AE86 booter project

  1. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    View attachment 242808

    ...there, doesn't look too bad, does it? Now if only I'd left it like that and welded it in
     
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    nickk likes this.
  2. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    ....but no, I had to go exploring and found that once I peeled back the inner sill, it was rotten on the inside and had cracked. Further investigation into the previous repairers patchwork on the front pocket revealed it was a lap-welded patch leaving the old corroded metal inside in the dark

    So I've made up 4 repair panels so far and am yet to fit any of them. I'm sure it's obvious to the trained eye that I'm just learning as I go along, but if I can at least improve on the work that's been done before, I'll be happy.

    Meantime, I've sourced a 6 point bolt-in cage and 2 unbranded bucket recliners that need tidying, all fairly cheap. I've also been looking into bracing, seam welding and frame rail extenders, as I'd like to add as much bang for buck as possible.

    Has anyone any advice as regards seam-welding and roll cage for stiffness? I'm considering making up a frame from rsj and fit to the trolley so as I can clamp the shell to something solid and true to counteract heat distortion....I don't want to risk driving along with only 3 wheels on the road at any one time
     
  3. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    IMG_20200722_000937.jpg
     
  4. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    :waving:
     
  5. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    Ok, so if anyone is reading this.....it would appear that the nearside chassis rail has been replaced, right back to the firewall :doh:

    ...so, although it appears to be a good solid weld, it now sits 5mm higher than the offside.....I checked by marking the centre vertical line and shining a laser cross hairs on it and measuring up to it from the subframe bolt-holes on each side.

    Not to be disheartened, I'm looking into methods of straightening it. As I see it my options are:
    1. Scrap it
    2. Stick spacers between that side and the subframe and track-car it
    3. Put an rsj under it, fixing it to the rear suspension mounts, use a pivot under the firewall and ratchet straps around the offending rail and the rsj and squeeze...
    4. Build chassis jig fastening key structural areas of the chassis while all repairs (foot well, front pocket, rear nearside wheelarch/sill area) and stitch welding is completed. ....any thoughts???
     
  6. atomant48

    atomant48 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    923
    Location:
    Salisbury, UK
    I am reading this... not sure I can advise what todo with the rail though. 5mm doesn’t sound a huge amount to me but I don’t know what the tolerances are. Is the rail bent or welded on in the wrong place? How much of the inner wing and rad support etc come with it?
     
    Myles1970 likes this.
  7. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    2,483
    Location:
    Devon UK
    At 5mm you should be able to see where the issue is.

    Whether the whole lot has been put in too high or if the angle they joined it on was slightly off.

    I wouldn't give up on a car just because it's slightly twisted.

    Why not try to unpick the chassis rail and reuse the panels but in the correct location.
    Would look at making a square and level frame and get some decent drop measurements from it.
     
    Myles1970 and stuvy like this.
  8. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    It looks straight to me... As in I can't see an obvious buckle, the original inner wing remains. The radiator support has been changed, but they're known for being flimsy and weak; apparently when jacked up under the chassis rail on either side, the other side lags behind as is referred to in the following https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=DjFEVgwkxd8

    I'd been considering something like this: https://group-d.ie/collections/ae86...cts/competition-front-lower-panel-crossmember.
    ... by either making one out of 40x80mm box, or by just adding a pipe forward of the existing road support
     
  9. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    - yes, I am considering that, it's just the thoughts of unpicking plug-welds. But I guess if I can build a frame that's true and square, I'm off to a good start
     
  10. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    .... having thought about your question Ruffian, im guessing if it was bent through external forces it should be bent back by force, straightening any distortion caused...but if it was welded out of line, it should be undone and adjusted/welded correctly - perhaps while braced to a jig/frame? ie. Correct the mistake as opposed to introducing possibly a different mistake.....:welder:
     
    Ruffian likes this.
  11. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    2,483
    Location:
    Devon UK
    If the whole leg is 5mm up then it's quite impressive at damage as if even jacked on the rad support would have thought it would have flexed and bent rather than shifted.

    If you try and straighten a part which is in the wrong place you could pull the bulkhead and inner wing out of alignments also.

    I would be double and triple checking measurements before anything else though.
    Making a chassis jig would be a good option even for just getting the body up to a nice working height and a constant level to work to.
     
    Myles1970 likes this.
  12. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    I hear ya, I had built a rotisserie but since that fixes to the chassis rails it doesn't really help in this situation :laughing:
    At the moment the shell is resting on my homemade body trolley which leaves it about 18" off the floor...would you think 40x80mm box would be substantial enough or would I-beam be best in case some "adjusting" or persuasion is required?

    A bit of a baptism of (f)ire for me :o:D
     
  13. anto Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    899
    Location:
    Ireland
    Look forward to seeing this progress. Love a good tincan!

    Have you been following the Juicebox lads on Yuotube?
    They found a twincam in a field and are rebuilding it. Serious amount of welding in it!
     
  14. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    Yeah, I've been enjoying that too....4 days welding turned into 2 and a half years lol
     
    anto likes this.
  15. zx9

    zx9 Member

    Messages:
    4,094
    Location:
    South East London
    Interesting project, I learned to drive in the previous model Corolla to that one at the time they were a very nice car. Over the years my dad had several Corollas and a Yaris but went back to Corollas his last was a E110 three door which I now have garaged whilst I think what to do with it. WRC replica anyone? :)
     
    stuvy likes this.
  16. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    The SR Coupe? that was my 1st car... £350 and a years mot, had it's fair share of rot though but it was comfortable, nippy(:D) and got me on the road.
    Keep us posted on the e110... how about the Flexus on here for some ideas?!?!
     
    stuvy likes this.
  17. zx9

    zx9 Member

    Messages:
    4,094
    Location:
    South East London
    I don't have the ability / skill or space needed to do anything close to the Flexus :( It is a very clean low mileage car so would make a good starting point for a rally rep, it would be almost like working with a new shell.
    Realistically I should just move it on and let someone go shopping with it or learn to drive in it as was the fate of 99.99% of Toyota Corollas.
     
  18. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    2,483
    Location:
    Devon UK
    The last chassis frame we made I think was 100x 60 x 6mm or something.

    Was proper weighty but had wheels on one end and jacking point on the other for trolley jack.

    But then had wind down feet to lock it in position and level the frame.
     
    Myles1970 likes this.
  19. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
    So....upon further investigation, the nearside chassis rail extends from a point on the bulkhead 7mm lower than the offside, to a point 2mm higher where the bumper bracket is mounted. One of the subframe bolt-holes is bang-on level with it's opposite ... so off it comes. Something for me to be getting on with on my next day off
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    Pic shows where the leg was welded to the base of the strut tower...
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    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  20. Myles1970

    Myles1970 Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Monaghan, Ireland
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    ......the outrigger, someone perhaps lost all enthusiasm part way through reinstallation?
    I've noticed that the chassis leg has been cut and welded, possibly that's where the error is... I'll have to check for evidence of the whole piece having been removed or this piece welded on in position
     
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