Misterg
Member
- Messages
- 1,415
- Location
- North Wales
If it’s the diesel (2.3 litre?) it’ll need bigger than that (probably something with ~800 CCA or more).
- Thread starter TheBrick
- Start date
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,801
- Location
- Cambridge
Can you remove the cell caps ? If so try cranking the engine over and watch the cells, if you have bubbling in one the cell is shorting out The same principle can be applied when using a high rate discharge tester
Ok good tip thanks
Yep diesel 2.5 I believe but you have me doubting myself now.
I've got some ball park figures to go off. Battery box is pretty big
Misterg
Member
- Messages
- 1,415
- Location
- North Wales
Could possibly have been made for two 6V batteries originally.
Me thinks starter is not good.
New battery and same issue.
Took off starter and bench tested. 7.1ohms. seems high to me but I can't find a good number for expected coil resistance. Seems high to me.
12v/7.1ohm ~ 1.6I which seems like a very low start up current for a DC motor.
New battery and same issue.
Took off starter and bench tested. 7.1ohms. seems high to me but I can't find a good number for expected coil resistance. Seems high to me.
12v/7.1ohm ~ 1.6I which seems like a very low start up current for a DC motor.
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 7,891
- Location
- Sussex
Its a brushed motor and the resistance will change as it spins on the commutator. Probably worth dissasembling, checking the bearings, brushes and cleaning the commutator with some fine grit paper.
Battery, if you want a measure of the old one, digiital LIPO chargers are a good tool, they will tell you how much charge goes in, then you can discharge and tells you how much comes out, repeat. If theres a very big difference, or low capacity, it will be scrap.
Starter batteries are always massively over specced as they degrade over time, so one with a quater of original capacity should still start an engine.
You may find a portable jump start pack useful.
Battery, if you want a measure of the old one, digiital LIPO chargers are a good tool, they will tell you how much charge goes in, then you can discharge and tells you how much comes out, repeat. If theres a very big difference, or low capacity, it will be scrap.
Starter batteries are always massively over specced as they degrade over time, so one with a quater of original capacity should still start an engine.
You may find a portable jump start pack useful.
plewlandsbob
Member
- Messages
- 426
- Location
- Morayshire, Scotland
Here is the section on , starter, from the workshop manual. Start on next post, at bottom pic and it should be in order.
plewlandsbob
Member
- Messages
- 426
- Location
- Morayshire, Scotland
Rest of pics
plewlandsbob
Member
- Messages
- 426
- Location
- Morayshire, Scotland
The remote solenoid, is located between , fuel tank and bellhousing. Be wary of cheap ones off internet. I bought one but it was rubbish. If you look for one for an old mini , etc it will do the job.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 13,074
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
You've probably got 6.5 of your 7.3 ohms resistance due to the black crocodile clip being attached to the vice handle!
Take it off there and connect it directly to the motor casing.
Make no difference. I always check several places but that was easiest for photo.
Thanks, I will take a good look though that. Thanks for taking the time to photo all of that.
Full disassembled today. Cleaned off, very mucky inside. Consistent resistance around rotor, open circuit from rotor to case so I think rotor is good. Short from +ve terminal to to case, so short somewhere in field windings to case. I think I have my tests correct...
Yeah I got that initial reading wrong. I took the motor completely apart so I could measure stator and rotary separately clean everything up etc. it turned out there was a direct short to ground on the stator somewhere.
New starter arrived yesterday, managed a window of time to get it fitted to day and the engine has never spun round faster!
Managed to nearly get stuck in mud while playing testing like a idiot.
New starter arrived yesterday, managed a window of time to get it fitted to day and the engine has never spun round faster!
Managed to nearly get stuck in mud while playing testing like a idiot.
Jack_K
Member
- Messages
- 480
- Location
- Australia
For future use:
9.6v is the generally specified minimum cranking voltage.
If you have a clamp meter which can read DC amps, measure the starter current when fitted to the engine. Depending on if it's low or high it gives a different cause. Measuring it outside of the engine is also of use.
9.6v is the generally specified minimum cranking voltage.
If you have a clamp meter which can read DC amps, measure the starter current when fitted to the engine. Depending on if it's low or high it gives a different cause. Measuring it outside of the engine is also of use.
