Freebee in need of tlc.

[Wallace]

The only down side is I can't see my self jacking it right up before every cut.

Doesn't need jacking, that could be blanked off as lifting the bow refills the cylinder through the one way valves used by the jacking piston.

 

[Wedg1e]

We used to braze our bandsaw blades, and I do remember having a proper big metalworking bandsaw which had a welder built in. The saw worked, the welder di not.

My ex's brother worked (maybe still does) for a certain machine tool supplier in the Midlands; they sold a certain Coventry-based car maker a large bandsaw with built-in blade welder. The welder was best described as 'cack' and the customer understandably kicked-off (the machine was sourced from the far East).
The supplier had to provide a stand-alone blade welder for free; it cost more than the bandsaw had sold for.

 

[Wedg1e]

The bade size is 64.5" x 0.5", carbon steel ones can be had for around a fiver, avoid the screwfix ones though, toolstation ones are not too bad,
Bi metal or M42 blades are better and can be found on ebay, expect to pay 3 times as much for them though.

I get my blades from justbandsawblades.co.uk as my ancient vertical saw takes (IIRC) 9 foot-odd long blades which are not a modern standard. The place I used previously used to make them up at a fiver a pop but they went bust I think... now they're 15 quid

 

[Richard.]

The two ive bought from a company called tuff saw wanted £13 a pop for the M42 starret blades. The cut is very nice and clean. I selected a fine tooth as I won't be cutting any thing thicker than 6mm wall and I would defo sacrifice speed to achieve a nice clean edge.

 

[CRB]

My ex's brother worked (maybe still does) for a certain machine tool supplier in the Midlands; they sold a certain Coventry-based car maker a large bandsaw with built-in blade welder. The welder was best described as 'cack' and the customer understandably kicked-off (the machine was sourced from the far East).
The supplier had to provide a stand-alone blade welder for free; it cost more than the bandsaw had sold for.

It was twenty years ago, so possibly not the same quality. ?Who knows?

 

[Richard.]

Basic 4 leg tubular stand. Got to flush off the flat braces as they protrude a few mm.
1st coat of hammerite. To hide the fact it's 2 different colours. Need a smaller brush mind for the intricate parts.

No complaints with that at all. Dead square cut and the finish is lovely.

 

[Wallace]

Needs an AC/DC sticker: Back In Black!

 

[Richard.]

Ok this is where I am weak and you guys are strong. Can someone please put up a sketch to show me the following. 1 supply going into 2 independent switches. Switch 1 for the coolant pump switch 2 for the main saw motor. All 230v. I have an idea how I think it should go but best to check. Cheers.

 

[MattF]

Both just switched manually, or also with an auto cut-off for one or both when the bow reaches bottom? Either way, it's easy enough to do. With the main switches, I always prefer to use double pole switches and switch both live and neutral. With the cut-off, just wire a single pole switch inline in the live wire which is then tripped by the mechanism to disconnect the live feed.

 

[Richard.]

Both manual switches to operate separately. So I can plug in the wall and turn either on and off as I please. Can you put up a sketch for me as the leccy lingo is not my native tone. Thanks matt much appreciate the help.

 

[MattF]

I'm crap at sorting sketches on the computer. It's simple as though. Just literally class it as a single, separate mains lead to each item, the pump and the motor. Then, snip the cables in half and use double pole switches to reconnect the two halves of each cable.

 

[Richard.]

Matt do you mean something like this.

 

[Richard.]

What an amazing (cheap) way of improving the saws downward motion. I backed the spring off half way set the damper on max and that has achieved perfect smooth down motion even on thin Wall box. Even though it damps both ways it's easily lifted back up without adjusting which is an added bonus. (Universal Chinese motorcycle damper) I wouldn't recommend for a tl1000 at 100mph but perfect addition for a bandsaw.
I've fitted a brass pipe to the bow pointing over the blade for cutting fluid and a line down to the pump.
So far total cost £46.50. (Not including the parts I already had) but is including the top bow I bought separately.
I'm thinking of another colour change. Not too keen on the gloss black now.

 

[eSCHEn]

View attachment 66886
What an amazing (cheap) way of improving the saws downward motion. I backed the spring off half way set the damper on max and that has achieved perfect smooth down motion even on thin Wall box. Even though it damps both ways it's easily lifted back up without adjusting which is an added bonus. (Universal Chinese motorcycle damper) I wouldn't recommend for a tl1000 at 100mph but perfect addition for a bandsaw.
I've fitted a brass pipe to the bow pointing over the blade for cutting fluid and a line down to the pump.
So far total cost £46.50. (Not including the parts I already had) but is including the top bow I bought separately.
I'm thinking of another colour change. Not too keen on the gloss black now.

Fantastic Richard

 

[Wallace]

Good idea keeping the spring, it should allow you finer control over the damper. I found a plastic tray at the garden centre big enough for the saw to sit in as a coolant catch tray.

 

[Richard.]

Yeah I was thinking of something along those lines a plastic tray to sit under the saw. Easier to cut drill and fit also not as rusty as steel or as expensive as stainless or ally. You've convinced me. Plastic it is.

 

[Richard.]

I'm not sure if the spring is doing much tbh. Perhaps a little hold but the damper is doing the lowering really. If I back the damper off it drops too fast even when the spring is fully wound up but if I tighten the damper up with the spring wound up it holds it up so I backed the spring off to just a bit of tension and set the damper to drop it very slowly. It's not a mod I would of thought of if I didn't ride evil bikes that need this things to tame head shakes. Id of probably ended up paying more for a proper one or made do with the Naffy spring.

 

[Wallace]

Yeah I was thinking of something along those lines a plastic tray to sit under the saw. Easier to cut drill and fit also not as rusty as steel or as expensive as stainless or ally. You've convinced me. Plastic it is.

I found a load of 15mm stainless tube down the shed to use like the old bike crash bars to protect the plastic tray! Had a look at the pros & cons of the bottle jack as a damper, a mod to the valve block to improve oil flow an air breather tube and a small spacer to restrict the up stroke and should work better than just using the jack on it's own. Just need to find the time.....

 

[Richard.]

That's going to work well. A big circumference wheel on the jacks open close valve should give you nice easy adjustment as it's something nice and big to grab and turn. Look forward to the pics. How do plan on fixing the top of the ram to the bow?

 

[Wallace]

I have a couple of M12 rose joints spare and will probably hang it like yours but a bit closer to the pivot to get more load on the cylinder. The trolley I started making a while back is quite substantial to house two scrap bins and bring the saw up higher for ease of use so I can easily lift the saw above the coolant tray on a couple of standoffs to give room for the cylinder.

Are you planning on using yours in the upright position with a table?