- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Misterg
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I thought I'd try TIG for a repair on one of the front wings on my MX-5 (just another drop in the ocean 
). The panel is only 0.7mm thick (over the paint!) which doesn't leave much meat for grinding things flat, so I thought I'd see if I could butt-weld it with the TIG and planish it flat after...
Rusty bottom - the outside is similar. The speckles on the left (behind the wheelarch flange) aren't rust, just over spray from underseal concealing a previous bodge:
Wing cut off, and section of a repair panel trimmed to suit and tacked in place with TIG. I was pleased with the fit-up.
Gritted my teeth and sent it. Blew a couple of holes where I fumbled the filler when it was needed, but they filled in OK.
As expected, it was bent to hell:
The best thing I found to planish it with was an old tyre lever that I polished up a bit. I mostly used it as a slapper with the dolly from my cheapo set behind.
It definitely improved things, but I couldn't seem to do anything about the slight hollow in the centre - hitting it more didn't seem to change anything, so I decided to quit while I was ahead.
I didn't clean up the inside very much. I'll stick some seam-sealer over it once it has been epoxied.
Nowhere near professional standards, but I think it'll be reet with a lick of filler (and it'll be stone-chipped down there, anyway).
). The panel is only 0.7mm thick (over the paint!) which doesn't leave much meat for grinding things flat, so I thought I'd see if I could butt-weld it with the TIG and planish it flat after...Rusty bottom - the outside is similar. The speckles on the left (behind the wheelarch flange) aren't rust, just over spray from underseal concealing a previous bodge:
Wing cut off, and section of a repair panel trimmed to suit and tacked in place with TIG. I was pleased with the fit-up.
Gritted my teeth and sent it. Blew a couple of holes where I fumbled the filler when it was needed, but they filled in OK.
As expected, it was bent to hell:
The best thing I found to planish it with was an old tyre lever that I polished up a bit. I mostly used it as a slapper with the dolly from my cheapo set behind.
It definitely improved things, but I couldn't seem to do anything about the slight hollow in the centre - hitting it more didn't seem to change anything, so I decided to quit while I was ahead.
I didn't clean up the inside very much. I'll stick some seam-sealer over it once it has been epoxied.
Nowhere near professional standards, but I think it'll be reet with a lick of filler (and it'll be stone-chipped down there, anyway).
That's a nice repair, better than many of the restoration youtubers, probably the right call leaving well alone once it's close enough if you can't determine if there is too much area that needs shrinking or too little area that needs stretching.
If there is too much area you will normally be able to pop the low spot into a high spot as long as the panel is thin enough and you can push it hard enough.
Too little area will stay as a low spot when viewed from the outside of a convex panel like you have.
You're right, it's far too neat
Dell
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Before I retired I was a coach builder & my suggestion for a spoon ( slapped ) is a leaf from a lorry or coach leaf spring heated & bent to shape then the end that is going to be used to hit the steel ground & polished to give a very slight curve both side to side & along it’s length, I never found the shop bought ones had enough mass.
The hollow in the centre is where the steel has stretched so needed heat & dressing while hot to shrink it, I always used gas to weld for two reasons 1 the weld is softer 2 I could dress as I went along so tack as you did then dress then weld a bit & dress , much easier when gas welding aluminium but works for steel as well.
Anyway looks good & as you say it will be covered in filler & stone chip
Dell
iNf
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There's been a few occasions when a travelling steady would have been handy but I've only got a fixed steady for my Harrison M250. I decided to have a go at designing and 3d printing one.
Printed in Pla-cf.
Milling flats on the phosphor bronze fingers.
A couple of photos in place, showing the brass adjusters and locking screws.
Printed in Pla-cf.
Milling flats on the phosphor bronze fingers.
A couple of photos in place, showing the brass adjusters and locking screws.
julianthegypsy
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Don't forget the razor/comb for doing your own hair cuts/destruction!You got a replacement from the E Bay of the day, AKA the little book of mail order tat that came with the Sunday papers.
One big slipper for both feet, a knitted doll thing for hiding your spare bog roll, a crap memorial plate, a curly hose, a thing for chopping onions and a new Keymatic key.
Fill in the form, send off with your postal order for £2.87, and a stamped adressed envelope, wait 7 weeks and prepare for disappointment.
Laurie Tedcastle
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When I did my couse at Contour Autocraft, we did Jaguar xk120 front wing sections in autogenous mode. 1mm thick steel but easy to planish and wheel.I thought I'd try TIG for a repair on one of the front wings on my MX-5 (just another drop in the ocean
Rusty bottom - the outside is similar. The speckles on the left (behind the wheelarch flange) aren't rust, just over spray from underseal concealing a previous bodge:
View attachment 525632
Wing cut off, and section of a repair panel trimmed to suit and tacked in place with TIG. I was pleased with the fit-up.
