Back to making holes instead of welds...!

[Noods]

Hi All...

Ok I've just done the spot test exactly as Pauls link suggests identical settings etc..

I've added photos to show the results..

The steel was cleaned via a flap wheel and then cleaned via acetone..

Spot tests as per link.. @60amps

Below.,Next.. Short beads again as per link settings 1.6 mm tungsten..no filler rod.. Gas same @6
amps 60...

The upper right 2 beads = settings as described above but with a 5mm stick out.. No filler..

The third one down.. Now with er70S rod and 2mm stick out.. Gas @6 amps now at 90amps..

Bottom bead was with a 5 mm stick out Gas @ 6 and 90amps with er70s rod..

Both wobbly but as tight to the work as I could go!

Above my tig torch set up.. With Sif ER70S rod supplied by Elmdale ..no 7 ceramic..

Pure Tungsten fired and pea shooter attached showing gas reading at torch head.. Reg was set to a flow of 6..

Last pic..

Same settings again 6 for the gas.. 90amps and 5 mm stick out.. Same rod..

Torch set with 5mm stick out..

One thing I did notice was my tungsten although I didn't stick it! Soon got cruddy at 2mm setting.. At 5 mm it stayed cleaner..

Was going to show my technique via video, unfortunately only got one helmet so couldn't cut out the UV on the camera..

Any questions... Fire away..
X Noods

 

[Richard.]

Bit of brown soot round the beads. Could be shielding, could be arc length, could be torch angle.
Dunno mate the runs look pretty clean themselves.

 

[ukracer]

Not what I was expecting. They look reasonable enough to me..

 

[Paul.]

Bit of brown soot round the beads. Could be shielding, could be arc length, could be torch angle.
Dunno mate the runs look pretty clean themselves.

I think it pretty much rules out any serious issues with the machine though, my guess is its down to technique, and I think that will only be overcome with some one to one tuition.
Pity you are not closer noods I would have you sorted very quickly.

 

[Richard.]

I think it pretty much rules out any serious issues with the machine though, my guess is its down to technique, and I think that will only be overcome with some one to one tuition.
Pity you are not closer noods I would have you sorted very quickly.

I agree totally Paul. The tiny amount of sooting in one of those photos is more likely down to a bit of bad driving and I wouldn't worry too much certainly from a machine POV. Porosity though as you said you were getting in other posts he'll need to watch as that is Usually down to inadequate shielding noods.
Yes some tuition would solve all his problems quickly!!!!

 

[Noods]

I'm sure you guys are correct.. My technique is not good enough! Especially when I try to weld in corner joints.. ( which I need to do badly)

One thing I would like to ask though if I may.. On the pic with the little beads with filler rod.. Why is it the 2mm stick out you get an undercut effect but at 5mm it's nearly acceptable..?

Also if you have only a small amount of stick out, you keep it as tight as poss to the work and you only tilt your torch say 10 degrees from vertical how are you supposed to get rod to the puddle? Yet everywhere I seem to read they tell you to keep a min stick out.. ?

 

[Noods]

What gas are you using from whom?

Pure Argon from Elmdale Welding supplies in Hadleigh Suffolk..

 

[Richard.]

I'm sure you guys are correct.. My technique is not good enough! Especially when I try to weld in corner joints.. ( which I need to do badly)

One thing I would like to ask though if I may.. On the pic with the little beads with filler rod.. Why is it the 2mm stick out you get an undercut effect but at 5mm it's nearly acceptable..?

Also if you have only a small amount of stick out, you keep it as tight as poss to the work and you only tilt your torch say 10 degrees from vertical how are you supposed to get rod to the puddle? Yet everywhere I seem to read they tell you to keep a min stick out.. ?

Your confusing arc length with length of tungsten exiting the cup.
For general flat butt joints I might have 5mm of the point protruding the cup. An out side corner I'm almost flush. 2-3 mm max because you lose shield easy on that joint so the closer the better. Inside corner you can really stick it out so you can see and the design makes a nice gas trap so risk is less for going longer. 10mm is perfectly acceptable and maybe more if needed. Arc length should ALWAYS be tight. 2mm at the most for dc (distance from tip to pool).

 

[addjunkie]

A question, are you standing, sitting fore arms resting on the bench!

