1999 Tacoma-rust repair...fixing bodges!

  1. Spot the welders dog

    Spot the welders dog Member

    Messages:
    498
    Location:
    smoggy town
    Are you still using 'flux core'? Impressive, always nice to see some honest DIY welding!
     
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  2. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    Yes, still using flux core. If the metal is sound, I do much better!...still learning tons of stuff every time I weld...at least when I look back a week or so.....

    thanks Spot!

    JP
     
  3. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    So I tried out the new sandblaster today...I found a window of opportunity in the weather and did get the rest of the underbody done....Moving the bed outside was pleasant enough, but rather than lower the bed onto the dolly and risking having it scoot out from under, I brought the dolly up to the bed and attached it with some screws, THEN, lowered the whole thing down onto the wheels. it was rather uneventful after that! (funny the solutions you come up with when having to work alone...though SWMBO did come out to help getting the dolly in place the first time)

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    The blasting went very well, but good god does that stuff get EVERYWHERE. proper clothing is an absolute must. respirator, hood, as many goggles as you have available, ear protection, gloves, ect.

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    It does a very complete job. What I would change for next time? turn the bed around and have the sun at your back. visibility under all that clothing and goggles was frustrating. the hood provided with the unit fogged up in no time and was basically useless after that. Even though the compressor I had was quite big with a big tank, it was no match for the blaster.

    I may have a solution for this. get smaller nozzles and try them out so that Less volume comes out. This means a smaller blasting pattern...but what I had bought, though much better quality than the nozzle that came with it, was a bit big. I think a smaller nozzle would solve a couple of issues.

    This pic shows the bracket under the fender half way done so you can see the difference.

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    and the scene of the crime. I would have taken more pics, but was just covered in media dust and honestly just wanted to get it done!. standing back and looking at the overall result was quite satisfying.

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    Was it worth it? in short, yes. a good result. was it a chore? yup...it was!

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
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  4. james butler

    james butler Member

    Messages:
    1,243
    Location:
    birmingham england
    change the lever for a ball valve then you wont have to keep holding it down getting cramp in your hands :-)
     
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  5. Tonka Man New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Sharon CT USA
    So....I would like to thank my friend and Hero JP for doing ALL of the beautiful work to my Tonka.
    I have owned this truck for over 13 years. It has never let me down. A few years back I had a body shop do some work and boy was that work shoddy!

    JP took the time to patiently undo all the bad fixes and make the truck right again.

    JP ....Thanks....You are the man!!!!
     
  6. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    Thanks, Tonka Man! I appreciate that!

    James, Will the ball valve style allow me to regulate the blast pattern, or is that all done with nozzles? My issue was air delivery, and a big commercial compressor is not in the budget!

    More progress today...I rust treated the bottom of the bed and let it sit all day. Its in areas like this one that I am thankful I had the blaster.

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    and, inspired by a real pro over at Retrorides who makes most of his repairs look factory, I stippled the seam sealer to mimic what Toyota had done originally. I think it looks good, and painted looks great...very happy

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    Inner fender wells got a wider application of sealer than factory as the inner fender shield just does not overlap it enough and rubbed through the paint over time, causing some of the rust up there.

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    Heres the whole bed rust treated, awaiting the top coat.....

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    and finally, the money shot...a freshly painted satin black bed floor...its been a long time coming!

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    I still am planning on a couple of coats of bedliner material (spray on) and then two coats of undercoating (rubberized)

    I can count the things left to do on this project with one hand!


    thanks for looking

    JP
     
  7. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,243
    Location:
    Southampton England
    does the rubberised coating not eventually crack and hold water though ??
     
  8. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    The stuff Im using, and how Im applying it, will wear out before it cracks. I do not put it on too thick. I also have 3 other products below it, so hopefully it will be good to go...

    Cavity wax goes on over everything too.....especially where the cross members meet the bed floor and up in the fender wells above the dust shields.

    it might be overkill, but is there such a thing?

    JP
     
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  9. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    The To Do list is getting shorter and shorter....

    Today I checked off 3 items.

    -Heat shield brackets welded in and heat shield drilled and painted
    -Lower rear fender arch repair welded in and flatted back, ready for body work
    -Inner fender area rust treated above the repair areas
    -outer fender arch patch trimmed and fitted, ready for welding.

