- Thread starter 8ob
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Shedendman
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Erm sorry nothing to do with the welder itself,these dc clamps,er we talking like these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...023873&hash=item5b545895b9:g:sIoAAOSwzodcLawY
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...023873&hash=item5b545895b9:g:sIoAAOSwzodcLawY
Memmeddu
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This thing can't measure DC currentsErm sorry nothing to do with the welder itself,these dc clamps,er we talking like these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...023873&hash=item5b545895b9:g:sIoAAOSwzodcLawY
I have a similar issue ,I will end buying a fluke 375 I think , but I have to earn money before because is almost 400 euros , not a big problem because is something I really need to work but isn't a cheap option for me
But every time I bought something expensive I had no regrets especially talking about tools
And fluke is a great brand and also very reliable so
Current range is 600A AC/DC ,I don't need this much of range but I thought that maybe some day I will probably need so I will end buying that also because it comes with the "Fluke I.loop" that is a flexible current transducer that especially inside switch pannels and tight spaces should be very handy because you can wrap or bend to have a good access .
Other that there is also the satisfaction of using good instrument and this is something that helps to feel better in stressful jobs
That's IMHO
Someone will never buy something expensive like that because they refuse to pay for a particular brand but ,I am an electrical operator I work as eletrician and the impression that you give to customer is more important than what someone can think
Using good tools makes the difference in many cases ,both for quality of your work and because if you take care of them they will last forever
8ob
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arther dailey
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Ref. clamp-on meters: I have a "Made in Taiwan" meter: YF-8030A. It measures the usual stuff, plus frequency and capacitance. The current scale has two ranges - 0 to 400A and 0 to 1200A ( !! ), both AC and DC. It has a "Hold" button that will freeze the minimum or the maximum reading. I was lucky to get it secondhand for only £27. They can still be found:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YF-8030A...-ELECTRICITY-TESTER-CAT-III-VGC-/303262025969
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YF-8030A...-ELECTRICITY-TESTER-CAT-III-VGC-/303262025969
Memmeddu
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Little bit to expensive for the quality ...
On AliExpress you should find something much better and cheaper than what you paid for
northwest
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Didn’t think anyone was showing any interest, I will get on with it
Bob
Wondering if you have given it a whirl yet?
The only thing stopping me buying one of these is the bit in the ebay advert which goes on about a 32amp supply and the plugs are supplied with it and it wont work on a 13amp socket and so on and so on etc.
How high can it be turned up before there is an issue with the 13am socket?
8ob
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No, need to get a packet of 4mm rods, perhaps later in the week. Tried it on the .8 wire and thats all good. May get a chance to finish review over the weekend.
Bob
NickPembers
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Hi, i bought this welder also however have problems with it - since i dont have a 32A socket i use a 13A adapter and based on a suggestion for flux cored welding i switched the leads over inside the welder. I welded fine for a while but then the motor would stop feeding wire entirely, even when pressing the feed wire button inside the case, but the current would still be running through the gun. I sent it back and was told it was fine but i should not have switched the leads over and it was in the handbook (oops). When i got it back i welded with it fine but then the motor stopped working again. The only way it started again was when i switched the plug it was plugged into and it worked again for a short while before cutting out again. Stick welding with it has never been a problem.
Is this an issue with my power source or the adapter or...? Any ideas?
Is this an issue with my power source or the adapter or...? Any ideas?
Hello, and welcome to the Forum!
The welder should work fine at low power settings from a standard 13A plug, or via a 13A -> 32A adapter. It would only need connecting to a 16A or 32A supply if running flat out.
Regarding polarity, it is quite usual to swap between torch positive for solid wire with gas and torch negative for gasless flux-core wire. What does the handbook say about this - that it's not necessary?
For a machine that has +ve and -ve Dinse sockets on the front panel, the normal way to swap torch polarity is to move the internal cable that feeds the brass block of the Eurotorch socket to the back of the appropriate Dinse socket. Is that what you did?
Problems with the feed motor would not usually be related to either of the above two issues. Moving to a different supply socket, if Arc welding is fine, should not cause or solve a wirefeed motor fault. Have you checked inside the machine for loose or poorly seated connectors?
The welder should work fine at low power settings from a standard 13A plug, or via a 13A -> 32A adapter. It would only need connecting to a 16A or 32A supply if running flat out.
Regarding polarity, it is quite usual to swap between torch positive for solid wire with gas and torch negative for gasless flux-core wire. What does the handbook say about this - that it's not necessary?
For a machine that has +ve and -ve Dinse sockets on the front panel, the normal way to swap torch polarity is to move the internal cable that feeds the brass block of the Eurotorch socket to the back of the appropriate Dinse socket. Is that what you did?
Problems with the feed motor would not usually be related to either of the above two issues. Moving to a different supply socket, if Arc welding is fine, should not cause or solve a wirefeed motor fault. Have you checked inside the machine for loose or poorly seated connectors?
mike 109444
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From what you have described as having done then I would suspect the dinz socket having a loose connection on it's rear (nuts worked loose) on the post used for mig and the one for arc would be ok hence why it works ok on arc. You could try pushing the dinz plug, while pulling trigger in mig mode.
only just saw this thread... I've got the same machine but with the name TigMig on the side of it
very impressed with mine..... mate who is a much better welder than me is very impressed with it too (especially for the price)
my brother left my first one out in the rain so I bough another, both have been great
put quite a bit of wire through the 2nd one with it turned up on full power (welding (bodging) a 50kg cog onto a 4inch shaft) - it didn't miss a beat and didn't cut out on duty cycle - I started welding and didn't stop, trying to get as much heat into the material as possible
very impressed with mine..... mate who is a much better welder than me is very impressed with it too (especially for the price)
my brother left my first one out in the rain so I bough another, both have been great
put quite a bit of wire through the 2nd one with it turned up on full power (welding (bodging) a 50kg cog onto a 4inch shaft) - it didn't miss a beat and didn't cut out on duty cycle - I started welding and didn't stop, trying to get as much heat into the material as possible
NickPembers
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I am only using it on low power settings so shouldnt be a problem like you said! The handbook says not to switch polarity admitedly. Yes i switched the two cables inside the case, not sure what they feed to exactly but switched the dinse socket for where the ground clamp is. I havent opened the case up fully, will do so and see if i can find anything loose! Will also try pushing dinse sockets in as i pull trigger. Thanks!
mike 109444
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That may well have been the cause of your motors failing!
Not sure how things are set up in an inverter welder but in a normal (transformer) based machine the feed motor assembly is isolated from the chassis of the machine by insulating bushes (see pic) or by being made of plastic.
