Anvil from a forklift tine

[Shedendman]

I agree keep the curve you will find it useful ,also as posted "Iforge iron" is a very good forum I use it all the time when i'm not on here.
You need the mass so when you hit the hot iron you don't loose all the force of the blow.
Most anvils do not have sharp edges google anvil radius, might be useful?.

Thanks will do

 

[Farside]

I'd keep the curve, for sure. That's the kind of thing you'll wish you had, sometime, and a pita to add one on.
This forklift tine idea gives me a notion...

 

[Hitch]

7018 will weld the material just fine, and just for the record - ive never had to weld the end 1" of a fork back on because I cut the end off with a PUG cutter , honest.

Know that one, one of ours did it to the sideloader forks

 

[Shedendman]

So far just a little update as ones been waiting for his sticks(super6 7018 4mm) to arrive,these ok,if not tuff its all i can afford ATM

Right while i had time thought i'd clean it even further make it shiny etc and squared off that curve a little if that makes sence

then thought why not do a hardy hole,or hardie as i've been told the correct spelling is,whatever
Now remember this is tough stuff,i started out with a 4mm bit then 6,9,11 then the last one was 13mm,took bloody ages,funny thing is although it cut rather well enough there seemed to be a real hard spot half way through,dont know why,the 13mm was screaming,yes i was using lube.
After that i had two options,file it square all to 19mm/3/4'' or attack it with the plasma,plasma one sod filing that lot out,lol
Then took the router with a carbine bit to help clean what i could,trust me i've got some good bastard cut files but even those make it hard work



Ok its not pretty but it'll do for now,when i get some bored nothing to do time i'll file it out more

This it going to be the final join of the two main pieces i done away with the horn idea perhaps maybe another time i could stick one on


Ready for welding,but i have a few question to ask you clever lot out there.

Got my E7018 4mm rods,could i do a few tacks with the mig 1st(0.8 wire) or shall i tack it with 7018's?
Pre heat,do i or dont i?
The only pre heat i can managed is the propane you see in the back ground,i was thinking of giving it a blast for 10 mins or so,yes/no?
Now my TecArc 166i goes at full wack to 170amp,i was thinking more 140amp,again,yes/no?
would one stringer each side be enough or should i do 3 layers each side,i guessing 3 yes/no?
Now i've never burnt 7018's before only 6013's from what i've read and seen theres not much difference technique wise,if i can just keep my hand steady i think i'll be alright,lol
We'll see tomorrow

 

[Bill Edwards]

What amperage is your MIG? Assuming it's a 'hobby' size, any tacks you do will be cold and will have zero penetration. So use it by all means, but not where you will weld properly. E.g, tack the ends, weld it, then grind off the tacks to weld the last bit. Don't just weld over them.

Preheat may not be necessary, but probably won't hurt, even if all you do is take the chill off to the point where you wouldn't want to hold it.

4mm rods - they can all vary, but I'd be thinking around 160a as a minimum. To be honest, i'd probably crank your machine right up to 170 and see how it goes.

As to how many runs to put on I'm not clear on how this is going to end up. Shouldn't hurt though.

 

[Shedendman]

Thanks Bill my mig wacks up to 180amp the only reason i said use mig was strictly just for tacking only distortion and movement.
yes indeed i know the grind these tacks out and not weld over them
How its going to end up,well lets see tomorrow when i attack it

 

[Maker]

Preheat sounds like a good idea, it certainly won't hurt (Unless you touch it). Weld each side, then check it for square and run the next weld such that it'll pull it into square. Get loads of passes on each side, it'll make it more solid and it's all good practice.

 

[Shedendman]

Right,here we go,got it squared up and tacked the best i could,reason i say that is theres a slight bow in the base,you'll see later.
Before i start,may i remind you all this is the 1st time i've use 7018's also i've never welded such a big lump of steel like this before,so call it a learning curve for me,
i could throw you all a dozen excuses about the good and bad points about the welding,but i'd rather let you lot point them out,no doubt you will,of course they're very much welcomed,i can take it,lol
Ok the 1st runs


now the other side

Oh may i add the tool for this project is a tecarc mma 166i run at 160amps(roughly) from a 13amp plug,i love this little machine,not once did it miss a beat

I done 3 runs on each side well 4 on one because i felt it didnt look good enough
I'm just going to run all the photos as i cant remember the order

opps

erm i noticed this,like whats happening here then?


that looks YUK,oh well crack on

 

[Shedendman]

