Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[m_c]

If it's only being used to tidy up some cable then it doesn't really need to be strong so fine for this application no?

As for harder to print I'd probably just give up, order grey/black and spray paint it after

It might be fine, but the layers don't bond as well, so you might find that it splits when trying to put the screws in.

I use white quite often for some bits I sell, and for the use, it prints OK with adequate strength, but it's something to be aware off.

 

[JOEPRO]

First go at ABS.

A failed ABS Benchy (adventurer 5m 110c bed 255c nozzle std speed)



Trying again but with fine print setting and slowing the speeds down a little. Increased the gyroid infill to 25%.

The print felt weak so maybe next time the layers bond better if thinner and a little slower.

 

[Dozzer]

First go at ABS.

A failed ABS Benchy (adventurer 5m 110c bed 255c nozzle std speed)

View attachment 502824

Trying again but with fine print setting and slowing the speeds down a little. Increased the gyroid infill to 25%.

The print felt weak so maybe next time the layers bond better if thinner and a little slower.

ABS likes a heated enclosure, the layer adhesion can be a bit hit and miss otherwise.
Did you turn off/down the active part cooling?
Glass transmission temp is quite high

 

[JOEPRO]

ABS likes a heated enclosure, the layer adhesion can be a bit hit and miss otherwise.
Did you turn off/down the active part cooling?
Glass transmission temp is quite high

Thanks for that- I didn't know to check that so I have turned the % fan speeds down less than half of what they are by default.

I cancelled the benchy that had restarted and it feels alot stronger than before on the thinner layers.

So maybe reducing the cooling away down and running it again will give me a complete benchy.

 

[JOEPRO]

ABS likes a heated enclosure, the layer adhesion can be a bit hit and miss otherwise.
Did you turn off/down the active part cooling?
Glass transmission temp is quite high

Thanks for that- I didn't know to check that so I have turned the % fan speeds down less than half of what they are by default.

I cancelled the benchy that had restarted and it feels alot stronger than before on the thinner layers.

So maybe reducing the cooling away down and running it again will give me a complete benchy.

Update- the ABS Benchy completed AOK this time. Not at home now but it looks good and is strong no issues there so the adjustments made a huge difference

 

[knighty]

I've only ever printed in ABS

cooling is always turned off, if it's something important I pre-heat the best for a good 10 or 15min to warm up the enclosure

something tall and important I print a wall around it - that makes a really big difference
(can't remember the name of this setting, prusa slicer has an option for it, back 'in the day' I'd have the wall as part of the drawing of the item)

tbh... for 99% of stuff I don't bother with any of that, it's only a problem with big stuff which can warp or tall stuff where the bottom cools faster than the top


tempted to try ASA but never got around to it

 

[Dozzer]

Today my printer made =
A mess, because some numpty put a roll of Petg in the CFS, but left the settings for that roll as PLA.
I can say with confidence that PLA settings dont work.
this is whet it looked like after i had scraped the few bits that did stick of the bed

 

[My Old Landy]

Today my printer made =
A mess, because some numpty put a roll of Petg in the CFS, but left the settings for that roll as PLA.
I can say with confidence that PLA settings dont work.
this is whet it looked like after i had scraped the few bits that did stick of the bed
View attachment 502927

You are not the first and I doubt you will be the last!!

 

[Dozzer]

With the right settings its behaving its self

 

[JOEPRO]

With the right settings its behaving its self
View attachment 502946

That looks like a big overhang with no support am I seeing that right? I don't think my printer could do that.

I am trying the white PETG. It is temperamental as noted. Had to stop a print then go again. So far it looks OK

 

[Dozzer]

That looks like a big overhang with no support am I seeing that right? I don't think my printer could do that.

I am trying the white PETG. It is temperamental as noted. Had to stop a print then go again. So far it looks OK

It is a big overhang, the direct cooling is quite good and run the overhang speed very slowly. its not perfect, but will do for none aesthetic part.
PETG is a bugger to print, and have run the light grey and green at only 95% flow.
It is another filament that likes heated bed and chamber if you have it, i run build plate @75c and chamber temp @45-50c
The one thing i have been doing it before every print, degrease the bed with IPA 99.9%

 

[JOEPRO]

It is a big overhang, the direct cooling is quite good and run the overhang speed very slowly. its not perfect, but will do for none aesthetic part.
PETG is a bugger to print, and have run the light grey and green at only 95% flow.
It is another filament that likes heated bed and chamber if you have it, i run build plate @75c and chamber temp @45-50c
The one thing i have been doing it before every print, degrease the bed with IPA 99.9%

Have you ever tried ASA?

 

[Dozzer]

Have you ever tried ASA?

View attachment 502955

No not tried it yet,i have some Nylon & Nylon CF i want to try first, but need to create the CAD models first!

 

[Dozzer]

And on a more serious note BCN3D have gone bankrupt, we have 2 of their large Epsilon duel head machines at work, one has broken the drive board for the extruder, and we cannot get the parts.
So be quite careful if any come up second hand. we only found out last week when we approach the Uk distributor for spares.

https://www.voxelmatters.com/bcn3d-files-for-bankruptcy-amid-ongoing-financial-troubles/​

 

[ajlelectronics]

Nylon bush kit for the outboard steering arm. A bit frilly because it needed the filament to be dryer and it's only 15% infill. This is Overture Easy Nylon. The green test was ABS, that showed that I needed to tweak the printing parameters to expand the hole to correct it.

 

[Onoff]

Update- the ABS Benchy completed AOK this time.

Got a picture?

My lad tried ABS early on with the Anycubic i3 Mega S.

Have never pursued it, even with the Bambu X1C as we print in the house and are concerned ref fumes.

 

[JOEPRO]

Got a picture?

My lad tried ABS early on with the Anycubic i3 Mega S.

Have never pursued it, even with the Bambu X1C as we print in the house and are concerned ref fumes.

I threw it away sorry. It looked pretty decent but was still a bit weak. I could easily snap the part. So I think the ABS didn't really fully bond for some reason.

Re fumes I also print inside in my small study but didn't notice any fumes at all although only a small benchy.

Ill try using the ABS some time but PETG and PLA and printing significantly stronger for me and do what I need them to do

 

[ajlelectronics]

I am astonished at how well the K1 and K2 deal with ABS and nylon. It just does, no messing with Kapton tape, slurry or incantations.

 

[Onoff]

I am astonished at how well the K1 and K2 deal with ABS and nylon. It just does, no messing with Kapton tape, slurry or incantations.

Might get my lad to try something small in ABS on the X1C in that case!

 

[iNf]

These containers were printed in abs on my p1s with no problem. They needed a small brim to stop them lifting. I usually use the app to turn on the heated bed for 10 minutes before printing .