Wozz and Snoop are spot on NO GAS.......i read you are short on time ,but check ChrisB thread first welds ,a lot of the advice given to him would apply to you as well,best of luck
When practicing different power settings i saw a yellow, blue sort of flume, but when doing the car i did not see that.
Anyone know what the last power setting is after number four, the one with what looks like a pic of a triangle with stairs on the left of it ?
I did have a quick read on ChrisB thread ill have another look. There was gas but when i looked at the gas setting at one point to make sure i did not turn it down to much, it was near the very bottom which would explain that practice result.
Most of my new welds look almost the same as Snoopers first pic just not as clean.
There is 5, the numbers go to 4 then it turns another turn to a pic of the stairs going from left to right upwards, then the welder was more powerfull and welding thicker stuff. Click the old photobucket pic and see the welder you will see what i mean.
the picture of the staris simply shows you that the power slopes upwards and there is only 4 power settings even the manual states that.
some power switches turn all the way round just repeating the the 1 to 4 settings
Position 5 is 'gas test' according to the manual. It cuts power to the wire feed and transformer but energises the gas solenoid. You should NOT be able to weld with the knob in that position.
Did you set the gas with the trigger pulled?.......gauge reading can increase when not being "called" for ...either turn wirefeed right down and test or aim in a safe direction where the wire won't touch the return and check gas ....you should be able to hear the gas flowing as well.......
Check the voltage knob is on correctly as the indicator isn't pointing directly at the voltage number in that photo so may have been pulled off at some point. You said the feed rollers didn't move on position 1 which could in fact be position 5 which would make position 5 actually position 4.
It's possible that the grubscrew for the power knob is loose and the knob has turned on the shaft, so the marked positions no longer line up with the pointer. All hire shop equipment takes a beating from the users! But with only 4 real power settings, it should be easy enough with testing to set it to the highest actual power.
Not sure if it applies to this one, but the Migatronic Automig that I used in night class increased the wire speed itself at the higher power settings. I guess that's what the "Auto" means. I found it annoying and hard to use.
If the existing strut turrets are 4mm ( ! ) thick at the top, adding these 6mm pancakes on top seems very OTT. Without a strut brace, it is just a cosmetic addition, and I cannot see it improving general chassis rigidity.
No it will have a welded trut brace and becasue its a 205 anything that strengthens the chassis is a good idea. People may think its over the top but when it comes to chassis strength its a popular mod for 205's, especially for rally, motorsport drivers.
I checked the switch and it does only go on one way and starts at number one to the last bit that is suppose to be the gas check, it then wont turn round that way anymore. I have tried to move the nob more with effort but it stayed the same so it seems strong enough to not of ever moved tbh.
Your right this mig is very annoying to use but im getting there with practice etc.
Get a piece of steel, run a bead on setting 1, then one next to it on 2, again on 3, 4 and 5 and post a pic. As Eddie says, it'll be easy to see the difference in the welds and ought to teach you a bit about setting the machine up properly too.
I do seem to recall a thread on here ages ago about the auto wire speed, I have a feeling that pot is for fine-tuning. I'll see if I can find it.
I'm quite surprised you're tackling the car before learning how to weld tbh, I wouldn't trust most of those repairs you've shown us to be strong enough and without a doubt some will fail.
Why not, i have checked penetration, checked the strength of the weld with hammer and chisle and still they did not move. Could they loose srtrength over time ?
I know i should have practised more but i dont have much time, there is loads to do, the welds are not exactley renfoced plates. The welds i did forst on the bulk head i have ground down neatly and its solid and has penetration.
I will do those welds later on. The thing is number one dont feed wire nor does the rollers move, no matter how much higher i set the wire speed at. Still ill have another go later on.