View attachment 525634
Gritted my teeth and sent it. Blew a couple of holes where I fumbled the filler when it was needed, but they filled in OK.
View attachment 525636
As expected, it was bent to hell:
View attachment 525637
The best thing I found to planish it with was an old tyre lever that I polished up a bit. I mostly used it as a slapper with the dolly from my cheapo set behind.
View attachment 525638
It definitely improved things, but I couldn't seem to do anything about the slight hollow in the centre - hitting it more didn't seem to change anything, so I decided to quit while I was ahead.
View attachment 525639
View attachment 525640
I didn't clean up the inside very much. I'll stick some seam-sealer over it once it has been epoxied.
View attachment 525641
Nowhere near professional standards, but I think it'll be reet with a lick of filler (and it'll be stone-chipped down there, anyway).
View attachment 525642
Laurie
I made the random saw blade sitting around fit the petrol cut off saw, much faster and less messy than the chainsaw 
Took a washer and drilled it out to 20mm since the wood blade is 30mm bore and the petrol saw is 20mm. Kept the disc central with no vibrations the whole afternoon cutting away nicely!
Took a washer and drilled it out to 20mm since the wood blade is 30mm bore and the petrol saw is 20mm. Kept the disc central with no vibrations the whole afternoon cutting away nicely!
Blobber
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Not sure if that's more or less dangerous than a chain sawI made the random saw blade sitting around fit the petrol cut off saw, much faster and less messy than the chainsaw
View attachment 525765
Took a washer and drilled it out to 20mm since the wood blade is 30mm bore and the petrol saw is 20mm. Kept the disc central with no vibrations the whole afternoon cutting away nicely!
View attachment 525771View attachment 525772
I had one of those .. A dear old maiden aunt thought it would be a good idea ... with me being in the army . The Sgt major didn't like my attempt at sideboards level with the corner of the eye and across to the join of my ear. Ah well back to Charlie the short back & beano man .
julianthegypsy
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Billy Connolly talked about them and what happens when you try them out! He also reckoned he'd buy two of the giant slippers and leave them on the front step to scare off burglars!
I'd say less as doesn't kick into your face or bite into the wood and there's enough mass with the disc/engine if it does jam it barely moves in your hands lolNot sure if that's more or less dangerous than a chain saw
It looked good for taking bunions off.
Thankfully wearing steel toe caps so no improvised surgery planned
Kram
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I'd say the 372 would be quicker. Anyway theres no point being quick if you can only cut tiny logs, 5 or 6" max depth on that?
Steel toe caps will stop a chainsaw, but not so much a carbide tipped cut off saw... I dont think it would notice they were there.
Thankfully wearing steel toe caps so no improvised surgery planned
Steel toe caps will stop a chainsaw, but not so much a carbide tipped cut off saw... I dont think it would notice they were there.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I suppose you could say I made these.... The box is a controller for a piece of test equipment and the 3d printed thing is a test manifold for a different bit of kit.
It is for a work project, as I work from home I have to do the best I can with the equipment I have!
It is for a work project, as I work from home I have to do the best I can with the equipment I have!
MysterG
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More of a made over the last week or so but the last one was today...
Can't recall if I posted here about Sculpt and Send. A thing where a foundry sends you some wax, you model something with it and send it back, they cast it in bronze for you and then send it back to you.
Got one late last year, modelled a little raven skull, got it back just before Christmas. Dead chuffed with it.
Always wanted to have a go at cold casting some things so bought a kit of stuff before Xmas. Silicone for a mould, 2 part resin and some bronze powder.
Made a mould from the bronze and after first casting a plain resin one and a couple of "learning experiences" seem to be getting it right.
Plan is to use this new found 'skill' to do some editions of sculptures .... at some point.
Can't recall if I posted here about Sculpt and Send. A thing where a foundry sends you some wax, you model something with it and send it back, they cast it in bronze for you and then send it back to you.
Got one late last year, modelled a little raven skull, got it back just before Christmas. Dead chuffed with it.
Always wanted to have a go at cold casting some things so bought a kit of stuff before Xmas. Silicone for a mould, 2 part resin and some bronze powder.
Made a mould from the bronze and after first casting a plain resin one and a couple of "learning experiences" seem to be getting it right.
Plan is to use this new found 'skill' to do some editions of sculptures .... at some point.
