Chainsaws

[mike os]

Ahhhh chainsaws... I love em.... have a few, new CM saws are the balls!

For logging just get a MS880, 12 inch bar, file the rakers off and go logging, you will be at the sharp end of productivity....lol

haha friend of mine does competition stuff... husky 70cc (365?) 14 inch bar, full chisel chain and no depth limiters.... total animal for snedding

 

[Migmac]

Nearly the first thing I do to a new chain is take the rakers down.

 

[pedrobedro]

Me too.. the best tool in the place ... what are CM saws? do you find the saw digs in a bit much and is a bit jumpy with low rakers ?...jeff.

Arthur is having us on fixer, if you could get a 12" bar for the MS 880 and if you filed the rakers off completely you wouldn't slow it down, you would be able to use the chips for firewood Don't take the rakers down too far on a small saw you will just bog it down when you get into thicker wood. Stihl CM saws are the new autotune carbs.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Personally I like to knock the rakers down as low as possible, much prefer it.

 

[fixerupper]

Well just about all of the cutting I do is hard olive wood ,so the rakers I think are best left a fag paper or two under the chisel it cuts smoother and faster IMHO... and I've heard it reduces the chance of kick-back whatever that is ...jeff

 

[tinman123]

Well just about all of the cutting I do is hard olive wood ,so the rakers I think are best left a fag paper or two under the chisel it cuts smoother and faster IMHO... and I've heard it reduces the chance of kick-back whatever that is ...jeff

im relatively new here so you might forgive my curiosity but i was wondering what is he at with the olive wood, that was til i seen you are in Greece.
that explains a lot.

 

[mike os]

do not reduce the rakers/depth limiters below that recommended by the chain manufacturer, the risk of a kickback is much higher , as is the potential force involved

you really do not want a big one, its not a nice experience

 

[tinman123]

just when ye are talking about sharpening chains,
a while ago on another forum id be on a lad put up a video of his new electric sharpener he had got for his saw, the one you mount on a bench , lie the chain on the track and pull the motor and blade unit down to grind the chain.

now, i could run the risk of the same result here too so im not saying i was right, but i was dealing with a lot of lads who just didnt want to see the bigger picture imo, or read the instructions at least.

so what went down was,
i nearly got the head taken off me when after about the tenth post went up on about how big a disaster an electric sharpener was.
they cut too much off the chain,
it heated up the chain and made it soft,
a hand file was a far more accurate way of sharpening a saw,
you cant use it out in the field,
and so on..

i stepped in and said that while they weren't the best way of sharpening a chain they were a precise enough DIY unit for it, each tooth would have nearly as much shaved off it as the last one and as long as light cuts were taken then it wouldnt overheat a chain.
and if the time was taken to understand how the process works and the instructions were read then you can get good results from it but as i said, they told me i was dreaming.

if i thought i was right id debate anything and if it turned out i was wrong then fair enough, ive learned something, and in the instance above i was all for debating their cons but there was none of that, iirc the thread was locked over it in the end.
so as i say, i still could be wrong but i dont think i am, for now anyways.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

just when ye are talking about sharpening chains,
a while ago on another forum id be on a lad put up a video of his new electric sharpener he had got for his saw, the one you mount on a bench , lie the chain on the track and pull the motor and blade unit down to grind the chain.

now, i could run the risk of the same result here too so im not saying i was right, but i was dealing with a lot of lads who just didnt want to see the bigger picture imo, or read the instructions at least.

so what went down was,
i nearly got the head taken off me when after about the tenth post went up on about how big a disaster an electric sharpener was.
they cut too much off the chain,
it heated up the chain and made it soft,
a hand file was a far more accurate way of sharpening a saw,
you cant use it out in the field,
and so on..

i stepped in and said that while they weren't the best way of sharpening a chain they were a precise enough DIY unit for it, each tooth would have nearly as much shaved off it as the last one and as long as light cuts were taken then it wouldnt overheat a chain.
and if the time was taken to understand how the process works and the instructions were read then you can get good results from it but as i said, they told me i was dreaming.

if i thought i was right id debate anything and if it turned out i was wrong then fair enough, ive learned something, and in the instance above i was all for debating their cons but there was none of that, iirc the thread was locked over it in the end.
so as i say, i still could be wrong but i dont think i am, for now anyways.

I bought one of those sharpeners from Lidls to give it a try and I was really pleased with it, I still use a file out in the woods but occasionally use the electric sharpener to even out the cutter lengths, like you said, with careful adjustment and use it puts a keen edge on a chain.
Even better, I put an advert in the parish magazine offering a chain sharpening service at £6 a time. Villagers drop their saw off to me and I give them a ring when it's done. Some of the chains have never seen a file and have been used to cut tree roots out but 10 minutes on the sharpener and its like new. I must have done about 18 chains since last summer so its paid for itself easily.
Looking to get another sharpener next time they are on sale as a backup.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I've only ever used a file and have rarely wanted anything else. I give each tooth the same number of strokes and it isn't hard work to keep it in good order.
The times when I've really wanted something that isn't powered by me is when a chain has hit something and had an unsympathetic operator keep pushing away, when you seem to need to remove 1/3 of the tooth it becomes hard work with a file!

 

[penfold]

I've got one of those lidl sharpeners, but don't get on with it; it's footery to set up, it doesn't grind the right shape and the grinding wheel is made of toffee. I prefer a hand file for a quick tune up or a dremel-mounted stone with a grinding jig for getting rid of big divots.

