Memmeddu
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Available over here.clean any oil of em and spray with cillit bang it will remove rust no probsi bead blast all my rusty stuff. comes up like new
So if it was serious I can try that
- Thread starter Memmeddu
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So if it was serious I can try that
brightspark
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yep you get it in a spray bottle. just stick them all in a dish and spray them a few times and wash it off . no kid it works https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=d...DDfEFsUiMS70wDT6SBwIzMKAHw8MB&sclient=gws-wiz
Memmeddu
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This would because one of my favorite cleaning products
Never had that problem.
The liquid goes black as it does its job.
If you leave the item in Evaporust in an Ultrassonic cleaner long enough it will remove paint.
I am not a fan of the spray on Evaporust gel.
Rust converters generally make ferrous metals go black but not in Evaporust in my experience, so far I have used 5 litres.
Misterg
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I'd be happier with that than acid/electrolysis.
MattF
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I've run plenty of old taps & dies through the electrolysis vat, & it's never dulled or damaged one.
Citric, I avoid using. Never been happy with the results from that.
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What's your method for electrolysis of numerous small objects like that? I've made a bath with carbon electrodes all round, but only tried it on single large things suspended from the top. Evaporust does sometimes leave a black residue, but it brushes off with a brass brush or Scotch-brite pad.
The taps and dies I'd use as is. Perhaps run them over the relevant threaded fastener to clean them. The danger is removing the cutting edges, as stated above. I have started coating all my taps and dies with lanolin grease. The thick chassis stuff is a bit too heavy, but the spray stuff gives a good coating and becomes waxy. I use Lanocare brand. A lot nicer on the hands than oil-based greases and sprays.
The taps and dies I'd use as is. Perhaps run them over the relevant threaded fastener to clean them. The danger is removing the cutting edges, as stated above. I have started coating all my taps and dies with lanolin grease. The thick chassis stuff is a bit too heavy, but the spray stuff gives a good coating and becomes waxy. I use Lanocare brand. A lot nicer on the hands than oil-based greases and sprays.
Memmeddu
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I've found a little problem.
Apparently European parliament banned cillit bang because it's unknown formula and health hazzardous potential...
Anyways I can get some from Amazon quite expensive but I've asked around in those days and it's a good product and worth the money.
Now I'm intended to buy a 6x750ml pack.
Are you able to show me the exact product I need to buy.
I think it's the lime scale removal with the orange sprayer but I'll wait for your answer
If you could find the active ingredient in it you might be able to buy it on its own or in another product.
Just googled it and it contains phosphoric acid which is great at removing rust. It's the active ingredient in most automotive rust removers.
An easy source is 'milk stone remover' which is used by dairy farmers to remove lime deposits in their milking machinery. You can buy it in a farm supplies store.
MattF
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Cast iron anodes, (old sash weights are a good source), & a metal mesh basket holding/containing the taps & dies.
brightspark
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just picked up a gallon of rust removal acid today got it for 12 quid 
Kram
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Do not use stainless as an electrolysis anode as you'll be making hexavailent chrome and poisoning yourself.
MattF
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I know.
Never did, never will.I found cast iron the best general all-rounder. Lasts much longer than steel, & close enough in type to most things going into the vat.
Really need to get a vat set up here. Not had one running since I was at the previous place.
Kram
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That mesh bucket looks more like stainless than cast iron?I know.
I found cast iron the best general all-rounder. Lasts much longer than steel, & close enough in type to most things going into the vat.
Really need to get a vat set up here. Not had one running since I was at the previous place.
The rusty parts go on the annode, + positive connection, where rust and then metal will be removed.
You can use anything on the cathode and it will be plated with whatever ions are floating about in solution. If your taps are on the cathode, they will be coated in mess.
Interesting.
Normally i use deox-c, but bought some evaporust to try out. Just a few bolts and washers. All went black. Took 3 days to get the rust off too. And cleaned the each day to "assist it" as literally nothing was happening.
Looking deeper, i think the formula for UK/EU is different as different part numbers. So far, very unimpressed.
Mixed up another batch of deox-c tonight to run a direct comparison.
MattF
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That's been my experience with evaporust also..
Onoff
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Things going black is my experience with Dex-C & citric acid tbh. A pig to get off and gets on your hands and everything else. A couple of thoughts:
1) Is the concentration, as in powder to water a factor?
2) That we seem to have different experiences, is hard / soft water an issue?
3) Gut feel is the type of steel is a big factor, maybe the higher carbon content stuff goes blacker? That's me just guessing
I've even tried a few drops of Fairy Liquid to assist lifting the sludge coat during and after.
I wonder if a fishtank aerator would help keep the black stuff mobile in the solution and at the same time speed the process up? A bit like a PCB bubble tank for etching.
1) Is the concentration, as in powder to water a factor?
2) That we seem to have different experiences, is hard / soft water an issue?
3) Gut feel is the type of steel is a big factor, maybe the higher carbon content stuff goes blacker? That's me just guessing
I've even tried a few drops of Fairy Liquid to assist lifting the sludge coat during and after.
I wonder if a fishtank aerator would help keep the black stuff mobile in the solution and at the same time speed the process up? A bit like a PCB bubble tank for etching.
