF all types they get a slight lip inside from wear, thats cos the piston always stops in the same place...hence the lip....
only push 1/2 waydown....it still works....
I was in the bush Africa...we had a 4x4that would not bleed,clutch....
I used a cleaned out pump oil can from the nipple.....got us home OK....

never had the need for any press/vac bleeder....in 50 years...

Lots of vehicle brake systems I work on now - I have to use a scan tool - to run the ABS modulator with the vehicle static to bleed the brakes up.

 

[bricol]

Used a Gunson one for 30 plus years after borrowing one.

Cap seal went floppy from exposure to brake fluid, but the replacement one I made has been fine. If the cap won't fit on, find one that fits over, and tie-wrap it on.

I cover it in a heavy rag, just in case of leakage, and keep a watering can ready to rinse the whole area. Use from a spare wheel with the tyre let down and it just works.

I have a hand vacuum pump version, and while it works, its more effort.

A Lancia specialist in London a long time ago used to claim master cylinders in the un-used bit where the piston doesn't tend to go, suffer from corrosion and hence wreck the seals when you bleed using the foot method . . . and used that excuse to change mine and charge me mucho wonga for it . . . I've never had a problem with many cars in 30 odd years. Most of those cars had extremely rusty steel brake pipes, hence the need to bleed the system after replacement. Initially with mum on the pedal (which one is it? . . . revved the nuts of my Alfa 75 once, having slammed the wrong pedal to the floor . . .) and then various girl friends have had to listen to the "down . . . up . . . .down . . . up . . . " . . . the odd one has found "bleeding brakes" an hysterically funny phrase

 

[8ob]

These pressure bleeders with a decent sized reservoir are about as good as they get, the kit of reservoir caps is only a starting point, I collect all the oddball caps and put my own fitting in the top.

Bob

 

[AKN]

Another vote for the Gunsons. I use it off the airline with a second regulator set for about 15 psig.

 

[AVI_8]

Lots of vehicle brake systems I work on now - I have to use a scan tool - to run the ABS modulator with the vehicle static to bleed the brakes up.

Yes if there’s a leak in a brake pipe and the level goes down and air gets into one of the lines it’s the only way to bleed the ABS pump, it happened to me last year on my X5, to replace the line and bleed the brakes cost £400, I’m still spitting feathers to this day as I could have done it myself if I had the software.

I’ve since got Ista and learned how to use it so I won’t get caught out there again.

 

[AVI_8]

haven't used one and don't know the name... but gave mechanic next door a hand once for 2 min... he used a pressure system that pushed fluid back up the system from the bleed nipple..... worked really well

no idea what other people think of them

I’ve never done it that way before, always flushed it from the reservoir down

 

[premmington]

Yes if there’s a leak in a brake pipe and the level goes down and air gets into one of the lines it’s the only way to bleed the ABS pump, it happened to me last year on my X5, to replace the line and bleed the brakes cost £400, I’m still spitting feathers to this day as I could have done it myself if I had the software.

I’ve since got Ista and learned how to use it so I won’t get caught out there again.

ISTA is a very handy tool.

 

[AVI_8]

ISTA is a very handy tool.

Yeh it paid for itself last week just to register a new battery.

 

[premmington]

I’ve never done it that way before, always flushed it from the reservoir down

Reverse bleeding is an option - mostly used for motorbikes/scooters and clutch cylinders (things with a low volume reservoir).

You must never move pedal or handle bar lever away from its fill stroke - if pressurising backwards.

Never push the pedal down as you can wreck seals on the piston.

But when seals are in the fill stroke - it is safe!

 

[JMS1972]

I recently used a Sealey pressure bleeder, I'm now a fan

Sealey VS820 Car & Motorcycle Brake & Clutch Fluid Bleeding Draining System 2.5 Litre - PrimeTools

One-man brake and clutch bleeding the professional way. Bleeding requires no external power source – simply fill and pump. Reservoir holds 2.5 litres of hydraulic fluid – flush the entire system with one fill, without the risk of running the reservoir dry. Pressure range makes unit suitable for...

www.primetools.co.uk

It does have the issue of needing the right cap but having used many solutions over the years including one way valves, suction bleeders, Gunson etc this one is the best yet

I'd second buying one of these. I was so chuffed with mine I ended up doing 3 cars in a row makes it so easy.....

