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8th generation, Weyland type
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Can you link a source or ISO standard for what ‘proper connector’ you mean?
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
My neighbor gave me his old Echo CS-4500 chainsaw the other day. He said it ran fine, but the starter cord didn't recoil properly. A quick fix, or so I thought, until I took a closer look at it. This turned out to be one of those "as long as I've fixed that, I might as well fix this" projects. I found quite a few issues, but the compression was still like new, and I like Echo products, so I thought I’d do it right. I even ordered a new “ECHO” label. I found some good used parts, which saved some cash, but I still spent well over 100 bucks, which included a new Oregon sprocket, clutch drum, bearing, bar, and chain. The saw runs great now, starts right away, idles and runs smoothly, and the automatic and manual chain oilers work fine. It even looks halfway decent, so I guess I won't complain.
Here's what I did:
- Starter cord frayed (replaced)
- Starter cord guide chipped (replaced)
- Phenolic side plate for starter spring worn (replaced)
- Thumb-operated manual chain oiler broken (replaced)
- Outer chain guide plate missing (replaced)
- Spike missing (replaced)
- Rim-type sprocket, w/bearing & drum worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- 18” Bar usable but worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- Chain usable but worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- Clutch cover casting usable but broken (replaced)
- Main Echo logo label torn (replaced)
- Starter cover mounting screw missing (replaced)
- Air filter dirty (cleaned)
- Chain catcher damaged (replaced)
- Grounding wire (shut-off wire) frayed (repaired)
- Carburetor (cleaned)
Chainsaw after some deconstruction and cleaning:
Chainsaw after repairs:
I now own five chainsaws, but you can’t have too many, right?
Here's what I did:
- Starter cord frayed (replaced)
- Starter cord guide chipped (replaced)
- Phenolic side plate for starter spring worn (replaced)
- Thumb-operated manual chain oiler broken (replaced)
- Outer chain guide plate missing (replaced)
- Spike missing (replaced)
- Rim-type sprocket, w/bearing & drum worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- 18” Bar usable but worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- Chain usable but worn (replaced with new Oregon part)
- Clutch cover casting usable but broken (replaced)
- Main Echo logo label torn (replaced)
- Starter cover mounting screw missing (replaced)
- Air filter dirty (cleaned)
- Chain catcher damaged (replaced)
- Grounding wire (shut-off wire) frayed (repaired)
- Carburetor (cleaned)
Chainsaw after some deconstruction and cleaning:
Chainsaw after repairs:
I now own five chainsaws, but you can’t have too many, right?
No single proper connector, but anything with an impedance of between 85-115ohms at 100-250MHz. Have a look up of impedance matching and if want a lot of detail and a very interesting book, a handbook of black magic, high speed digital design, and if you run the numbers, you can see why a small mismatch will be ok but it does degrade the signal at some point
Pigeon_Droppings2
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- london
I couldn't decide which post this should go it....I made it...out of a free board I scrounged!
Coated my free scrounged tile backer board in epoxy and fiberglass. I then cut a hole in it to make a window outlet for my aircon.
I have to say...the tile backer board was really good...basically zero heat transfer and the room is south facing.
Found some spare foil insulation and stuck it on the outside...came out quite the pro job I think....very unlike me
Coated my free scrounged tile backer board in epoxy and fiberglass. I then cut a hole in it to make a window outlet for my aircon.
I have to say...the tile backer board was really good...basically zero heat transfer and the room is south facing.
Found some spare foil insulation and stuck it on the outside...came out quite the pro job I think....very unlike me
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Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
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- london
The reverse side...pretty pleased with this. The rough surface was caused by me covering it with an old bag and then adding a ply board and weights as it needed to be kept flat while it cured.
Today it's 30c+ outside and there's very little heat soak coming through the board.
Today it's 30c+ outside and there's very little heat soak coming through the board.
Do you have access to the hot side air inlet? The hot air being blown out has to come from somewhere, and probably at 30 degC plus, which also has to be cooled, causing a huge reduction to the overall cooling efficiency. On a day like this, a 12,000BTUh unit may only be producing an effective cooling of 4,000BTUh. I'm in the process of channeling the hot side air input via a second hose to the outside.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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My old machine had x2 ports...new one takes the hot side from the room which is very annoying as it's creating a negative pressure in the room effectively.
I'm just using it to knock the temp down in my office when I'm working...i leave my office door open and have the AC set very low and set to 24....it's effective but not efficient!
Quite impressed how quiet the new machines are....my old one had to be switched off for calls.
For context it's currently 32C in London...and usually that would mean 35C in my office with all the heat from computers etc.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Nice old childs toy lawn mower.
Eg a smaller than the grown up version.
Simple drive.
getting this far showed there was, in fact 2 shades of green paint. Matching them showed they are still used on the MG range. Digging on the net showed they were an Austin shade.
Under the green was a blue. I did not like it, so we went green.
Soaking the oak rollers in linseed oil.
They went gluck gluck. But the cracks closed.
Starting the rebuild.
Blades backed lap to give a good edge.