    Okay, thats 4 things....

    heres the heat shield brackets welded in and painted

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    and the lower fender arch patch welded in....

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    and smoothed out a bit

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    and the fender arch repair panel fitted ready for welding....

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    Finally, the inner floor patch towards the front of inner fender welded in with no more pin holes...its also welded both sides. It will get cleaned up, seam sealed treated, ect...

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    So all in all, not bad...

    whats left?

    Here is the final list for 2019!

    -weld in DS fender arch repair panel
    -position and weld fuel filler brackets
    -position and weld inner to outer fender arch /fender liner brackets
    -Drill and mount rear mud guard brackets to new lower rear patches
    -install hub caps
    -tighten new shiny chrome lug nuts
    -attach heat shield
    -Undercoat bed with rubberized material and cavity wax
    -reinstall bed to chassis!
    -apply first skim coat of glass fiber reinforced filler, smooth and prime
    -take truck to body shop for final prep and paint!


    thanks for looking!

    JP
     
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  10. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    Okay, more progress today...

    from the list:

    -weld in DS fender arch repair panel
    -position and weld fuel filler brackets
    -position and weld inner to outer fender arch /fender liner brackets
    -Drill and mount rear mud guard brackets to new lower rear patches
    -install hub caps
    -tighten new shiny chrome lug nuts
    -attach heat shield
    -Undercoat bed with rubberized material and cavity wax
    -reinstall bed to chassis!
    -apply first skim coat of glass fiber reinforced filler, smooth and prime
    -take truck to body shop for final prep and paint!

    Only two items checked off, but there are 4 brackets in the fuel filler area and everything needed rust converting, painting, seam sealing and top coating.....

    That arch repair panel took a good chunk of the afternoon, and I knew it would , so left plenty of time.....

    The first bracket went on the inside of the repair patch, well actually, the first two brackets. these two were welded together, but first the whole assembly needed several dry fits so that I could be sure it all fit against the inner fender bracket. Sorry, its hard to see here. Bolts were cut to size, then nuts and lock washers added and mounted to the panel.

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    Then the inner fender bracket could be located on the inner fender. This is the bracket I had to make several weeks ago!

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    That was treated to paint and seam seal

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    The repair patch was set in place with clamps and holders. I took this opportunity to bolt the two brackets together. This also helped reinforce the repair panel for welding.

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    And finally, the last big section to weld back to the truck...here it is buzzed in but not cleaned up yet. I do have a couple of spots of minor distortion, but should be able to tap them out....

    [​IMG]

    And under the floor patch, I added some seam sealer

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    Once I get the inner fender to outer fender brackets welded in place tomorrow, I can get the bed back in place!

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
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  11. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    Where is that list? Nothing to check off but I did get some figuring done regarding the inner fender shields and inner brackets.

    I decided to redesign the cross pieces. Using what I learned from making the heat shield brackets, I turned the edges up on either side of the cross pieces and this strengthened them quite a bit. very happy with the result.

    You can see the 4 pieces that will make up the 2 brackets. I will weld the bracket to the inner fender and have decided to bolt the other end to the fender arch return lip. The edge of the bracket will not touch the inside of the quarter panel like in the original design...I'm hoping this reduces corrosion in that area by allowing airspace between the bracket and the inside of the panel. It will be undercoated quite a bit too...and it is all up above the inner shield.

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    and the inner fender shield. I did order 100 new plastic anchors that clip into the fender return...these made it easy to temporarily fit some self tapping screws to hold it in place....

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    and finally, the heat shield...not very exciting, but also not available anymore...so it had to be repaired. ( I probably could have wrapped the muffler or something, or, used an aftermarket heat shield, but what the heck....

    [​IMG]

    Ill get the brackets figured out tomorrow then I can cross another thing off that list!

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
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  12. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    A bit more done today in between doing family stuff and running errands for more clips and parts, and undercoating and cavity wax.......

    Here are the inner fender brackets welded together after a great deal of trial fitting and measuring. They are up above the inner fender shields, so are very difficult to position. I ended up bolting them into place on the fender opening and used a magnet to hold the crossbars in place to line up with the holes in the shield. it worked eventually!

