- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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Loads of small jobs this week making brackets and alignment bushings etc for a boat that was having trouble getting a shaft lined up.
Other things I have done included machining the fitting for the bottom of the Hyd tank and getting it welded in. Male thread 1.1/2 BSP, female 3/4 BSP.
Also got a start on some paddle box doors for the Waverly paddle steamer, still quite a bit of work to do on them.
Other things I have done included machining the fitting for the bottom of the Hyd tank and getting it welded in. Male thread 1.1/2 BSP, female 3/4 BSP.
Also got a start on some paddle box doors for the Waverly paddle steamer, still quite a bit of work to do on them.
Bullet2012
Member
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- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
Are you working for Nortn Korea or Elon Musk ?Been rolling a load of cones this week, various sizes and taper angles.
This is one of the more awkward ones.
Design decided to have the door laser cut in despite my advice not to.
You can see the distortion around it.
View attachment 471277
Not so much made, but (re)assembled.
Back plate is now back in it's cabinet, and all the key components mounted.
Currently dithering over whether I'll need to mount the 240V MCBs/Fuses/Contactors/Terminals along the bottom, as I suspect if I mount them on the DIN rail, I'm going to run out of DIN rail for the low voltage stuff, but I'm not sure there will be that much low voltage terminals required, as I think most stuff will go straight to the breakout boards...
Back plate is now back in it's cabinet, and all the key components mounted.
Currently dithering over whether I'll need to mount the 240V MCBs/Fuses/Contactors/Terminals along the bottom, as I suspect if I mount them on the DIN rail, I'm going to run out of DIN rail for the low voltage stuff, but I'm not sure there will be that much low voltage terminals required, as I think most stuff will go straight to the breakout boards...
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- 6,290
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- Ireland
Assuming the shaft lined up when it was first made, has the hull distorted with seagoing, or something?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,788
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
It is a heavy built GRP boat so no chance of it moving.
It was a new shaft and coupling, there was a very long unsupported length and now the marine engineer has had to put an intermediate bearing in but the strange thing was it is over 20 years old and previously the old shaft lined up no problem without an intermediate but for some reason he could not get the new one to do so.
henry Kadzielski
Member
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- 1,230
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- Australia Wollongong
My two cents worth. I actually have been trying to complete this job, so some before and after pics
Hydraulic pipe work on this vessel.
After pipe work installed
At stern before
And after
Now this had been stopped by a slight alignment problem with the local pilot boat exhaust components not aligning.
So we had to do some light alterations
Basically chop everything into it's components and start afresh.
Ah that looks better. Oh by the way it works, doesn't leak and boat is back in service
Hydraulic pipe work on this vessel.
After pipe work installed
At stern before
And after
Now this had been stopped by a slight alignment problem with the local pilot boat exhaust components not aligning.
So we had to do some light alterations
Basically chop everything into it's components and start afresh.
Ah that looks better. Oh by the way it works, doesn't leak and boat is back in service
DennisCA
Member
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- 2,042
- Location
- Finland
Saw a brembo package recently:
You can't trust brands anymore.
I got a pack of ridex brake pads at home they smell like cat **** for some reason. I don't think a cat has wee'd on them no.
Second coat of epoxy on the carbon sleeve today, looking good. Unfortunately its going to get painted as the UV resistance of epoxy isnt good & this has to take a lot of stress, it is unstayed & has to carry a 110sq ft Lugsail which has a lot of power. Mast is 5m long 110mm dia at the deck tapering to 60mm at the top.
The carbon sleeve is supplied as a layflat tube & will expand to about 130mm dia & when pulled tight will go down to about 40mm.
Wooden frame is so the black polythene can be dropped over it to hold the heat in from the oil filled radiator. Epoxy likes it warm!
The carbon sleeve is supplied as a layflat tube & will expand to about 130mm dia & when pulled tight will go down to about 40mm.
Wooden frame is so the black polythene can be dropped over it to hold the heat in from the oil filled radiator. Epoxy likes it warm!
Bullet2012
Member
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- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
Some good ideas being implemented, cant wait to see the finished article and some of it in use.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- 12,970
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- NE London - UK
The replacement carb for my twist'n go is not a like-for-like replacement. The inlet hose diameter is a couple of millimetres smaller. Easily solved with a few wraps of self-amalgamating tape.
Secondly, the throttle cable bracket is in a different position so, rather than modifying the bracket or stripping back the outer on my throttle cable, I spent a happy couple of hours making an adaptor plate from a small piece of Dexion angle from my "might-come-in-useful" bin.
I'll try the fit on the morrow.
Secondly, the throttle cable bracket is in a different position so, rather than modifying the bracket or stripping back the outer on my throttle cable, I spent a happy couple of hours making an adaptor plate from a small piece of Dexion angle from my "might-come-in-useful" bin.
