Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[Robotstar5]

Worth investing in something like this for removing terminals from shells.

 

[KimB]

I've used Vehicle Wiring Products for the bits to make looms, they stock quite a few connectors... and a wide range of the crimp terminals used in them and others so it's often possible to re-use the old connector shells and click new terminals into them.

Thanks I'll have a look I need to make it myself as I can't source one :'(

Worth investing in something like this for removing terminals from shells.

Brill I need these too. I couldn't remember what they're called but I'll order some

 

[Wedg1e]

Worth investing in something like this for removing terminals from shells.

I always found those little jewellers' screwdrivers did the job quite well, if a little slower (and fifteen quid cheaper )

 

[KimB]

I always found those little jewellers' screwdrivers did the job quite well, if a little slower (and fifteen quid cheaper )

So have I but if I'm going to do it id rather have the right tools for the job saves a bit of time I guess

 

[HughF]

A terminal removal tool is highly recommended, some terminals will be impossible without one. Use tinned wire, after crimping the terminals, a touch of solder will prevent future oxidation. If you need heat shrink, only use adhesive lined stuff.

 

[Robotstar5]

A terminal removal tool is highly recommended, some terminals will be impossible without one. Use tinned wire, after crimping the terminals, a touch of solder will prevent future oxidation. If you need heat shrink, only use adhesive lined stuff.

and smear the mating faces with dielectric grease before connecting.

 

[awemawson]

Sorry to disagree Hugh, but DON'T solder - it will wick up the wire making it inflexible and highly likely to fatigue break.

 

[penfold]

Sorry to disagree Hugh, but DON'T solder - it will wick up the wire making it inflexible and highly likely to fatigue break.

What he said; 70+ years of aerospace experience says crimps should not be soldered.

 

[KimB]

What he said; 70+ years of aerospace experience says crimps should not be soldered.

Over three times longer than I've been alive sorry I'll let myself out
I won't crimp them. When i come to do it I'll ask if I have to do anything but have no fear I won't soldier it

 

[penfold]

Over three times longer than I've been alive sorry I'll let myself out
I won't crimp them. When i come to do it I'll ask if I have to do anything but have no fear I won't soldier it

I'm not 90 years old, but I've worked with a few old boys who were there when the UK was designing and building aircraft the world bought, and they've forgotten a lot more than I'll ever know.

 

[KimB]

So yesterday I got an email from halfrauds with deals got this tool set for £135 saving 60% with a lifetime warranty pretty pleased as my tools have seen better days

Also got my clutch slave cylider today. Made a little pipe then realised the unions I have are the wrong size

Does anyone know what size the unions are ?

Finally, I also received the fan spanner today but in typical fashion it's seized on and just keeps spinning the pully on the belt I'm going to have fun trying to free it off I can just see

 

[KimB]

I'm not 90 years old, but I've worked with a few old boys who were there when the UK was designing and building aircraft the world bought, and they've forgotten a lot more than I'll ever know.

Hehehe touché, I'm 23 not 30 It's all good knowledge, I did my apprenticeship being taught by aerospace guys. I learnt allot but in mechanical side of things, didn't really do much electronic.

 

[penfold]

I'm pretty sure LR went over to metric unions in the 1980s, but it's always best to check.

 

[KimB]

I'm pretty sure LR went over to metric unions in the 1980s, but it's always best to check.

All of them are apart from these two

 

[Wedg1e]

Sorry to disagree Hugh, but DON'T solder - it will wick up the wire making it inflexible and highly likely to fatigue break.

I believe that for the same reason you shouldn't twist the strands together first, either.

 

[HughF]

What he said; 70+ years of aerospace experience says crimps should not be soldered.

If they're kept in dry conditions, yes. If they're stuck under a muddy Land Rover, bare crimps will rot, fast. A little tiny touch of solder that doesn't wick all the way up will go a long way to preventing the wire-crimp interface going green with road salt.

If you have modern automotive crimp housings with silicone rubber seals up the back of the wires, you'll be fine, but you'll never see those on a landrover.

 

[Robotstar5]

I believe that for the same reason you shouldn't twist the strands together first, either.

Just leave the exposed core with its natural "twist"

 

[Robotstar5]

If you have modern automotive crimp housings with silicone rubber seals up the back of the wires, you'll be fine, but you'll never see those on a landrover.

Most of the plugs/sockets fitted to modern Land Rovers are the silicon sealed type, and there are loads.

 

[HughF]

In at case, Kim should leave them un soldered. I assumed that as is is a late 90's defender the wiring would be made up of non sealed white plastic crimp housings which are now brittle and yellow...

 

[KimB]

In at case, Kim should leave them un soldered. I assumed that as is is a late 90's defender the wiring would be made up of non sealed white plastic crimp housings which are now brittle and yellow...

Nope all sealed