Bedford TK

  1. colnerov

    colnerov Member

    Messages:
    3,167
    Location:
    Nr Gatwick UK
    Hi, It sounds like the rad matrix may be blocked, try feeling the matrix with your hand and see how many hot and cold spots there are. There maybe enough of it flowing to cool it at tickover but not when its working hard.

    Colin
     
  2. knighty Member

    Messages:
    1,659
    Location:
    Sunderland
    then I think the problem is down to your radiator and/or fan

    I looked back but couldn't see a decent photo of the radiator fins... but I'm guessing they're decent enough or you'd have changed it already/said something

    colin posted above as I was typing... I was going to say there must be enough flow through it for the outlet pipe to be hot.... but it could be mostly blocked so the water is rushing through a small area instead of slowly through the whole radiator?

    I'd check for cold spots above, and check the fan... how much air does it pull through the radiator? (it should be a lot)

    does the fan have any numbers on it? amps/watts? any chance you have a dc clamp meter so check how many amps it's pulling in use?
     
  3. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    Thanks guys.

    I think the core is OK. I took the rad to the shop when it was out, they flushed it and pressure tested it and said it was OK. They described the core as 'OK but a little soft'. I think they meant that the fins a bit bendy but there were none so bad that airflow would be affected.

    I think the fan is the problem - simply not powerful enough.
    • I have ordered another similar fan that I could run as a pusher on the front of the rad
    • I could ditch the original shroud and mount the puller fan directly to the core (or on small brackets)
    • I could seek out an original fan and shroud but I don't really want to do that - there are definite advantages to electric fans (when they work!)
    • I will try and measure the fan current
    • I've ordered (yet) another https://daviescraig.com.au/thermatic-electric-fans 16" fan. This time not an eBay cheapo one. It draws 9.5A @ 24V and shifts over 2000 CFM. I really need to get this sorted out over the Xmas break so I'm throwing a bit of money at it.
     
  4. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    New fan arrived and is much bigger and chunkier than the first one I fitted. Will try and fit it over the Xmas break, I think the radiator will have to come out.

    P1040022.JPG

    Merry Xmas to all my fellow forumites and thank you for your input and encouragement over the past year.
     
  5. Hog-Rider Member

    Messages:
    113
    Location:
    Henley in Arden in Warwickshire
    Just a thought,I remember many years ago I had a same problem, I bought a smaller Rad the type that can be used on a race saloon type of Car. I also fitted an electric fan to it , I extended the Hose from the main Rad to the second Rad I had installed underneath it worked kept the temp down a treat.
     
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  6. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    A few problems with a leaky injector pump but nothing a specialist could not sort out.

    52757122_2777956612231111_86200036580392960_n.jpg

    Runs a bit better now, we haven't checked the fuel consumption but should be improved in theory
     
    Farside, DAPPH, octo0072000 and 3 others like this.
  7. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    Truck on holiday somewhere in the North Island

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    Tobymonster, stuvy, garethp and 19 others like this.
  8. iwoo Member

    Messages:
    43
    Durham England
    Nice truck, how is the cooling working Fella?
     
    stuvy likes this.
  9. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    Cooling is working but a bit marginal on hills. I spoke to my radiator shop and they said that a re-core would help - the quality and efficiency of radiator cores has come a long way in the last 50 years. I may get that done over the winter.
     
    stuvy likes this.
  10. james butler

    james butler Member

    Messages:
    1,206
    Location:
    birmingham england
    this is very true!
    on my datsun the temp would soar when booting it so i ordered a new radiator made by mishimoto and to my suprise it was a good 10cm shorter than the old one although thickness and width was the same.
    the new rad had three cores compared to the old ones 2 core and it made a massive difference!
     
