That gives me old school product catalogue/how it's made vibes, looks really good!
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Blue Chips
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Looks like new.
Mr. Case has been pretty well taken care of over the years. Case is a 1987 4x4 480E, which had very low hours when I bought it about 16 years ago, and I haven't put all that many hours on it myself. IIRC, there are now about 2200 hours on the meter. I plan to do some cosmetic work (paint, new decals, etc.,) if/when I get caught up on a few other projects.
Dozzer
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Re Gelcoated the roof on my mothers old house getting it ready for sale.
BH jet washed it as it was pretty mucky, to reveal the fibreglass was starting to show through.
So a day of sanding, then wipe down with Acetone, and then re coat.
Quite happy with the result.
BH jet washed it as it was pretty mucky, to reveal the fibreglass was starting to show through.
So a day of sanding, then wipe down with Acetone, and then re coat.
Quite happy with the result.
Gelcoat? My workshed flat roof is 9x2 beams with a lay then glassfibre laid roof.... been on there well over a decade now. Dirty and in need of a power wash yes, but - is that "Gelcoat" the same grey topcoat stuff that it had to start with?
sako243
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Minor waterleak in the mains into the house.
The Plasson tap had split on the upstream portion of the thread so was leaking water out. Didn't have any 25mm fittings (all our stuff outside is 20mm) but as it's going into 22mm copper it needed to be bigger.
Quick trip down to David Harries and the tap was replaced with a straight connector. When I teed in the workshop and office into the water we also installed an isolator in the manhole outside so no point having two in quick succession.
The Plasson tap had split on the upstream portion of the thread so was leaking water out. Didn't have any 25mm fittings (all our stuff outside is 20mm) but as it's going into 22mm copper it needed to be bigger.
Quick trip down to David Harries and the tap was replaced with a straight connector. When I teed in the workshop and office into the water we also installed an isolator in the manhole outside so no point having two in quick succession.
ajlelectronics
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If I could be pedantic for a moment (Moi?); Gelcoat is the first coats against a mould, it needs air excluded to cure correctly. What you have applied is Flowcoat, which requires air to cure correctly.
This morning i fixed my 2.5hp Mariner outboard, its a venerable little thing & normally utterly reliable, back in february i went to use it as rescue boat for the club paper boat race on our ten foot dinghy. It would not start & in the end i took it off the boat & put it up on the quay so then had to row. For a moment i nearly cast the dead engine into the creek. The boat is short & fat & rows like a skip so it wasnt enjoyable.
The outboard has been sitting there for months. We need it soon so this morning i had a look, Got a container & pulled the petrol pipe off, fuel runs out, i unscrew the carb drain & fuel runs out over my fingers Oo that feels oily.................
Yep i had filled the tank with white diesel., No wonder it wouldnt start. Duuuhhh!
The outboard has been sitting there for months. We need it soon so this morning i had a look, Got a container & pulled the petrol pipe off, fuel runs out, i unscrew the carb drain & fuel runs out over my fingers Oo that feels oily.................
Yep i had filled the tank with white diesel., No wonder it wouldnt start. Duuuhhh!
Windy Miller
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The other day I filled my L200 up with Premium Unleaded. AGAIN!
It didn’t like it much, but being an old fashioned thing it didn’t do any damage and was easy enough to sort out.
Sorted out this tray of hydraulic press pump parts that's been taking up my limited bench space for about 18 months. I made a new piston and cylinder, hardenend and lapped with an aluminium lap and diamond paste. It's longer for more support and the links keep the load from the lever closer to the axis of the cylinder to reduce the side load it's now got 30mm of travel instead of the approx 22mm it had originally.
Not really what the thread is about I suppose - but today I tried to fix/improve my mountain bike riding.
I undertook a Jumping Course today.
(I've mountain biked a few years & just learnt skills as I went along as it were - but Jumping beyond using "Speed & Stupid" instead of technique is a bit iffy at my advancing decrepitude... so I took some pointers from a Trainer. My technique is not "fixed" but I now have some base principles to practice & try to fix this aspect of my mountain biking)
I undertook a Jumping Course today.