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    heres where I had traced the fender liner edge and measured using what I thought to be parallel lines from the edge of the shield to the holes for the bracket. It looks like Ill need minimal spacers between where the shield sits more or less relaxed and the bottom of the crossbars. I found some threaded clips and got some stainless bolts for them. Ill probably use a light duty thread locker just to make sure they stay in place.

    [​IMG]

    In the end, I got everything to line up nicely. The passenger side shield was ripped in two spots and it looks like the previous body shop melted a big hole in it right where the inner fender bracket was. hmmm, wonder why it rusted so badly right there?!?

    I used a hot glue gun and sort of plastic riveted a couple of patches in place. I did this by melting through the patch and liner with the glue gun just enough to inject some hot glue/liner mixture into each hole. then I seam welded the edges of the patch. it seems to have worked great.

    anyway, thanks for looking.

    JP
     
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  13. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    So the final push continues!

    I got most of my listed items finished today save for a few reassembly items.

    -weld in DS fender arch repair panel
    -position and weld fuel filler brackets
    -position and weld inner to outer fender arch /fender liner brackets
    -Drill and mount rear mud guard brackets to new lower rear patches
    -install hub caps
    -tighten new shiny chrome lug nuts
    -attach heat shield
    -Undercoat bed with rubberized material and cavity wax
    -reinstall bed to chassis!
    -apply first skim coat of glass fiber reinforced filler, smooth and prime
    -take truck to body shop for final prep and paint!

    it was a long day, but we finally have our garage back just in time for a very big storm which is about to dump serious snow in our area...the Tacoma is parked safely and covered.

    The first pic is of the inner to outer fender brackets...I did get them buzzed in and undercoated. below is just after the seam sealer was applied....

    [​IMG]

    I was able to get the undercoating, cavity wax and welding done. The back of all repair panels have seam sealer applied too....

    Heres the frame with its last coat of cavity wax, fluid film applied

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    and finally....the bed starts going back in place!

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    it looks like we are back at the beginning of this thread!

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    lower, lower lower....I used a jack to move the truck slightly so all the mounting bolts would line up

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    back in place!

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    Its really nice to be at this end of the project...it was not what I expected in the beginning...and honestly, I still have not painted those blasted fender flares!

    [​IMG]

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
  14. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Is this early for you? I've noticed over the years that we get the tail end of your severe storms here, about 7 - 10 days later :(
     
  15. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    A bit on the early side, yes. Although, Thanksgiving was later this year which makes Christmas come early. ;)

    December is here, I guess...first part of the storm did not amount to much, but tomorrows tail end may result in the accumulation forecasted. up to 12" or so in our region.

    we shall see....

    JP
     
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  16. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    working down to the finishing touches. The body shop cannot take the truck until after Christmas, so in the interim, Ill be sealing everything up so it can driven until then. The inner panels are all protected with the fender liners back in place to keep mud and grime out of there, too.

    I was able to refit the liners, rear mudflap supports, and a few other reassembly items today...

    I started with stuff that needed to be painted...like the rear mud guard brackets. I cleaned them up, painted and finished them with a couple of coats of bedliner material

    [​IMG]

    Then I ground back the last of the weld beads on the arch repairs. I think Most of the welds are sitting below the surface of the rest of the panel and a few thin coats of filler should help get me on my way to a finished repair. I made a tool from some C-channel and welded a handle to it so that I could lightly hammer any high spots of weld bead back a little. I didnt want to distort the panel. I positioned the tool behind the weld bead so that the C-channel was on either side of the back of the bead. Then I just tapped it back until it was at least flush with the rest of the panel. Ill take a sanding block to it tomorrow and check for any lingering high spots.

    [​IMG]

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    Then it was on to the inner fender liners: heres the one that needed a bit more "filler" work done. I added a lip to the repair so that debris from the spinning tire below would not accumulate right where the inner fender bracket attaches to the fender arch...

    [​IMG]

    Then the wiring loom was zip tied to the underside of the bed (getting cavity wax all over my hands...its a good thing!) and the tail lights were repaired here and there and put back in place. (I cleaned up the bulb sockets in the back and gave them a coat of zinc paint)

    [​IMG]

    Then it started getting cold and dark, so that was it for the day....tomorrow Ill get the first coat of filler applied! I'm looking forward to that.