Just when i first learnt tig i really struggled, then sat down rested my forearms on the edge of my bench and started to get a better flow, much less random weld profile.

 

[Richard.]

A question, are you standing, sitting fore arms resting on the bench!

Just when i first learnt tig i really struggled, then sat down rested my forearms on the edge of my bench and started to get a better flow, much less random weld profile.

Comfort helps a lot in the beginning.

 

[Paul.]

One thing I would like to ask though if I may.. On the pic with the little beads with filler rod.. Why is it the 2mm stick out you get an undercut effect but at 5mm it's nearly acceptable..?

If you really do have only 2mm tungsten stickout then that is one of your problems, you will not be able to keep the arc tight enough when the torch is sloped back, the arc is cone shaped with the point of the cone at the point of the electrode, so the bigger the arc gap is the wider the arc will be at the pool, this is what is causing the undercut, also the cup will likely be obscuring your view of the pool, with a 7 ceramic set the stickout to around 6mm, its well illustrated in the tutorials, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tig-setup.htm

 

[ukracer]

If you really do have only 2mm tungsten stickout then that is one of your problems, you will not be able to keep the arc tight enough when the torch is sloped back, the arc is cone shaped with the point of the cone at the point of the electrode, so the bigger the arc gap is the wider the arc will be at the pool, this is what is causing the undercut, also the cup will likely be obscuring your view of the pool, with a 7 ceramic set the stickout to around 6mm, its well illustrated in the tutorials, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tig-setup.htm

Not that I have had time to get my Tig out recently but I have to admit to thinking less stick out was preferable. I think I can see why Noods is having problems. Richard seems to have answered any questions I would have had.

Perhaps it will help noods a lot now its pretty certain its not the machines at fault.

 

[Richard.]

If nothing else from a visual POV having the tungsten that far up makes a difficult life.
Like I say outside corners I prefer to be cup lower down if I remember to do it because the nature of that joint allows for access and visablity so I can easily see and maintain arc length. It's the openness of that joint that makes it so easy to lose shielding especially if a little draft comes about. other wise Flat position 5-6 mm as Paul said is spot on.

 

[Noods]

A question, are you standing, sitting fore arms resting on the bench!

Just when i first learnt tig i really struggled, then sat down rested my forearms on the edge of my bench and started to get a better flow, much less random weld profile.

Hi mTe ..
I normally stand, although have laid on the floor when needed to for some projects .. I do have a stool so I should use it I guess..

 

[Noods]

Not that I have had time to get my Tig out recently but I have to admit to thinking less stick out was preferable. I think I can see why Noobs is having problems. Richard seems to have answered any questions I would have had.

Perhaps it will help noobs a lot now its pretty certain its not the machines at fault.

Agree entirely apart from being called Noobs... Sounds like I have boobs! X

 

[Noods]

I just wanted to say a huge thank to one and all for all your support, encouragement and advice regarding my tig issues of late, it's really good to know that there are people out there willing to give up their valuable time and help those who may be struggling, be it in tig, or in perhaps other things..

I can only say for me personally it has truly lifted me and given belief of brighter days to come..

On the tig front.....
Stick out, post gas, 1.6mm rods and arc length have already made such an enormous difference, obviously I've a long way to go, but, I'm willing and trying to take it step by step and not to expect too much from both myself and my little buddy ( esab)

But most of all it's been the endless encouragement from you guys, this and this alone has given me desire and motivation on more than just one front..

Thank you thank you thank you.... One and all..

X NOöDS

 

[dobbslc]

Noods you're into bikes right? do you have a bike bench like a hydraulic one?
I use mine with a stool and put a bit of flat plate steel on it to protect it.
Not perfect but much better than standing.

 

[Noods]

Noods you're into bikes right? do you have a bike bench like a hydraulic one?
I use mine with a stool and put a bit of flat plate steel on it to protect it.
Not perfect but much better than standing.

Oh no... You've got me thinking now... For my beloved's I've got a German built lifting device where you locate it on a pin and with one hand you can lift it up... On the tig front I've also found a way of holding the torch which gives me so much better control, this and the other things mentioned have made such a difference.. A table I could raise and lower would be great though..... I'm on it! X NOöDS