(I've mountain biked a few years & just learnt skills as I went along as it were - but Jumping beyond using "Speed & Stupid" instead of technique is a bit iffy at my advancing decrepitude... so I took some pointers from a Trainer. My technique is not "fixed" but I now have some base principles to practice & try to fix this aspect of my mountain biking)
Memmeddu
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- Italia Sardegna
I've had lunch and started watching YouTube videos on my coach, eventually got bored and repaired a chainsaw, I've then attempted to get it started
Pulled once but suddenly found myself on the couch and my phone flying across the living room...
I've instantly discovered it was only a dream, the chainsaw never existed but the pull rope uhm excuse me, the phone does.
Pulled once but suddenly found myself on the couch and my phone flying across the living room...
I've instantly discovered it was only a dream, the chainsaw never existed but the pull rope uhm excuse me, the phone does.
Small thing. But a big step forwards from me. I said I had a heart attack in another thread. It has affected my mental health a lot, The tumble dryer was squealing like anything. I've just been and bought a new rear bearing for it and it's fixed now. Onwards and upwards
Blobber
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I turned mine 180 and put another fixing in it, kept it going for a good while
sako243
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Finally decided to do something about the locking pin brackets I keep breaking on the JCB. These were cnc plasma cut out of 20mm plate ages ago for me but the plasma left quite a taper and I oversized then anyway to allow a bush to be turned. Except I didn't have any steel suitable at the time nor a lathe big enough 
.
First port of call was investigating why one of the scrolls on the 4 jaw was very tight, it's taken a big knock at some point and split where the Allen key goes in so I took it out and put it in the 3 jaw and with some sand paper (and a little bit of turning to speed things up) knocked it back to size. It now turns nice a freely. Sorry no photos.
With that fixed I then chucked up the bracket and started boring out the centre from about 52mm to 70mm. The JCB ram is 1.75" / 44.4mm(ish) so that should give me about half an inch of meat around the bush and I'll weld it in.
One nice thing I've realised with the camlock chucks is i can leave this set up but put in the 3 jaw so I can making the bush next.
It's so nice having a DRO and full metric and imperial screw cutting gearbox. It was just a case of setting it to a very fine pitch and letting it go until it neared the chuck.
.First port of call was investigating why one of the scrolls on the 4 jaw was very tight, it's taken a big knock at some point and split where the Allen key goes in so I took it out and put it in the 3 jaw and with some sand paper (and a little bit of turning to speed things up) knocked it back to size. It now turns nice a freely. Sorry no photos.
With that fixed I then chucked up the bracket and started boring out the centre from about 52mm to 70mm. The JCB ram is 1.75" / 44.4mm(ish) so that should give me about half an inch of meat around the bush and I'll weld it in.
One nice thing I've realised with the camlock chucks is i can leave this set up but put in the 3 jaw so I can making the bush next.
It's so nice having a DRO and full metric and imperial screw cutting gearbox. It was just a case of setting it to a very fine pitch and letting it go until it neared the chuck.
Dr.Al
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Those of you following my Mini-Moravian build thread will be aware that I went to Wentwood Timber on Friday and bought a couple of big planks of Sycamore.
After choosing the boards, I got the roof bars out of the back of the car and plonked them on the rails. I then rummaged around in my bag of straps etc to find the security torque wrench that came with the roof bars so that I could fix the roof bars onto the roof. The torque wrench was conspicuous by its absence. Carolyn & I emptied the car out searching for it, but it was nowhere to be found. A bit of profanity ensued.
In the end, we got the wood back home by putting the back seats partly down (so they were up at a slight angle) and loading the 2.7 metre long planks (on edge) in through the boot. As the seats were slightly tilted up, they lifted the front end of the planks about 150 mm above the gear stick so I could still drive the car. Being a Passat Estate, the car was long enough that I could close the boot with the wood in place.