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
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  17. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    816
    USA-NY
    Now, I know I'm getting ahead of myself here, but look what I started on:

    [​IMG]

    Yep, the fender flares!...Satin black should do nicely, I think.

    and on to the bondo..skim coat after skim coat, after skim coat. I gotta hand it to you guys that do this on large projects. I cannot imagine doing a whole panel or a roof, or something with a really long compound curve!....I did use a trick of penciling in the good sections, and drew circles around any low spots, ready for the next coat of filler.

    I used the bondoglass for the first few coats for added strength...and that stuff is tougher to sand back down...

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    sanded back and then the next coat!

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    and again!

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    This went on for some time and went fairly well. I didnt sand too much off with each coat and just kept at it...I wont bore you with more pics of that, but it is looking good. I test fitted the flares several times and they tell me where any low spots are. amazingly, they are looking like they will fit quite well....

    Mood going forward: good!

    [​IMG]

    thanks for looking

    JP
     
  18. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,243
    Location:
    Southampton England
    something I have never got to grips with , always ended up with a fine line/edge to the filler , saying that only did it a couple of times as a lad, patience wasnt at it best during teenage years like most.
     
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  19. fixerupper

    fixerupper Member

    Messages:
    1,507
    Location:
    Crete Greece
    Your thread is an inspiration JP I have a 2000 Mazda b2500 truck that could do with this treatment ....But I'm still in the process of buying the plot of land next door to build the workshop on ....maybe next year ..keep up the good work ....Jeff
     
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  20. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,405
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    looking good JP,

    I'm not even close to being being any use at applying body filler but I have sanded a lot of bog in my time.
    Maybe some of the pros can add / correct my ramblings but what I've found after years of making dust is -

    1. Goes without saying, but get the panel as good as you can before starting. If any part of the panel is high everything needs to be raised with filler, or you will see a bump. Low spots are easy but be careful you don't end up with an inch of filler.

    2. Use a long rule or straight edge that can bend to give an idea of the shape you are after. (a 1m steel rule is great for this job) Use it to check that you have the right profile . You can check the other side to compare with where you are. No panel is completely flat but if you bend the straight-edge you can get most curves. If it's a compound curve or different curves in the same area, take the time to make a guide from a known good panel to get the shape. Card board will work but steel would be better.

    3. Use a straight long sanding block and coarse paper (40grit) to get the shape right. Don't try to do too much in one go. If the paper isn't cutting it will follow the line of least resistance which will be the shape of the filler. If the paper is too fine you will never get the right shape.
    A body file, if you have one, is a great tool as it can be adjusted to the shape of the panel and a a quick way to remove filler.

    4. Sand in lots of directions to stop getting tramlines. If steel islands start to appear the panel is high or the filler is low. Check what going on before putting more bog on.

    5. After the filler is applied use the straight edge (or another implement like a plastic number plate) to do a final sweep of the filler. Don't work the filler too much, just concentrate on getting the shape.

    6. When you are happy with the shape fill any blow holes, low spots etc. and go to a finer grade of paper or move to a DA sander. Be careful with power sanders as it's easy to lose the shape but they are great for removing scratches. Don't try to remove all the scratches in one go as again it's easy to loose the shape.

    7. When you are happy with the shape apply a few coats of epoxy primer and let it cure. Do a quick sand (or not) and apply a few coats of 2k primer filler of a different colour to the epoxy. Let it cure for as long as you can (if it's not fully cured scratches can appear later. This is a lot less lightly with 2 pack primers but can happen if you rush it)

    8. Apply a guide coat and block sand the repair. If you break through the primer to the epoxy (easy to see if they are contrasting colours) stop and check whats going on, then either fix the problem or hopefully just apply more primer. What you are trying to do is get a uniform surface to sand. If it is all primer of the same type you have a much better chance of getting a flawless finish. If you miss this step and are sanding original paint, filler, steel, primer epoxy etc. and you then apply the primer it is really hard to achieve this.

    9. When you are happy with the primer go down the grades to the finish you need for the top coats.

    Good luck and keep up the good work, remember it's a hobby and it takes time to learn any new skill but really worth it in the end.
     
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