Best way to apply m2.5 taps in 1.5 mild?

[julianf]

If laser cutting the holes reduces the effort a lot, then a spiral point tap will be most forgiving, but you will need the smaller 2.05mm holes.
My choice would be get the holes marked. Drill them with a carbide stub drill in drill press just before tapping with cordless.
I use 2.1mm carbide drills for most small holes including with cordless. The reduced flex keeps it right on the centre punch instead of wondering about like a normal hss will.

Im quite happy to go with that if it does the job.

I did these with the hand drill, and, whilst they didnt work, it wasnt as random as i thought it would be at all. I do wonder if ill ware out the forwards / reverse slider though!

I dont mind getting the reversing chuck that someone, possibly you, mentioned before, once these teething issues are dealt with.

Ive got the m3 tap ordered now anyway. The job can use m2.5 or m3 - people just like m2.5 as it gives them a little play for alignment issues, but, if it were me, id choose m3 - but its not me buying them, so i have to do what they want, not what i would want!

I got a handful (5) made up. Im hoping they will go to m3, but, even if they dont, ill still spray them up and use them for product photos!

 

[ukracer]

If I go for the lasered pilot and then opening up the hole to size myself, is this the sort of kit I should be looking at -

PRESTO M50 1.0MM - 5.9MM DIN338 HSS DRILL SET 09500M50 - Myford Tools

50 Pcs Jobber Drill Set – 1.0mm – 5.9mm in 0.1mm increments. General-purpose drill, to drill steels with tensile strength up to 1.000 N/mm2, cast steel, grey cast iron, malleable cast iron, nickel brass and graphite. Number of Drills – 50 Material – HSS Finish – P1 Steam Tempered

www.myford.co.uk

I don't really do precision stuff by hand so all this is (kind of) new to me!

Nope. Just buy the sizes you need at that size. In packs of 10.
Once you figure out the correct size you will only need that size.
Have to tried the drill/mills yet.

It's my guess the Laser process has hardened the sides of the holes into the steel a little and the steel if crumbling rather than cutting

 

[julianf]

I use 2.1mm carbide drills for most small holes including with cordless. The reduced flex keeps it right on the centre punch instead of wondering about like a normal hss will.

One last thing - when you say 2.1 for most holes... thats not implying i should use 2.1 for my job, is it?

 

[mike os]

I would still be looking at spiral point

M3 should tap ok … what’s the worst that can happen?

0.04 is not a lot except when it’s on 0.2 of thread ….

 

[julianf]

I would still be looking at spiral point

Some stuff i know about. Most stuff i dont know about.

I know nothing about threadding - all i did was ask here and go with what seemed to be the consensus / best looking idea!

Ive no ego about it - i rolled a dice and went with one option! : )

 

[ukracer]

They seem to be hard to find. But would make your life a lot easier with a pierced hole from the laser to guide you.

 

[PhillipM]

Drill service sell loads of combined drill/taps - would be perfect for the job. They're a little pricey compared to some but decent tools

 

[Kram]

One last thing - when you say 2.1 for most holes... thats not implying i should use 2.1 for my job, is it?

No its the wrong size for a fluteless.

If you use a cutting tap, drill sizes depend on the engagement you want. 2.00mm will give 85%, 2.1 gives 70% and 75% is the standard 2.05mm. As yours is only 1.5mm sheet you will want to be on the higher side but its harder work for the tap.
In a tough steel you want a lower engagement to protect the tap, and a deep thread it doesnt matter so much.

 

[Pete.]

If you specify a hole size for a thread cutting tap you can always open it up for a roll tap. You can't go the other way.

 

[daedalusminos]

Actually, not sure how well they'd work in a laser cut hole

 

[julianf]

View attachment 308162
Actually, not sure how well they'd work in a laser cut hole

That's another option, but, at the moment, more bother.

Because of the proximity to the bend, they would need putting in after bending and then it's not so simple to insert them.

If the tapping of the original design can be resolved then its a winner without inserts.

 

[Ruffian]

How about a stud welder with captive nuts on the inside??

 

[julianf]

How about a stud welder with captive nuts on the inside??

I had to google stud welder, but was still unsure!

 

[julianf]

The M3 fluteless turned up this morning, and, I must admit, that I've plunged it through the old m2.5 thread without issue!

It's bumped up a bit of a burr on the upper surface (the entry surface) but nothing significant.

On the other boxes, I'll run a drill through just to clean up the inside of the hole and then go ahead with the M3.


This is now, however, all slightly redundant, as i have found that i can get an off-the-shelf tapped strip that can sit behind the rail and give the thread. Which then means the box can be made in alloy. for cheaper shipping (most of my trade is export)

But, hey, thanks to all here i have learnt something along the way!

 

[awemawson]

I had to google stud welder, but was still unsure!

Have a look at the one I bought some time ago, described in this thread:

KES-1600 / HBS Stud Welder

KES-1600 / HBS Stud Welder

www.madmodder.net

 

[julianf]

Got around to taking some photos of that job -

Of course, its just more of the same really.

The gloss isnt "sports car" by any stretch of the imagination, but you can see my 3yr old photography "assistant's" hand if you look in the last photo...

The wood is more interesting than the photos show -

I mean they're hardly fine cabinet making, but they look nice. Epoxy in English oak.

Thanks to all once again.

 

[julianf]

More of the same -