 

[T5 TDI]

I had a brake bleeder in the 80's with a large sphere with a diaphragm inside. It used compressed air to pressurise the sphere and that lasted for 3 or 4 fluid changes. The diaphragm separated the (possibly damp) compressed air from the fluid. It worked really well. All I have left of it are a couple of the aluminium reservoir caps with the hose fitting on them. I've never seen another one since, can't even find it on google. I think it was called 'The Mobie' and made by a firm in Brum called 'JAR Developments'. It would bleed anything and it really did physically press out the old fluid and press in the new without mixing from the top. :-)

You can use VCDS to run the ABS pump on VAG cars but I've only ever needed to use it once when I fitted a new ABS pump that wouldn't bleed properly. A simple tube and up/down method mentioned works for 99% of cars, it's just the odd b&**&d you need anything else for!

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I prefer vacuum method using a Mityvac or similar

 

[charlysays]

I’m looking to get a brake pressure bleeder, up until now I’ve always done it the old fashioned way, but it’s not great for the MC seals on BMW’s I’ve been told.
For the mechanics amongst you can you recommend one to get?
Thanks

I have a sealey VS820 which has been great for several years now. Occasionally you have to grease the plunger shaft and it's a good idea to fill it with fresh brake fluid now and again.

I too wrecked a master cylinder on my Merc bleeding the oldschool way. If the MC body is Alu, there's often a slight wear ridge where the main piston typically moves. When you sink the pedal to the floor it damages the seal on the wear ridge. This can be an expensive mistake, MCs for such cars can be very expensive even aftermarket ones.
Also it seems impossible to bleed ABS pumps without a good head of pressure.
When I've changed a MC or ABS pump on my Merc W202 I've had to pressurise to 2 BAR then bleed a good 2-3 ltrs through the system to get all the air out. Hard enough with a pressure bleeder, probably impossible without.

 

[premmington]

I prefer vacuum method using a Mityvac or similar

I struggle with vac bleeding - as I can never "seal onto the nipple". I just get a stream of air and I don't know if it is coming from bad nipple sealing or from the brake system.

Only thing I use vac bleeding for it is bleeding diesel systems and it works a treat.

 

[pedrobedro]

My brake bleed kit has always been the rubber tube with a ball bearing in the end and a split in the side. Drop the end in a jar of brake fluid, undo the nipple and pump starting at the furthest from the master cylinder and work down to the nearest.

 

[RWD3M]

I’m looking to get a brake pressure bleeder, up until now I’ve always done it the old fashioned way, but it’s not great for the MC seals on BMW’s I’ve been told.
For the mechanics amongst you can you recommend one to get?
Thanks

Funnily enough, I was in the same position as you up until I went to the Restoration Show at the NEC earlier this year where I picked up one of these:

Draper Expert Universal Brake Bleeding Kit

Established in 1919, Draper Tools is a supplier of quality trade, professional and diy tools. Check out the massive range of tools available from one supplier.

www.drapertools.com

from the Draper stand for £30. Good bit of kit, used it a couple of times now and it works well.

I should add, I used it on old stuff too!

 

[MysterG]

I used a Gunson one for many years without a problem.
Until one day the old bottle burst a seam (yes it was at the correct pressure) and sprayed fluid all over the engine bay.
Seems the 30 yr old plastic had degraded somewhat

 

[MetalMonkey]

As with many things it depends on the situation, - sometimes it’s best to blow, sometimes sucking works better, and occasionally you just need to give it the good old vigorous manual pumping.

 

[Eric the chicken]

I used a Gunson one for many years without a problem.
Until one day the old bottle burst a seam (yes it was at the correct pressure) and sprayed fluid all over the engine bay.
Seems the 30 yr old plastic had degraded somewhat

Good grief, is nothing made to last these days?