Stuff you have fixed today

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Well the day was busy, so why not do more.

When I got it, it didn't work.
Oh look a new bulb was fitted and................


Ok, The old one was very tight to remove, but a bit of applied force and it was free.

BBQ rattle can paint, as it had rust killing elements.

Fixing the earth point.

Just passed the PAT.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This Coleman Petrol fueled Iron came my way.

It had all the accessories as well.

3 Dead air pumps.

Reading the original instructions gave me hope that it was worth a risk to fire it up.


Please use the correct fuel, modern petrol is not good for you or the iron. Coleman do the fuel.

Just about visible is the blue flames on the heater element, the generator as they call it.

Nice and warm.
Does it work?

Yes it does, did a nice job on work shirts, will I use it?
No.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

The "replacement" drill I bought when mine went kaput turned up yesterday evening..

Immaculate condition, but unfortunately it had been stored for so long that the chuck had seized shut.

I had several spare genuine Makita UNF ½-20 chucks, but it resisted being soaked in penetrating oil overnight, and all other more violent attempts to open it (including a 3ft scaffold pole on a footprint wrench, which just back drove the treble planetary gearbox), making it impossible to get the chuck off conventionally, sooooooo...

Angle grinder time!

Chopped through the chuck just above the mounting point, then was a simple job to get an impact driver at the retaining screw, and set an impact wrench with a torx bit loose on the remains of the chuck body.

No harm done, just wanted a quick wipe down before reassembly.

I should have a new gearbox for my old one next week and will fit that with the OEM keyless chuck.

But I'm curious to see how the keyed chuck works out... I have wanted a keyed chuck cordless for aaaages, but nobody sells one.

 

[mechman]

View attachment 469012View attachment 469013

The "replacement" drill I bought when mine went kaput turned up yesterday evening..

Immaculate condition, but unfortunately it had been stored for so long that the chuck had seized shut.

I had several spare genuine Makita UNF ½-20 chucks, but it resisted being soaked in penetrating oil overnight, and all other more violent attempts to open it (including a 3ft scaffold pole on a footprint wrench, which just back drove the treble planetary gearbox), making it impossible to get the chuck off conventionally, sooooooo...

View attachment 469015

Angle grinder time!

Chopped through the chuck just above the mounting point, then was a simple job to get an impact driver at the retaining screw, and set an impact wrench with a torx bit loose on the remains of the chuck body.

View attachment 469016

View attachment 469017

No harm done, just wanted a quick wipe down before reassembly.

I should have a new gearbox for my old one next week and will fit that with the OEM keyless chuck.

But I'm curious to see how the keyed chuck works out... I have wanted a keyed chuck cordless for aaaages, but nobody sells one.

Does the drill press work OK when the machine it's supported on is on spin?

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

Does the drill press work OK when the machine it's supported on is on spin?

Tumble drier, so it's just a bit warmer round your legs...

 

[DennisCA]

Repaired? Well I modified this tool. It's supposed to slot into the cams for the cam shafts but the engine mount bracket got in the way. I didn't want to remove the engine mount bracket after having removed so much already, was getting annoying...

So I welded on some flat bar while holding the parts in a vice.

Then some new holes

Remove the old bits which get in the way of the bracket.

Verify that they still are in line with each other. They lined up exactly like this on both sides before any modifications were made.

And check if it now fits, and it does without having to disassemble yet another part.

Though in fairness removing the engine mount would have been faster most likely.

 

[qwakers]

in one day i've gone from the previous pic to...

after lunch...

and final level.

helped greatly by the tip taking the view that its garden waste so no limits on how much i can bring (6 trips with both car and trailer full...) and me pressganging a much fitter than me friend to come give me a hand...

after the tip closed at 4 i also took a full trailer and car to dads yard to finish filling the hole in.

so thats 7 full loads in one day. not bad going. about a load a hour.

just started grading it out. no more material should need to be removed, just moved about.

its pretty nearly there now, just have to get the grade right, compact it with the wacker plate, pour the retaining wall, put ground fabric down, sharp sand then block paving. once done ill pour a concrete wedge along the front and job jobbed.

 

[bricol]

And until you get a dropped kerb, if a neighbour parks across it . . .

 

[qwakers]

thats where i park and have never had anyone park there. in 8 years...

 

[bricol]

thats where i park and have never had anyone park there. in 8 years...

ooooh . . . that's stuffed it . . . somebody will dump a fully legal camper van and disappear . . .

 

[qwakers]

perfect. i could use a new camper

 

[Chillitt]

perfect. i could use a new camper

You could fill it with dirt...

 

[Mick Annick]

View attachment 468797


Well the day was busy, so why not do more.




View attachment 468798

When I got it, it didn't work.
Oh look a new bulb was fitted and................


Ok, The old one was very tight to remove, but a bit of applied force and it was free.


View attachment 468802


BBQ rattle can paint, as it had rust killing elements.



View attachment 468804

Fixing the earth point.


View attachment 468805

Just passed the PAT.



View attachment 468806

Haven’t seen one of those in years!

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

That definitely wasn't an absolute bugger to refit.

The Makita approved method of torquing the chuck, clamp an Allen Key in the chuck, wedge the drill between vice and bench, and pull the trigger for 1 second in low speed.

Little bit of tru-blu because I couldn't find the locktite...

Bam! Old faithful is back in action alongside it's Kronenburg Monstrosity of a baby brother.

Best of all in my excitement this was all done wearing a pair of very light coloured chinos, which somehow have avoided getting any grease, carbon, or thread locker on them...

 

[Keithmac]

On with a Piaggio MP3 500 at the minute.

Customer came in on Friday complaining of "loose" steering, not ideal!.

Had a quick look and gave him a price for the job and he's dropped it off today to be repaired, said I would have to strip it down first due to cost of the suspect parts..

The joints under the rubber bellows are best likened to a tie rod end really, both worn out and £240 each!. No alternative other than genuine parts either.

The steering bar is driven from the middle via a boss and pair of needle roller bearings, a common weak point due to corrosion and another £100 in parts to fix.

He asked me to fit a back tyre, mentioned the "swingarm" (exhaust hanger and suspension support) bearing may need replacing, turns out someone has already been in there and made a royal mess of it all..

After taking the wheel off I noticed the rear caliper had been missing a pad retaining pin for quite some time, and the slider pin was not bolted to the carrier!. To top it off pads were worn down to the metal.

Managed to find some 2nd hand bits and make it all safe.

Just waiting for my gold plated tie rod ends to turn up and a few other bits to finish the job tomorrow.

I'll be having a good look around the rest of it before taking a test ride!.

 

[RichardM]

Looks like adding a grease nipple in the design would be useful.

 

[dobbslc]

Cheap economical commuting?
Scary stuff!

 

[bricol]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

 

[Seadog]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

Plain bushes are much better suited for use in a swinging arm.
I can't think of a single British bike that used needle rollers. Maybe the new Triumphs do, but they're too modern for me.

 

[tigdlo]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

For automotive I would use CV joint grease as it is for oscilating parts.