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octo0072000
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amps
lowest settings on a mig that sells today is the porto mig that goes down to 15 amps
very doubtful you will be able to modify yours for low end it will cost more than it's worth best off selling and buying another
link to porto-mig
http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
the little clarkes go down to 25amps that will do car body work ok
see link
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-90-mig-welder/path/diy-mig-welders
lowest settings on a mig that sells today is the porto mig that goes down to 15 amps
very doubtful you will be able to modify yours for low end it will cost more than it's worth best off selling and buying another
link to porto-mig
http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
the little clarkes go down to 25amps that will do car body work ok
see link
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-90-mig-welder/path/diy-mig-welders
octo0072000
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amps
bit more info would be good
what type make of mig and a picture of front panel insides etc
but doubtful to get it to go lower see my next post
bit more info would be good
what type make of mig and a picture of front panel insides etc
but doubtful to get it to go lower see my next post
shenion
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I used a 2.4KVA variac on my Clarke 130. Was trying to lower the amps doing aluminum. Worked ok.
You could use a transformer to lower the voltage going in. But to drop 10% you would need a 24V/8A or so one (would only handle lower power). Still a big, probably expensive transformer.
There are some PWM circuits out there similar to light dimmers. They are hard to keep stable.
You might also need a separate supply for the wire feeder if you start modifying the power going in.
Would not be simple.
You could use a transformer to lower the voltage going in. But to drop 10% you would need a 24V/8A or so one (would only handle lower power). Still a big, probably expensive transformer.
There are some PWM circuits out there similar to light dimmers. They are hard to keep stable.
You might also need a separate supply for the wire feeder if you start modifying the power going in.
Would not be simple.
Drains
Yeah, nah.
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Ozone, tell us more about the machine you're using. Most Migs will weld thin sheet with 0.6mm wire, no problem. It's more down to joint set-up and technique than the theoretical amps the welder puts out.
Stitch weld? I've never used it - it's just a timer - seems like a gimmick. You can pulse or stitch by pulling the gun trigger.
Stitch weld? I've never used it - it's just a timer - seems like a gimmick. You can pulse or stitch by pulling the gun trigger.
If you have never used stitch and do any amount of thin sheet welding, then this feature will mean welding is faster and easier, and allows set up of machine to be varied to suit particular job perfectly.
For anyone who is new to welding and wants to do car repair work, again the stitch function will make this work easier, especially so if you are working with very thin or corroded material.
For anyone who is new to welding and wants to do car repair work, again the stitch function will make this work easier, especially so if you are working with very thin or corroded material.
Sorry not sure what a manual count is? But stitch function is set up using 2 pots, one for on time and on for off, and using these in conjunction with the current settings on the welder will result in perfect welds on thin sheet material, and can also be used for welds where appearance is important, as it will provide a look a bit like a TIG weld.
Main thing for a beginner though, is that there is far less chance of burning holes, and once the right settings have been arrived at its simply a matter of pulling the trigger and welding, with no need to mess around with triggering, which on DIY type machines may be problematic in some cases.
Main thing for a beginner though, is that there is far less chance of burning holes, and once the right settings have been arrived at its simply a matter of pulling the trigger and welding, with no need to mess around with triggering, which on DIY type machines may be problematic in some cases.
Drains
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I've only ever see stitch function with one pot, as a timer for the weld. To restart you have to pull the trigger again. So for me it's always seemed pointless as I can time the weld in my head anyway. None of the bigger sets I've used have had a stitch function.
I can see how a two-pot stitcher might be useful.
I can see how a two-pot stitcher might be useful.
Murex stitch timers mean just triggering the torch, and this always used to be a common feature on their sets intended for sheet metal work. Seems weird that this feature is so rare nowadays, as it means acceptable welds are far easier for newcomers wanting to do jobs such as car repairs.
Single pot timers on MIG sets are intended for spot welding, and can be quite effective if the right type of shroud is used, and a bit of time is spent working out the best settings to use.
Single pot timers on MIG sets are intended for spot welding, and can be quite effective if the right type of shroud is used, and a bit of time is spent working out the best settings to use.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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On the various MIGs I have, there is both Spot and Stitch, both done using one pot. On Spot it's a one-shot weld of duration set by the pot., then you restart by releasing and re-pressing the trigger.
On Stitch you keep the trigger pressed and the weld is ON-OFF-ON-OFF....etc. until you release. ON time varied by pot. but OFF time seems to be similar irrespective of length of ON time.
I'll have a look at the circuit diagrams, it'd probably be easy enough to add an OFF-time pot.
Thinking about it, gas pre-flow timer would be more useful... they already have post-flow.
To achieve lower output Amps would need the primary voltage lowering... Shenion's variac would be the ultimate control but I would have thought a 220-110v transformer, wired in at the appropriate point, could give a useful 50% reduction on each setting.
Where's me soldering iron...
On Stitch you keep the trigger pressed and the weld is ON-OFF-ON-OFF....etc. until you release. ON time varied by pot. but OFF time seems to be similar irrespective of length of ON time.
I'll have a look at the circuit diagrams, it'd probably be easy enough to add an OFF-time pot.
Thinking about it, gas pre-flow timer would be more useful... they already have post-flow.
