- Thread starter 6ply
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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I usually use either threaded bar and resin or screws and plugs.
I didn't really get on with the hammer in frame fixers...maybe I did them wrong but i always get an annoying wobble and it just doesn't seem secure! Might be different going into hard bricks though.
I didn't really get on with the hammer in frame fixers...maybe I did them wrong but i always get an annoying wobble and it just doesn't seem secure! Might be different going into hard bricks though.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I have also found that the hammer fix type do not fix firmly enough.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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Yes thats them...advice, one use only fixing
Big problem with frogged bricks & light block work is the block often crumbles and if you drill into the frog that's not been fully filled with mortar ,you're likely to have a poor anchor fix but might have a reasonable sheer force anchor .
Nobody has mentioned the perforated nylon top hats that you slip in the drilled hole , put in the resin then gently wind the threaded stud in . They are tremendously strong as the resin has full contact they the walls of the hoile and has chance to soak in to the wall & fully coat the threaded stud before it cures .
Not in this photo that there is also a shield to keep the resin in the hole & to stop you pushing the stud in too far as you put the stud in .. very little resin escapes & oozes out .
Nice to see someone is getting rid of a god awful flat roof , will the void be insulated as well ?
A place I purchased had Apex trusses stuffed on a flat roofed down stairs bathroom and nailed into the collars no birds mouths . . They left the rotted through felt and rotted through OSB flat roof in place and skinned the damaged ceiling in the room below .
gaz1
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no flat roof installed that is a back extension to a property so they used a sloping roof from the very start
i presume it will be insulated as its council passed
Quick question for you @gaz1 do you add preservative treatment to the cut ends of untreated timber? I can see this slowing down a professional and wonder whether it makes a difference anyhow.
gaz1
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if its internal then no if its external yes
if its going to catch some water then yes but you can buy pre treated material nowadays so its already done for you but pressure treated dosnt go all the way through and you do need to coat some ends after cuts
if its going to catch some water then yes but you can buy pre treated material nowadays so its already done for you but pressure treated dosnt go all the way through and you do need to coat some ends after cuts
Sorry for my typo. I meant the cut ends of TREATED timber. Anyway, you answered my question.
I've got plenty and was certainly considering that. Of course, the proper job would be to have a vertical cut in the masonry wall but I'm not doing that just to enclose the porch. There is significant roof overhang and I don't think damp will be a problem.
I spoke with building control some while ago and the conclusion was that so long as I keep the existing front door and don't add heating, none of my intended work would be subject to any control or permissions. Nevertheless, my plan is to keep it as warm and dry as possible. Will most likely leave the existing front door open much of the time.
Porch that i built this year... same structure as the extension
Finished, not rendered yet
Nice job.
Looks similar to what I'm doing except my porch is already built, I just have to enclose the two open sides. What was the final finish? Render?