Once I got back home, I had a thorough search around for anywhere else the torque wrench could be but I didn't hold out much hope. The torque wrench has always lived in the car. To the best of my knowledge it has never been removed. A few months ago my car went in to a body shop for some work. Quite a few weeks after that, I noticed that the boot liner had gone from the car - presumably having been removed when they emptied the boot to do something or other inside. I suspect now that the torque wrench probably went at the same time.
I described the torque wrench as a security torque wrench. This is one of the screws that hold the bars in place:
Thankfully, with the bars off the car, it's quite easy to get mole grips around the outside of the screw so I could get it out. I searched around to see if I could buy a replacement torque wrench (even if it involved also buying replacement screws to match), but nowhere seems to stock them any more.
Having a lathe and a rotary broach is quite handy at times:
I can now fit/remove the screws with a 4 mm Allen key. Now obviously it isn't secure any more, but I've never attached anything to the roof bars in a lockable manner (I don't have a roof box or anything like that): I mostly use it for carrying hardwood planks or plywood sheets. If someone wanted to nick those, they'd just have to undo the ratchet straps and leave the roof bars in place. I guess there's a risk that someone nicks the roof bars themselves, but I'd expect that risk to be quite low (you'd have to be lifting the cover flap off the roof bars to see that the screws had been modified and then you'd have to have the right size Allen key). Also, I rarely leave the roof bars on the car for very long so again the risk is low.
I did consider just removing the outer washer/shroud thing (that shields the outside of the screw from being undone with pliers), but this felt like a more elegant solution and it's easier to use a t-handle Allen key than a pair of pliers. Also, if I can figure out the torque setting of the original torque wrench (I haven't found it yet), I could choose to use a torque wrench with an Allen key bit to tighten it to the correct torque.
After choosing the boards, I got the roof bars out of the back of the car and plonked them on the rails. I then rummaged around in my bag of straps etc to find the security torque wrench that came with the roof bars so that I could fix the roof bars onto the roof. The torque wrench was conspicuous by its absence. Carolyn & I emptied the car out searching for it, but it was nowhere to be found. A bit of profanity ensued.
In the end, we got the wood back home by putting the back seats partly down (so they were up at a slight angle) and loading the 2.7 metre long planks (on edge) in through the boot. As the seats were slightly tilted up, they lifted the front end of the planks about 150 mm above the gear stick so I could still drive the car. Being a Passat Estate, the car was long enough that I could close the boot with the wood in place.
Once I got back home, I had a thorough search around for anywhere else the torque wrench could be but I didn't hold out much hope. The torque wrench has always lived in the car. To the best of my knowledge it has never been removed. A few months ago my car went in to a body shop for some work. Quite a few weeks after that, I noticed that the boot liner had gone from the car - presumably having been removed when they emptied the boot to do something or other inside. I suspect now that the torque wrench probably went at the same time.
I described the torque wrench as a security torque wrench. This is one of the screws that hold the bars in place:
Thankfully, with the bars off the car, it's quite easy to get mole grips around the outside of the screw so I could get it out. I searched around to see if I could buy a replacement torque wrench (even if it involved also buying replacement screws to match), but nowhere seems to stock them any more.
Having a lathe and a rotary broach is quite handy at times:
I can now fit/remove the screws with a 4 mm Allen key. Now obviously it isn't secure any more, but I've never attached anything to the roof bars in a lockable manner (I don't have a roof box or anything like that): I mostly use it for carrying hardwood planks or plywood sheets. If someone wanted to nick those, they'd just have to undo the ratchet straps and leave the roof bars in place. I guess there's a risk that someone nicks the roof bars themselves, but I'd expect that risk to be quite low (you'd have to be lifting the cover flap off the roof bars to see that the screws had been modified and then you'd have to have the right size Allen key). Also, I rarely leave the roof bars on the car for very long so again the risk is low.
I did consider just removing the outer washer/shroud thing (that shields the outside of the screw from being undone with pliers), but this felt like a more elegant solution and it's easier to use a t-handle Allen key than a pair of pliers. Also, if I can figure out the torque setting of the original torque wrench (I haven't found it yet), I could choose to use a torque wrench with an Allen key bit to tighten it to the correct torque.