To achieve lower output Amps would need the primary voltage lowering... Shenion's variac would be the ultimate control but I would have thought a 220-110v transformer, wired in at the appropriate point, could give a useful 50% reduction on each setting.
Where's me soldering iron...
I've used the stitch weld function that Engineer mentions on professional machines some years back, in auto shops, and once the machine was set up for the metal thickness, it was very much faster than manual on-off tacking. Basically you are moving the torch as if you are doing a continuous bead, with the trigger held in, and the function is switching on and off far more quickly than you could manage by hand, or by using the spot setting. Don't they have this useful function on modern Pro machines, then?
bit more info would be good
what type make of mig and a picture of front panel insides etc
but doubtful to get it to go lower see my next post
not got one yet ,,just seeing what my options are ,,ie little mig low amps low cost /second hand is my only option,,or the bigger mig that can be modded for low amps but would need to be cheap 2nd/hand one..
...the two diodes sounds like the simple type of mod i like? how do i set that up? not being an electronics boffin ,,just a layman,,
and any other sugestions neednt be costly,,plenty of stuff in scrap yards,not just cars but all sorts of domestic and industrial electronics,,so if i can identify it, i can probably get it,, will need to read the rest of this thread so i can aknowledge any sugestions,,thanks so far chaps ,,ideas like these will be usefull,,for shure
mike 109444
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You could try making up a lead much like I did to go from the output of a 240 to 110v transformer (like Wedg1e was saying) one of the yellow boxes used by builders ( lots of builder gone over to battery tools now). Lead will need to have one of the round plugs to go into transformer then short length of cable then a 3 pin socket that you can plug your welder into, thus supplying it with 110vac. You would prob have to use higher settings as you are on less voltage. I don't know if the above will work for a welder but if you can borrow/get cheep (boot sale?) the yellow box then worth a try. I use the above as a speed reducer for angle grinder and a router for use on car grinding/sanding/cutting. You do have less power (that's the ideal) and it makes for quieter grinding 
let us know once you get your welder how you get on with this
let us know once you get your welder how you get on with this
mike 109444
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Forgot to mention I did read in one of the post on forum some one saying about there welder having a large induction coil (added?) and I think they were asking why this item was there. I think the reply went along the lines of "to improve lower voltage settings" but I could be totaly wrong as to what I rember.... Also mention of LARGE capacitors being added to improve ??? Spending far to much time reading posts
Also mention of LARGE capacitors being added to improve ??? Spending far to much time reading postslow amps mods getting more inventive and staying simple,,A1
got a 110 transformer already for my compound saw,,will try this as well,
when i get a welder, ,maybe in conjunction with the diodes on earth clamp lead , as sugested earlier,,
You could try making up a lead much like I did to go from the output of a 240 to 110v transformer (like Wedg1e was saying) one of the yellow boxes used by builders ( lots of builder gone over to battery tools now). Lead will need to have one of the round plugs to go into transformer then short length of cable then a 3 pin socket that you can plug your welder into, thus supplying it with 110vac. You would prob have to use higher settings as you are on less voltage. I don't know if the above will work for a welder but if you can borrow/get cheep (boot sale?) the yellow box then worth a try. I use the above as a speed reducer for angle grinder and a router for use on car grinding/sanding/cutting. You do have less power (that's the ideal) and it makes for quieter grinding
got a 110 transformer already for my compound saw,,will try this as well,
when i get a welder, ,maybe in conjunction with the diodes on earth clamp lead , as sugested earlier,,
octo0072000
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low amps
copied off another post have a look for one of the little Clarke welders but only good for car body work will struggle at anything over 2mm you could buy another bigger mig later on just for higher amps for thicker stuff because when you get a welder allsorts of people will be asking you can you do me this etc
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The 90EN and the Pro 90 Clarke's go down to 24A, so that might help a bit, but both machines won't do more than about 2 mm at the top end, so unless you have a stick welder for occasional thicker stuff you still have a problem.
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copied off another post have a look for one of the little Clarke welders but only good for car body work will struggle at anything over 2mm you could buy another bigger mig later on just for higher amps for thicker stuff because when you get a welder allsorts of people will be asking you can you do me this etc
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The 90EN and the Pro 90 Clarke's go down to 24A, so that might help a bit, but both machines won't do more than about 2 mm at the top end, so unless you have a stick welder for occasional thicker stuff you still have a problem.
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mike 109444
Member
Location: uk Bristol
quote
Forgot to mention I did read in one of the post on forum some one saying about there welder having a large induction coil (added?) and I think they were asking why this item was there. I think the reply went along the lines of "to improve lower voltage settings" but I could be totaly wrong as to what I rember.... Also mention of LARGE capacitors being added to improve ??? Spending far to much time reading posts ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,un quote
reply
dont sound as easy but will lookintoit fingersorenow,cantusespacebar,,,,,,,,,,,canttypeeither,ineedtofeed
Member
Location: uk Bristol
quote
Forgot to mention I did read in one of the post on forum some one saying about there welder having a large induction coil (added?) and I think they were asking why this item was there. I think the reply went along the lines of "to improve lower voltage settings" but I could be totaly wrong as to what I rember.... Also mention of LARGE capacitors being added to improve ??? Spending far to much time reading posts ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,un quote
reply
dont sound as easy but will lookintoit fingersorenow,cantusespacebar,,,,,,,,,,,canttypeeither,ineedtofeed
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