I'll try the fit on the morrow.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,788
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Made some more progress on the paddle box doors, got the dog stops and wedges cut but never took a pic.
Also machined the boss's for the dog spindles
Also some acetal top hats to isolate the fixing bolts as the doors will be bolted to the steel hull.
Got the boss's welded in.
Also machined the boss's for the dog spindles
Also some acetal top hats to isolate the fixing bolts as the doors will be bolted to the steel hull.
Got the boss's welded in.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
FOOOOOOOOD.
BBQ chicken stuffed Nam Bread.
Cookies.
Cake.
BBQ chicken stuffed Nam Bread.
Cookies.
Cake.
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- 13,552
- Location
- England
Ocean Gate wanted a new one.Is it a new submarine?
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
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- 2,574
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- Gloucestershire, UK
More photos and details in the build thread: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/another-mostly-hand-tool-woodwork-project-wip.139963/
Newlands
Member
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- 779
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- Sussex, UK
Finally got to the testing stage of my thicknessing sander, in spite of a 3D printer that fought me for two days. I’ll probably have to remake the dust shroud and belt guard at some point in the future - I only had some very thin ali sheet 0.6mm and it really needs 1mm I think, although it is surprisingly rigid now it’s all together. And I only had pink PLA for the printer, so another reason to print new ones!
Only a quick test, with a strip of beech, and I fully expected it to chuck it back at me and/or destroy its belt, but it worked fine. More play time tomorrow, to see what it’s like with the dust extractor connected.
Only a quick test, with a strip of beech, and I fully expected it to chuck it back at me and/or destroy its belt, but it worked fine. More play time tomorrow, to see what it’s like with the dust extractor connected.
Memmeddu
Member
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- 5,546
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- Italia Sardegna
Spent the last 4 weeks restoring a Bosch 1103, nowadays equivalent is the GBM 24-2 E.
It's an industrial type drill, which can be used both handheld or on a stand.
Most likely 50 years old.
It has a #2 morse taper spindle and 2 speeds transmission.
On yesterday after 3 weeks of sanding and polishing, I've finished to restore the plastics.
This morning I've washed the aluminum gear housings after having them in a diesel bucket since day one.
They came out pretty clean and the original paint wasn't that bad, just sprayed a very light coat of paint to cover small scratched areas where paint came off.
Just discovered that its original auxiliary handle is completely missing.
I've proceeded to check the thread pitch on the gear housing where it belongs.
Figured out it has 3/4" pipe threads, I've traveled few miles to get a 50cm long 3/4" iron pipe ,then to my local decathlon and bought a pair of bike handles.
Back home late...
I've fired on the old Makita cutoff and cut a 14mm long bit out of a 40x8mm flat bar because, the drill needs a speed selector lever too...
Back to the handle I've placed the pipe in the vice and cut a 300mm length using the even older BAIER handheld cold cutting saw .
Crooked cut ,I still have to learn how to use it correctly.
So I've used again my Makita and straightened the cut using it like a surface grinder.
After that I've used my loved Hitachi grinder to champer one of the end to fit the handle easier.
For the same purpose I've put the handle into boiling water for few minutes and sprayed the pipe with silicone oil both to lubricate and provide little bit of protection.
Slided the handle onto the pipe and this drill has finally an handle.
Lastly I've assembled the mechanical components.
Despite all that I feel like I'm stuck as there's a lot to do yet to see the end of tunnel.
It's an industrial type drill, which can be used both handheld or on a stand.
Most likely 50 years old.
It has a #2 morse taper spindle and 2 speeds transmission.
On yesterday after 3 weeks of sanding and polishing, I've finished to restore the plastics.
This morning I've washed the aluminum gear housings after having them in a diesel bucket since day one.
They came out pretty clean and the original paint wasn't that bad, just sprayed a very light coat of paint to cover small scratched areas where paint came off.
Just discovered that its original auxiliary handle is completely missing.
I've proceeded to check the thread pitch on the gear housing where it belongs.
Figured out it has 3/4" pipe threads, I've traveled few miles to get a 50cm long 3/4" iron pipe ,then to my local decathlon and bought a pair of bike handles.
Back home late...
I've fired on the old Makita cutoff and cut a 14mm long bit out of a 40x8mm flat bar because, the drill needs a speed selector lever too...
Back to the handle I've placed the pipe in the vice and cut a 300mm length using the even older BAIER handheld cold cutting saw .
Crooked cut ,I still have to learn how to use it correctly.
So I've used again my Makita and straightened the cut using it like a surface grinder.
After that I've used my loved Hitachi grinder to champer one of the end to fit the handle easier.
For the same purpose I've put the handle into boiling water for few minutes and sprayed the pipe with silicone oil both to lubricate and provide little bit of protection.
Slided the handle onto the pipe and this drill has finally an handle.
Lastly I've assembled the mechanical components.
Despite all that I feel like I'm stuck as there's a lot to do yet to see the end of tunnel.
