probably out of my price league ,,******,,
sorry never knew this was inapropriate,,,,******,,lol,,have you heard the bad language used in the harry potter,films,,the,outrage.,,had to close my eyes,,
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- Thread starter ozone
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probably out of my price league ,,******,,
sorry never knew this was inapropriate,,,,******,,lol,,have you heard the bad language used in the harry potter,films,,the,outrage.,,had to close my eyes,,
On the various MIGs I have, there is both Spot and Stitch, both done using one pot. On Spot it's a one-shot weld of duration set by the pot., then you restart by releasing and re-pressing the trigger.
On Stitch you keep the trigger pressed and the weld is ON-OFF-ON-OFF....etc. until you release. ON time varied by pot. but OFF time seems to be similar irrespective of length of ON time.
I'll have a look at the circuit diagrams, it'd probably be easy enough to add an OFF-time pot.
Thinking about it, gas pre-flow timer would be more useful... they already have post-flow.
To achieve lower output Amps would need the primary voltage lowering... Shenion's variac would be the ultimate control but I would have thought a 220-110v transformer, wired in at the appropriate point, could give a useful 50% reduction on each setting.
Where's me soldering iron...
at what point ? let me know how,,sounds good,,the ideas are taking form and getting a life now,,frankenstein would be proud,,,cant wait to give birth to this big/little bugG@
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Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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You can't simply plug your 220v welder into a 110v transformer and expect it to work. Yes, the high-current electrics would work but the electronics to drive it all and propel the wire wouldn't.
You'd need to break-in to the wires between the current range switch (or volts switch if you insist) and the main transformer, such that only the feed to the transformer is dropped through the 220-110 transformer without affecting other voltages in the set.
I can't guarantee the results you'd get, by the way, so if your MIG set goes pop you're on your own
You'd need to break-in to the wires between the current range switch (or volts switch if you insist) and the main transformer, such that only the feed to the transformer is dropped through the 220-110 transformer without affecting other voltages in the set.
I can't guarantee the results you'd get, by the way, so if your MIG set goes pop you're on your own
octo0072000
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Tha don't get owt for nowt
as i have said all along just buy one that does what you want in the first place if you dont have the electrical know how don't mess with it a lot of the newer PCB boards dont like volts drop on a lond extension lead let a lone a 110volts converter a coulpe of the littles clarke go down to 25 amps /volts
this one is 25 amps/volts low end
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-90-mig-welder
other than that it's the porto-mig but £600 ish
quite a few of the box shippers sell these top end 140amps low end 40 or 60 amps ok if you are welding 3/4 mm but for car body work they are just a door stop
as i have said all along just buy one that does what you want in the first place if you dont have the electrical know how don't mess with it a lot of the newer PCB boards dont like volts drop on a lond extension lead let a lone a 110volts converter a coulpe of the littles clarke go down to 25 amps /volts
this one is 25 amps/volts low end
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-90-mig-welder
other than that it's the porto-mig but £600 ish
quite a few of the box shippers sell these top end 140amps low end 40 or 60 amps ok if you are welding 3/4 mm but for car body work they are just a door stop
if you cant afford it you should try to make it,
,some times its about living life based on your own experiences,and ideas,,and not to limit it with the negative experiences of others,,
i always blame myself never the tools ,,well maybe the tool that sold them ..
xxxxxxhell,,lost it now but yeah hear what your saying,, but i like a challenge..
a bird in the hand,,is usualy going in the oven,,
and people living in glass houses,are probably homless and shouldnt play the rolling stones ,,as they will draw attention to the fact of sqatters in with the tomatoes,,
Tha don't get owt for nowt ] ?? then you ned to put your wallet away and try,,it always pays to ask,,
,some times its about living life based on your own experiences,and ideas,,and not to limit it with the negative experiences of others,,
i always blame myself never the tools ,,well maybe the tool that sold them ..
xxxxxxhell,,lost it now but yeah hear what your saying,, but i like a challenge..
a bird in the hand,,is usualy going in the oven,,
and people living in glass houses,are probably homless and shouldnt play the rolling stones ,,as they will draw attention to the fact of sqatters in with the tomatoes,,
Tha don't get owt for nowt ] ?? then you ned to put your wallet away and try,,it always pays to ask,,
octo0072000
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octo0072000
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shenion
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Would barely work.