Erm just like to pass some little tips to those that are new to this stuff and those who might relate this
1 check where you leads are esp on the rod holder one and dont do what i did while doing the run you haven't got your bloody size 11's standing on it
2 its helpful if you dont have the sun beaming down behind you as when it pops out from the cloud and shine behind your mask you cant see sod all
3 although you might be wearing flame retardant overalls resting you arm on your hot work wont stop the fact its gonna getting damn hot while your welding,ouch

thing i liked alot about these 7018's was the way the slag just pealed away so easy to remove

the final runs


i'm happy with it,as i said before theres a slight bow in the base,but its near on square

so far so good


Now i need some way to fix this to a base,hopefully to a big lump of timber block,so some fixings will need to be added,out comes some scrap angle 50x50x6mm
12mm holes drilled for some massive coach screws
using the same rods same amps



Thats it,that'll do me,i'm happy with it,all solid,passed the knock the crap out of it with the BFH,all in all i'm very pleased indeed
Oh i see someone on another thread said summit about re striking these rods,i didnt have this problem to much as the hot start on the welder took care of thatwhen it didnt i just crushed the end with my gloved fingers

Well i hope you all like it,feel free to pull or praise it apart,lol
Next step is to sort out a base
Watch this space

 

[brightspark]

View attachment 68422
Erm just like to pass some little tips to those that are new to this stuff and those who might relate this
1 check where you leads are esp on the rod holder one and dont do what i did while doing the run you haven't got your bloody size 11's standing on it
2 its helpful if you dont have the sun beaming down behind you as when it pops out from the cloud and shine behind your mask you cant see sod all
3 although you might be wearing flame retardant overalls resting you arm on your hot work wont stop the fact its gonna getting damn hot while your welding,ouch
View attachment 68423
thing i liked alot about these 7018's was the way the slag just pealed away so easy to remove
View attachment 68424
the final runs
View attachment 68425
View attachment 68426
i'm happy with it,as i said before theres a slight bow in the base,but its near on square
View attachment 68427
so far so good
View attachment 68428

Now i need some way to fix this to a base,hopefully to a big lump of timber block,so some fixings will need to be added,out comes some scrap angle 50x50x6mm
12mm holes drilled for some massive coach screws
using the same rods same amps
View attachment 68429
View attachment 68430 View attachment 68431

Thats it,that'll do me,i'm happy with it,all solid,passed the knock the crap out of it with the BFH,all in all i'm very pleased indeed
Oh i see someone on another thread said summit about re striking these rods,i didnt have this problem to much as the hot start on the welder took care of thatwhen it didnt i just crushed the end with my gloved fingers

Well i hope you all like it,feel free to pull or praise it apart,lol
Next step is to sort out a base
Watch this space

very nice get a piece of tree trunk to fasten it to

 

[Shox Dr]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but there's a ruddy gret crack in one of those welds

 

[Shedendman]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but there's a ruddy gret crack in one of those welds

Thanks I know,why i dont know ,think it was on the 2nd run,was hoping one of you lot would tell me,to late now as i went over it with 2 more runs,remember this isn't structural its solid if it fails the amout of banging its going to take i'll be back with cap in hand

 

[brightspark]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but there's a ruddy gret crack in one of those welds

its not a nuclear reactor

 

[Shox Dr]

its not a nuclear reactor

Care to explain how a weld with a crack down the entire length, is of any use.

 

[Shedendman]

It wasn't down the whole length Shox was around the middle and about 100mm long,nevertheless,i'd be more interested on how/why it happened

 

[Shox Dr]

Cooled too fast.

 

[Shedendman]

Cooled too fast.

AHHHHHHHH,got ya,cheers for that
Noted

 

[Maker]

Care to explain how a weld with a crack down the entire length, is of any use.

"Modern art"

 

[Gareth J]

Nice, been on the look out for an anvil for a while. Now I can keep my eye open for a fork lift tine too! The electricity board replaced our main 3phase poles here recently and the bottom 2ft of the one they left for me will be a great base.

Let is know how it feels to work or if it starts to part. I wonder if there is too much overhang on the sides? Difficult one as if you go full width underneath with another slab of tine, you have no way of welding in the middle... No idea which would be preferable!

PS, I have one of those 160 inverters and it's great. I'd like an oil cooled stick Welder but with this one, I can't justify the space (or weight!)

 

[Bill Edwards]

That crack...
You'll have to wait and see I think.
Generally I'd say that when you see something like that you need to use different rods - i.e dissimilar - but it seems that the subsequent welds haven't cracked, so maybe it's OK.