JMS1972
Member
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- 1,205
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
I think some of the posh CO2 laser mirrors are polished copper?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,804
- Location
- Cumbria
Yeah i believe so. So trying to cut or engrave it reflects it back into the lens and/or source. Bigger fibre lasers are supposed to be ok at limited power but i was told by an IPG man "don't cut it on your laser if you have another option"
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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- 3,619
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- North Lincs
My little F1 will mark copper but at 2w it's unlikely to do damage. I am looking at getting the F1 ultra which is 20w fibre and they say it will cut thin copper but that's not why I want it!
sako243
Member
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- 4,205
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- My mansion in Wales
Would painting it help? An alternative might be to cover it in the photo resist used for PCB manufacture, that'll be a different finish to help prevent reflection and can be stripped away relatively easily. For example we use negative photo resists which can be stripped away with sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner).
Brad93
Member
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- 19,096
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- Essex, United Kingdom
I think any paint would instantly burn away.
You'd probably find a matt finish or brushed finish would give better results. Or a laser film.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- 10,633
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- Keeler crater
I think it's the puddle of molten metal that's reflective. I was told that's why the ally is harder to laser than steel, because the puddle is more reflective.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,804
- Location
- Cumbria
Yeah this is my understanding also. I think a coating might help a little tiny bit, but not once it's down inside the cut, and may even have a detrimental effect like millscale on steel does - absorbing energy into itself rather than heating the proper metal.
selectedgrub
Member
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- 3,467
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- New Zealand
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,326
- Location
- Going Away.
Turned some skip items into usable items.
To these.
Most had the screws, fixings and some had damaged.
To these.
Most had the screws, fixings and some had damaged.
- Messages
- 13,548
- Location
- England
Finished off installing a little platform extension today. Made to match existing near as practical.
New section of lowered rolled handrail added lower to allow ingredients to be tipped in easier and access for blades to be changed etc.
New section of lowered rolled handrail added lower to allow ingredients to be tipped in easier and access for blades to be changed etc.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,953
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Making not made. A lock box to go on an old ledged and braced door. Luckily I've loads of this mahogany cill for when I mess it up! A very lightweight, 3D printed trial lets me know that it'll fit nicely.
Now just to recreate in timber. It will likely involve a jig and router. The lock box is nominally 17mm wide. I do have a 17mm spade bit. That would mean chiselling. All I have is a neglected box of chisels bought years ago from Makro. Rusty and blunt and I'm no good at sharpening them.
Now just to recreate in timber. It will likely involve a jig and router. The lock box is nominally 17mm wide. I do have a 17mm spade bit. That would mean chiselling. All I have is a neglected box of chisels bought years ago from Makro. Rusty and blunt and I'm no good at sharpening them.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,953
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
If a serious question then appearance and I'm guessing strength. The old, black painted door (I think oak now from a little test drill) will be sanded where the lock block is going then screwed and foaming PU glued:
gaz1
Member
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- 20,301
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- westyorkshire
the way yours is looking your either going to need a longer stem on your key or you will be hole drilling just to get your key deeper within the door just to get to the lock
you apear to be at 1 1/2 inches just to get to the entrance of the lock and yet you still need to go deeper
with a metal framed lock your only needing to go to a depth of 1" + 5mm and your at the entrance of the lock
i wouldnt do what your going to do i would make it out of steel and then i can use the steel to also strengthen the door as well
even if you was to use angle iron all the way down the door it would strengthen the whole door up to fit 2 sets of looks into it and the frame alone around the locks will further strengthen your door
if you look at security gates with locks within them there low profiled this is the method i used
to secure the lock and also strengthen around the lock within a solid structure
8ob
Member
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- 14,437
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- Nescient in the vale
For river/stream work its best to tether wedges,bolt a chain and spike to them, way too expensive to lose.
Kram
Member
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- 8,057
- Location
- Sussex
Hydraulic chainsaw? 
Interesting! For underwater use?
Interesting! For underwater use?The one I lost was one of these. I had to wedge a mini carabiner instead which was a pain.
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