  11. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Living the dream!! :thumbup: I like the wine bottle & glasses! :drunk: :D
     
    stuvy likes this.
  12. DAPPH

    DAPPH Member

    Messages:
    1,797
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
    Myles as a quick fix ..... have you tried cleaning he cooling system & back flushing the rad yourself ? One ounce of citric acid crystals in a pint of hot water poured in the rad . run the engine for 20 min or so to get to working temp for few minutes to mix the citric acid solution & get it all circulated . Leave it overnight .
    Do a 20 min run of the engine in the morning to loosen any crud then turn it off & drain the rad Now back flush the rad from the bottom hose for a few minutes.
    It's handy to make up an adaptor to pipe the dirty water off from the rad filler neck . Let it cool by itself for a coupe of hours then refill the rad adding a small 250 ml can of radiator weld just incase you have un blocked a tiny leak .
    Often people take a rad to a workshop for it to be cleaned but forget that the block is also likely to be silted up or have flow rduced due to mineral deposits in the coolant and / or oil from the occasional partly blown head gasket .

    I can't remember if you sprayed the rad with something like Gunk engine cleaner from both sides left it for a couple of hours and power washed it out with warm water from the engine side keeping the lance nozzle at least 15 inches from the cores . Then using a bit of thin plastic cut to size redress any bent over fins if possible .

    One other thing that came to mind just now . Have you actually checked the temperature & operation of the thermostat using a bucket of hot water and a thermometer or isn't there one in the system .
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  13. Farside

    Farside Badly Welded Man

    Messages:
    3,188
    Location:
    Ireland
    One of the biggest killers of radiators is the habit of topping them up with tap water, whether mixed with anti-freeze or not.
    It's a haphazard affair, as most people don't know or care about the quality of the water coming out of their tap, but given the likelihood of hard water being introduced to any given old radiator at some or many times in its past, it's quite possible that scaling up has happened.
    This is why I've been keen to find sources of soft water local to me, and have developed the habit of storing the condensate from my dehumidifiers. It soon adds up and right now I've got enough to refill a dozen cooling systems.
     
    magnet likes this.
  14. DAPPH

    DAPPH Member

    Messages:
    1,797
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
    Rain water caught off a plastic sheet or non metallic or cement tiled roof is also fairly soft water .. filter it through a fine cloth o remove any crud before you pop it in the cooling system . I have a 310 litre rain barrel to play with if needed .
     
    Farside likes this.
  15. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    We're lucky up here, no scaling from our soft water - that's also why whisky is good for you...in moderation :D
    Never seems to need topping up anyway, so I'm lucky on 2 counts :thumbup:.

    Our water used to have a slight brown tinge from being filtered by peat, then simply run through filters to remove any contamination. It tasted absolutely beautiful, then the 'safety' crowd got on the case and spent millions on a water-treatment plant up in the hills, pulling water from a loch. Sadly they overlooked dry Summers and their intake pipes didn't reach the water when the level dropped through evaporation. :doh: Cue much more expenditure with bottled water deliveries for weeks. You couldn't make it up. :vsad:
    The installed 'automatic chlorine dosers' which used to go in the huff occasionally, rendering the water undrinkable - cue more bottled water...... Eventually it all seems to work OK, but in no way tastes as good as before. :mad:
     
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  16. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
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  17. DAPPH

    DAPPH Member

    Messages:
    1,797
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB

    :waving: Wanna buy a steam activated charcoal element with ultra violet light filtering system to remove 99.9% of all contaminants from your drinking water . ( You can't store the filtered water for more than 2 days in the fridge ) ? :laughing:
     
  18. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,434
    uk
    And your clothes and washing machine go mouldy without the chlorine!
     
  19. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    A future project looms
    1008778646.jpg
     
    galooph likes this.
  20. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    Thanks for the detailed instructions Daphh and my apologies for not replying sooner.

    I did have the rad flushed and they said it was all good. I put a new thermostat in and the bits of the water ways that I could see looked fairly good too. The core of the rad was what they described as 'soft'. The fins bend very easily and although I spent a while unbending them as you describe there a still a lot of bent areas. I may just bite the bullet and pull it out this winter and get it re-cored with something more modern. My brother-in-law who as done most of the driving so far found that opening the side flaps on long climbs made a lot of difference.

    It still uses a certain amount of water, probably a pint a day and we're puzzled where it is going. Also, one of the hoses collapses when the engine cools, suggesting that there is air present. Do you have any clever tricks for bleeding the heater matrix?
     
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