All done, working.
But it needs tweaking a bit.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,430
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- cornwall, united kingdom
All finished.many years ago, when I built the garage, I ran Ethernet out to give me Wi-Fi out there. its been working fine til recently.
now it isn't.
I had to extend the wires because I was stupid and cut them too short, the connectors are waterproof but obviously it wasn't a good long term solution.
so i fixed it...
and in doing so gave myself a lot of work refinishing my toilet...
dug up the splice
pulled new wire through the conduit.
then up through the bathroom wall
replaced the plasterboard
and by the front door as i now had a offcut to use
and made up the joint in the loft. in a dry location and completely accessible jelly crimps are totally acceptable.
"conduit" replaced (its data, proper conduit is tiny, hard to pull through and expensive by comparison, this works... gimme a break)
And for the record, it works fine. And my tester shows the same atten as a virgin cable of roughly the same length.
The tape deck on my mum's Beocentre 8000. 20 quid of new belts, scrap and wipe the old belts off, fandangle the new ones in . . . fix another problem causing the heads to not come out properly . . . remove more circuit boards to find the screw that ran under them and refused to be shaken out . . . and it now plays tapes for probably the first time this century
qwakers
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Blobber
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Carrying on with the baler fail, one of the needles had broken, pretty chunky bit of cast but it will either weld or wont!
Plenty of heat seems to have got it
Dam near invisible repair!
A splosh of primer and it is invisible
What was a concern is how it broke, there was no rusty crack to say it was on its way out but further investigation shows the bale ram wooden block/bearing had broken up,
this had allowed the thick shim to move at a right angle and bingo collision time
As usual you need small misshapen hands to get on the fixings so if the weather is fine tomorrow there may be swearing involved!
Plenty of heat seems to have got it
Dam near invisible repair!
A splosh of primer and it is invisible
What was a concern is how it broke, there was no rusty crack to say it was on its way out but further investigation shows the bale ram wooden block/bearing had broken up,
this had allowed the thick shim to move at a right angle and bingo collision time
As usual you need small misshapen hands to get on the fixings so if the weather is fine tomorrow there may be swearing involved!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 12,658
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- Sevenoaks, UK
More diagnosed than fixed! Pub, bar top ice machine. Synchronous motor is u/s:
It's supposed to rotate the trough thing, that brings in a microswitch that starts the pump, that fills the trough etc.
Off to trawl the interweb.
It's supposed to rotate the trough thing, that brings in a microswitch that starts the pump, that fills the trough etc.
Off to trawl the interweb.
DennisCA
Member
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- Finland
I managed to save my sunglasses after they developed a weird spiderweb like pattern of cracks. Optician said it was probably heat and a protective top layer that didn't stand the heat. These glasses are 15 years old and the current lenses are progressive ones. Given they were unusable in their current state I figured I had nothing to loose by trying to polish them. Used Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. Half an hour of work and I can see as well out of them as before. I was afraid I'd alter the prescription by polishing but it seems not.
One can see towards the edge of the lens where I wasn't able to polish as well, but that doesn't bother me. New progressive prescription lenses are expensive so glad I was able to save them.
One can see towards the edge of the lens where I wasn't able to polish as well, but that doesn't bother me. New progressive prescription lenses are expensive so glad I was able to save them.
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
How does it compare to the motor in a heating zone valve? Looks a bit similar?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 12,658
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- Sevenoaks, UK
It did cross my mind. I've ordered what should be an exact replacement from China for £15 on a week delivery.
badabec
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- Essex UK
Now put them in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove all the carp from the nose padsI managed to save my sunglasses after they developed a weird spiderweb like pattern of cracks. Optician said it was probably heat and a protective top layer that didn't stand the heat. These glasses are 15 years old and the current lenses are progressive ones. Given they were unusable in their current state I figured I had nothing to loose by trying to polish them. Used Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. Half an hour of work and I can see as well out of them as before. I was afraid I'd alter the prescription by polishing but it seems not.
One can see towards the edge of the lens where I wasn't able to polish as well, but that doesn't bother me. New progressive prescription lenses are expensive so glad I was able to save them.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- Manchester UK
Car brakes (again) I had to use the little toy jack as we couldn't find the handle for mine, which is a nuisance as it won't go down without it. Anyhow now that I have the hang of the settings on my Milwaukee rattle gun I was right impressed with it:
Proper Mintex pads and Pagid disks, one thing though, I discovered that one of the tyres needed replacing. Which is okay these things dont last forever BUT when the wheel was on the balancing machine my local tyre guy called me over, the wheel is like an egg! Bloody potholes, I can't believe how bad it is bent, you would have thought the tyre would have burst. Shows just how well they are constructed really.
Proper Mintex pads and Pagid disks, one thing though, I discovered that one of the tyres needed replacing. Which is okay these things dont last forever BUT when the wheel was on the balancing machine my local tyre guy called me over, the wheel is like an egg! Bloody potholes, I can't believe how bad it is bent, you would have thought the tyre would have burst. Shows just how well they are constructed really.