The variac I used was 20A at 120v, probably 10A at 240V would work the same.
No, they are not cheap as they are bigger and heavier than the power transformer in the MIG (Mine is about 20 lbs.)
Mine is Chinese junk, real US made ones go for a kings ransom. Typical Chinese; the circuit breaker is on the neutral line. So when you flip off the breaker, everything is hot
Drains
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Ozone, pay attention. Use 0.6mm wire. Learn the thin metal technique. Stop cocking around and get on with it. You don't need to re-invent anything; you don't need to adapt anything; you don't need a variac. Buy anything except a two position gasless welder, or anything except a SIP or Wolf, and carry on. No more questions, you're just procrastinating.
shenion
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Yea, 40A is not that bad. Will be real hard gaslees.
As Drians said, if it was one of those cheap gassles ones with 2 positions, lowes is usually 50-60 amps. Combined with gasless will be way to hot.
You don't know if 40A is specified on 0.6 or 0.8mm wire. Try it on 0.6mm and see how it goes. With practice, it shoudl be doable.
Mine goes down to below 20A. After a lot of playing, I find I'm upping the power and moving fast. Much easier to deal with. Takes careful fit and a a good technique. I have done 0.9mm steel with 0.9mm wire with no problem (at the time too lazy to change wire.)
As I said, I used the variac on aluminum doing 1.6mm sheet. Wanted to try and avoid blowing big holes near the end of the weld as the sheet heated up.
As Drians said, if it was one of those cheap gassles ones with 2 positions, lowes is usually 50-60 amps. Combined with gasless will be way to hot.
You don't know if 40A is specified on 0.6 or 0.8mm wire. Try it on 0.6mm and see how it goes. With practice, it shoudl be doable.
Mine goes down to below 20A. After a lot of playing, I find I'm upping the power and moving fast. Much easier to deal with. Takes careful fit and a a good technique. I have done 0.9mm steel with 0.9mm wire with no problem (at the time too lazy to change wire.)
As I said, I used the variac on aluminum doing 1.6mm sheet. Wanted to try and avoid blowing big holes near the end of the weld as the sheet heated up.
hi ,,i did wonder ,,,,and what sort of industrial equipment may have somethng like this installed,,as i will look round the many scrap yards ,,do you mind if i get back to pick your brains,on this subject ie fitting and suitability of parts ,,all of which are my sole responsebility for anything i do and no blame to be placed on anyone else//
cheers
cheers
shenion
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Variacs were used in theater lighting; that is where you will see ones with a decent power rating.
Have seen them used in medical equipment. Saw one 3' high; 3-units stacked for a 3-phase setup. Was used on an MRI machine.
BTW, we had a PC CRT 2 rooms over on our equipment. you could only see half of the screen as the magnetic field from the MRI messed with it
Have seen them used in medical equipment. Saw one 3' high; 3-units stacked for a 3-phase setup. Was used on an MRI machine.
BTW, we had a PC CRT 2 rooms over on our equipment. you could only see half of the screen as the magnetic field from the MRI messed with it
Wedg1e
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I had a profitable spell selling ex-equipment variacs from decommiissioned industrial x-ray sets, on Ebay.
They were 0-240v output, 100-220 input and could easliy make 15A although most equipment had 10A breakers to limit things.
I could lay hands on a few now but they're of an unusual linear design that switches windings halfway along then runs the wipers back the other way... old Andrex x-ray panels used them with electronic control, figuring it out manually would be a pain.
Philips x-ray equipment used the tidiest variacs but is the most sought-after kit secondhand so we rarely scrap any these days. I think I've only seen two burned-out in almost 18 years. That's German engineering for you
They were 0-240v output, 100-220 input and could easliy make 15A although most equipment had 10A breakers to limit things.
I could lay hands on a few now but they're of an unusual linear design that switches windings halfway along then runs the wipers back the other way... old Andrex x-ray panels used them with electronic control, figuring it out manually would be a pain.
Philips x-ray equipment used the tidiest variacs but is the most sought-after kit secondhand so we rarely scrap any these days. I think I've only seen two burned-out in almost 18 years. That's German engineering for you