 

[Migmac]

Has anyone tried the sharpener that sits on the end of the bar? You push the bar into it while its running and it sharpens in one quick blip of the throttle.

 

[penfold]

They do work, but they're expensive, they only work with the chain they come with(which is specially designed for it), the chain doesn't cut that well compared to a sharp ordinary chain and they don't last as long. Horses for courses, if you do not very much sawing and live a long way from a decent chainsaw place and don't/can't sharpen your own then it might be the best answer.

 

[arthur]

You can't beat a round file imo.. Sorry about the 12" MS880, you gotta watch out what you read online haha, you could port it if you want more power, I have a ported Dolmar 166, use it for planking (alaskan mill), its old but runs slower that an 880 and is just nicer to use.. Also have the new 261CM and a 441CM they are amazing saws, all new and improved no doubt! Another fav of mine is I have a little 150C, its GREAT! Tbh I just love saws, grown up with them.. The low end 181 etc offer great value for money imo, ideal for anyone and I have worked them for years logging, pro saws are another level power wise but value for money, guess it depends what you want. Stay safe that's the key, buy some PPE, read up, watch videos, I have mates who have been on the wrong end, no such thing as a small cut with a chainsaw, not even when sharpening one

 

[pedrobedro]

I use a Lidl sharpener every so often to level the cutters up and if you go in too hard they harden the teeth not soften them. I find mine easy enough to set up and just remember not to pull the chain back against the stop too hard or it can flex and get varied results and keep the chain pulled back as you lock it in place. I still use a file in between as it's quicker not to have to remove the chain sometimes and you still need to file the rakers down.
The Oregon Powersharp system is the one with a stone you fasten to the end of the special bar and push for 3 seconds while revving the saw and it looks like it has it's place for someone who doesn't want to use files or take the chain off to get it sharp.

 

[mike os]

onlly sharpeners i have ever found to be much cop are the the pro kit like oregon but $$$$

 

[mr migwire]

just when ye are talking about sharpening chains,
a while ago on another forum id be on a lad put up a video of his new electric sharpener he had got for his saw, the one you mount on a bench , lie the chain on the track and pull the motor and blade unit down to grind the chain.

now, i could run the risk of the same result here too so im not saying i was right, but i was dealing with a lot of lads who just didnt want to see the bigger picture imo, or read the instructions at least.

so what went down was,
i nearly got the head taken off me when after about the tenth post went up on about how big a disaster an electric sharpener was.
they cut too much off the chain,
it heated up the chain and made it soft,
a hand file was a far more accurate way of sharpening a saw,
you cant use it out in the field,
and so on..

i stepped in and said that while they weren't the best way of sharpening a chain they were a precise enough DIY unit for it, each tooth would have nearly as much shaved off it as the last one and as long as light cuts were taken then it wouldnt overheat a chain.
and if the time was taken to understand how the process works and the instructions were read then you can get good results from it but as i said, they told me i was dreaming.

if i thought i was right id debate anything and if it turned out i was wrong then fair enough, ive learned something, and in the instance above i was all for debating their cons but there was none of that, iirc the thread was locked over it in the end.
so as i say, i still could be wrong but i dont think i am, for now anyways.

both our local saw shops use the electric sharpeners and if you put your saw in for a service they sharpen the chain using them. I use files when I'm out cutting but cant say I've ever had and probs after having a chain sharpened by machine.

 

[Shox Dr]

I find using a machine grinder they cut faster cleaner and a chain lasts longer (more likely to be poor hand filling in the past) I also find the bars last much longer, as the chain is evenly sharpened on both sides.

I did look at the on-bar type, but decided on the bench type as it forces you to strip the saw down.

On site, I use a PC backup wired to the truck battery, gives me 1800w on tap.

 

[mike os]

Properly sharpened on a grinder they should be like new, but once you learn how to file properly it's not a problem

Every 3 sharpens you should check tooth lengths fence staple makes a useful gauge, just bend the points in

 

[tinman123]

I use a Lidl sharpener every so often to level the cutters up and if you go in too hard they harden the teeth not soften them. I find mine easy enough to set up and just remember not to pull the chain back against the stop too hard or it can flex and get varied results and keep the chain pulled back as you lock it in place. I still use a file in between as it's quicker not to have to remove the chain sometimes and you still need to file the rakers down.
The Oregon Powersharp system is the one with a stone you fasten to the end of the special bar and push for 3 seconds while revving the saw and it looks like it has it's place for someone who doesn't want to use files or take the chain off to get it sharp.

the stop is where the consistency can vary slightly but as you say, pull the chain a similar tension each time you move it and it ill be damn close.
i have a good solid cast one here that id use an odd time and someone got me a present of a lidl one which is plastic afaik as i never took it out of the box tbh.
most of the time id just use the hand file with a gauge on it and id count the number of strokes on each tooth and id do that from new so each tooth would be as close as possible.

even tho the electric pull down sharpener isnt a precise machine i still wouldnt run it into the ground as the other crowd did.
it has a place.

the power sharp system is as you say handy for the man who dosent want to be faffing about with a file.
i had a look at it before and the chain teeth look light but its not for big work and is only really available for the smaller saws.
they sharp themselves as they run over the curved stones so the teeth are sharpened like a chisel point iykwim.