If the brick work is old and liable to split/ crumble use Fischer chemical anchoring and lengths of studding /all thread , so you get a stress free anchor in the brick .
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Not if the bricks were laid properly with the frog upwards and filled with mortar . Saw a house locally , built 6 yrs ago by so called professional builders , do the usual upside down frog trick .
When it came to pointing up large stretches of brick runs , they had so little mortar at the edges that the pointing tool went through the mortar leaving openings along the bricks .
ah, I thought there was some weird concrete screw / wood interaction I hadn't though of
whatever he uses should only really be seeing sheer loads, and the sheer strength of anything used should be loads more than needed
I really like concrete screws, so much faster fixing up sockets / cables / whatever, used them for pretty much everything here
addjunkie
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Im a fan too, not so good into soft blocks though.
I used them to fit the door frames in my stone storage barn. Champion, only down side is they are pricey!
MetalMonkey
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This thread feels a bit like a how to get a table out of a van. 
Just screw it on.
Pretty much anything will be fine, its just got to hold it in place.
If you saw how most door frames and windows were held in most properties...
Drill some holes through your timber, mark them up on your bricks, pop in some plugs and be done.
Brown plugs and some 5 or 6 mm would be fine, if you want to go overkill stick some blue plugs and some coach screws, but you will need to recess the heads with a zip drill.
If you want a one-and-done where you don't have to move the timber to put in your plugs, use some frame fixings, just don't go mad tightening them down.
Once the rest of your frame work is in place it won't be going anywhere.
Just screw it on.
Pretty much anything will be fine, its just got to hold it in place.
If you saw how most door frames and windows were held in most properties...
Drill some holes through your timber, mark them up on your bricks, pop in some plugs and be done.
Brown plugs and some 5 or 6 mm would be fine, if you want to go overkill stick some blue plugs and some coach screws, but you will need to recess the heads with a zip drill.
If you want a one-and-done where you don't have to move the timber to put in your plugs, use some frame fixings, just don't go mad tightening them down.
Once the rest of your frame work is in place it won't be going anywhere.
I have to agree. I bet most uPVC windows are held in with expanding foam and practically structural mastic, so if you have any form of mechanical fastening, you're one up on them.This thread feels a bit like a how to get a table out of a van.
Just screw it on.
Pretty much anything will be fine, its just got to hold it in place.
If you saw how most door frames and windows were held in most properties...
Drill some holes through your timber, mark them up on your bricks, pop in some plugs and be done.
Brown plugs and some 5 or 6 mm would be fine, if you want to go overkill stick some blue plugs and some coach screws, but you will need to recess the heads with a zip drill.
If you want a one-and-done where you don't have to move the timber to put in your plugs, use some frame fixings, just don't go mad tightening them down.
Once the rest of your frame work is in place it won't be going anywhere.
The frame fixings have the added benefit of sleeving the fastener from the treated timber, so limiting corrosion risk, not that I'd be hugely concerned either way. This thread seemed to start out assuming you had perforated bricks, but your picture shows frogs so I'm not sure the same concerns of finding voids in bricks are valid.
I see that's pebble dashed but I presume you'd do the same with red bricks? The ones with frogs.
The frame fasteners come with wall plugs that go into the wall and not the timber being fixed to the wall, at least that is the case with the ones I have seen.
As far as I am aware the house bricks all have frogs and I assume they have been laid frog uppermost.
Rather than reply individually to every single post here yes I do agree with the general point that pretty much any fixing is going to help keep the stud work in position and when it is all in place it's not going to shift. My original post asked about the chemical interaction between some fixings and treated timber as I seemed to recall reading somewhere about using or perhaps not using a particular type of fixing with treated wood.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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The deck-tite screws I used on my treated wood deck looks the same as the day they were fitted. I mostly buy exterior coated timber screws these days.
As suggested previously...resin fix and threaded bar would mean you could use fewer fixings points and it would be proper solid.
As suggested previously...resin fix and threaded bar would mean you could use fewer fixings points and it would be proper solid.
Smallfry
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Fischer frame fixings. If you are worried about the screws rotting, the frame fixings isolate the screw from the timber. They are more than strong enough.
Cut the timber to length, then mark it against the wall, so the holes are in the middle (height wise) of a brick. Five each side. Spur point drill the timber first, then offer up and drill through with a masonry bit. Dewalt extreme 2 are the best. Make sure the hole id more than deep enough. BLOW OUT THE HOLE with an airline if you can. Offer up the timber and tap the frame fixings in, until the plastic plug is flush with the timber, then screw them up. Job done.
Concrete bolts are overkill for this, and I regard those torx headed screws a bit of a bodge. Window fitters use them because they are quick. They all work though, and whichever method you choose, will see you out.
With the frame fixings, only buy Fischer or Rawlplug. The cheap ones tend to have soft heads and "cam out" leaving you unable to finish getting them in, they are also more prone to snapping
Cut the timber to length, then mark it against the wall, so the holes are in the middle (height wise) of a brick. Five each side. Spur point drill the timber first, then offer up and drill through with a masonry bit. Dewalt extreme 2 are the best. Make sure the hole id more than deep enough. BLOW OUT THE HOLE with an airline if you can. Offer up the timber and tap the frame fixings in, until the plastic plug is flush with the timber, then screw them up. Job done.
Concrete bolts are overkill for this, and I regard those torx headed screws a bit of a bodge. Window fitters use them because they are quick. They all work though, and whichever method you choose, will see you out.
With the frame fixings, only buy Fischer or Rawlplug. The cheap ones tend to have soft heads and "cam out" leaving you unable to finish getting them in, they are also more prone to snapping
MattF
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The treatment/finish applied to most, if not all, of any of these fixings should make any of them fine for the purpose. Treated wood is in everyday use by various types of tradesmen, & these are the fixings they'll be using.
Sorry, didn't realise the frame fixing plug is set flush with the surface of the timber being fixed. I assumed it would be flush with the wall, as per a standard wall plug.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I usually use either threaded bar and resin or screws and plugs.
I didn't really get on with the hammer in frame fixers...maybe I did them wrong but i always get an annoying wobble and it just doesn't seem secure! Might be different going into hard bricks though.
I didn't really get on with the hammer in frame fixers...maybe I did them wrong but i always get an annoying wobble and it just doesn't seem secure! Might be different going into hard bricks though.
