- Thread starter rtbcomp
- Start date
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 17,327
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Sounds a good price. You wussed out on the adaptation bit though.
Another possibility, (depending on whether it's arced gouges or just several drill holes), would be drilling through the table, tapping and studding the holes then grinding flush.
GrahamGKD
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,437
It's an arc of part drilled holes but some of them are quite large in diameter - it doesn't really matter, I guess, it would just be 'nice' to sort it out.
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 40,948
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
apart from welding them up with arc cast iron rods and grinding them back u could fill them with belzona metal repair its grey in colour and as tough as hell nothing looks worse than a table that looks like swiss cheese 
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
.... You wussed out on the adaptation bit though.
....
Yes, reluctantly but if I got it wrong it would ruin the drill. My biggest worry was putting too much heat in the gear and causing more damage.
GrahamGKD
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,437
apart from welding them up with arc cast iron rods and grinding them back u could fill them with belzona metal repair its grey in colour and as tough as hell nothing looks worse than a table that looks like swiss cheese
Yes, you are right, the appearance of it bugs me. I wouldn't have the confidence to weld it with cast rods as I have no experience of welding cast - I'd be worried about messing it up completely when the problem is only really cosmetic. The drillings are not so bad as to impair the use of the table - sometimes they can even be quite handy
I've lived with it for over 20 years already - maybe life's too short to bother about it.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
The gear would have to be annealed, machined and re-hardened. More expensive than it's worth!
The instructions make it quite clear about not changing gear when it's running, but even when starting in gear there is there is the potential for a substantial whack. Graham's method of giving the chuck a twist before starting is the simplest way, as long as you remember!
The instructions make it quite clear about not changing gear when it's running, but even when starting in gear there is there is the potential for a substantial whack. Graham's method of giving the chuck a twist before starting is the simplest way, as long as you remember!
GrahamGKD
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,437
Don't worry RTB - when you have been doing it as long as I have you will do it automatically on any drill you go to use!
In any case - I think the damage you have is from changing gear without stopping the machine rather than just starting without backing up the backlash.
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 17,327
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Annealing and tempering aren't that hard to do yourself.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
This is the work so far.
I ground most of the excess off with the bench grinder, then used the die grinder followed by a diamond file and then some wet & dry, used dry. The little recess is where the die grinder dug in, I was using a small diamond bit and didn't have enough clearance to get it parallel with the surface.
The tricky bit will be doing the driven faces, as they have to contact the driving faces with equal pressure at the same time.
I ground most of the excess off with the bench grinder, then used the die grinder followed by a diamond file and then some wet & dry, used dry. The little recess is where the die grinder dug in, I was using a small diamond bit and didn't have enough clearance to get it parallel with the surface.
The tricky bit will be doing the driven faces, as they have to contact the driving faces with equal pressure at the same time.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
They seem quite a good little outfit, two guys run it and they have a guy working for them. I asked them what metals they specialise in welding and he reeled off half the periodic table.
They use mostly TIG, with a some MMA. He didn't like MIG "It's not really a proper welding process." They don't like doing cast iron as they don't always know what quality material they're going to get in to work on.
They use mostly TIG, with a some MMA. He didn't like MIG "It's not really a proper welding process." They don't like doing cast iron as they don't always know what quality material they're going to get in to work on.
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 17,327
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Provided the faces should be square to the plate/gear, you can get some oblong files with one smooth edge. You could use one of those to do the final smoothing. If the angle towards centre is still fine at the back of the dog, that should guide the file in that respect. A bit of blue should show any small alterations necessary after that.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
I've got a set of small diamond files and about a dozen tubes of marking blue. (Remind me to let you have one when you call).
To get the final fit I'll have to file away until both dogs grip a piece of shim with equal pressure at the same time. I suspect the oil will take up any difference, if the proper stuff is what came out it is quite thick.
To get the final fit I'll have to file away until both dogs grip a piece of shim with equal pressure at the same time. I suspect the oil will take up any difference, if the proper stuff is what came out it is quite thick.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
Got the die grinder working again and used a diamond burr to get somwhere close and finished off with a diamond file. I haven't gone back as far as the original line, it was beginning to get a bit tedious, but I've got it square on to the driving dog, certainly as good as the reverse dog anyway.
