@selectedgrub wait I assume.Do we ask for an explanation now or wait for the reveal?
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Sergei Slovenija
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I wanted to glue drywall to gypsum putty, but I mixed up the bags at the store and took tile adhesive. The glue will still be useful; the kitchen backsplash will be made of porcelain stoneware 120*60. Therefore, in order not to waste a day off, I used PU foam. I think this will be enough.
In general, there is not a single flat surface, not a single right angle, not a single horizontal and vertical.
The leftover drywall was stored vertically and became a little crooked. I was able to level it out.
In general, there is not a single flat surface, not a single right angle, not a single horizontal and vertical.
The leftover drywall was stored vertically and became a little crooked. I was able to level it out.
Sergei Slovenija
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A break for an hour, the PU foam has polymerized, and the plaster sheet can be strengthened, correcting its curvature.
The second sheet has a hump of almost 2 cm. It is well wetted, laid on plastic film on the floor with the convex upward, and pressed down with boxes of things. Take a break for a couple of days to level out.
Sergei Slovenija
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finyuk2005
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I had a field car once that i found the head of a nail to fit perfectly in the hole, then just screwed the fitting back in the abs pump, somehow it never leaked!!
my cv joint had let go and the driveshaft whipped the brake line in half!
Memmeddu
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Imagine the grips getting caught in the wheel ...
I've already made the cap.
I'll remove the entire caliper and the flex line ,put the cap .
Fill the oil reservoir pump few times,then 20 km of road at roughly 20 km/h
Memmeddu
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My car has no abs but the pump despite has 2 circuits (left and right in a cross pattern layout) has only one reservoir.
Clutch is on the same reservoir.
Hopefully I'll get it home.
Memmeddu
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One of the most traumatic driving experience.
I've cut a piece of 25 mm cold rolled at roughly 50 mm length.
Found the centre using a vernier.
Centre punch
Fixed the piece in the small 100mm 3 jaws chuck .
Put it in the drill press (useless piece of scrap metal)
Centre drill
Drilled at 4.5mm using a parkside bit roughly 30 mm deep .
Then used a 12 mm and drilled just enough to make the cutters touch for its entire width
Then tried to drill using a parkside 9 mm bit nothing to do.
So I've took all the courage I've got , and used the 9 mm bit from the gühring decimal set .
Truly afraid to break it do to the fact that the chuck wasn't fixed on the drill press and everything was moving do to the horrific runout of the drill .
It drilled it like if was drilling through plastic .
The best 50 euro spent ever (got the set for 50 euros instead of 600+)
Then check if the taps and dies set I've bought recently had a M10X1 tap cause it's mainly SAE , and it did.
So I've put the tapered tap in one of the tap wrenches I've restored.
Started the thread helping myself to go straight using the quill of the drill press .
Cut half through the hole and switched to an Emuge machine tap to have chip evacuation since it was a blind hole .
Cleaned using a belt file .
Overall satisfied with the taps & dies set despite its cheapness.
And glad to have bought a bunch of brand name machining related tools.
I'm now convinced to have to buy a 150 euros Dormer drill bit set .
Anyways trip to where I've left the car .
Lifted , removed the wheel ,cut the flex line which has fail because rubbing on the wheel.
Undo the flare fittings ,
Threaded the cap I've made on the steel line .
Filled the reservoir.
Pumped the pedal and purged the line not enough cause it still have air in it but enough to brake.
Then the journey home has been traumatic.
Cause of the braking distance and the fact the car turns right do to the fact most of the braking happens up front and all the pressure is applied on the right wheel .
I've been never been so scared driving at less than 30 km/h
I've cut a piece of 25 mm cold rolled at roughly 50 mm length.
Found the centre using a vernier.
Centre punch
Fixed the piece in the small 100mm 3 jaws chuck .
Put it in the drill press (useless piece of scrap metal)
Centre drill
Drilled at 4.5mm using a parkside bit roughly 30 mm deep .
Then used a 12 mm and drilled just enough to make the cutters touch for its entire width
Then tried to drill using a parkside 9 mm bit nothing to do.
So I've took all the courage I've got , and used the 9 mm bit from the gühring decimal set .
Truly afraid to break it do to the fact that the chuck wasn't fixed on the drill press and everything was moving do to the horrific runout of the drill .
It drilled it like if was drilling through plastic .
The best 50 euro spent ever (got the set for 50 euros instead of 600+)
Then check if the taps and dies set I've bought recently had a M10X1 tap cause it's mainly SAE , and it did.
So I've put the tapered tap in one of the tap wrenches I've restored.
Started the thread helping myself to go straight using the quill of the drill press .
Cut half through the hole and switched to an Emuge machine tap to have chip evacuation since it was a blind hole .
Cleaned using a belt file .
Overall satisfied with the taps & dies set despite its cheapness.
And glad to have bought a bunch of brand name machining related tools.
I'm now convinced to have to buy a 150 euros Dormer drill bit set .
Anyways trip to where I've left the car .
Lifted , removed the wheel ,cut the flex line which has fail because rubbing on the wheel.
Undo the flare fittings ,
Threaded the cap I've made on the steel line .
Filled the reservoir.
Pumped the pedal and purged the line not enough cause it still have air in it but enough to brake.
Then the journey home has been traumatic.
Cause of the braking distance and the fact the car turns right do to the fact most of the braking happens up front and all the pressure is applied on the right wheel .
I've been never been so scared driving at less than 30 km/h
I've driven home with no brakes more than once (the last time being a 100 mile journey). I had the manual handbrake & the journey was on a Sunday on rural roads, while the pedal went nearly to the floor (I knew I might have one at least partial football operation, but daren't test that, preferring to keep that "just in case").
It makes you appreciate just how much you need the brakes even for careful, steady, relaxed driving.
Without the brake pedal, you need to be extremely proactive & planning ahead, using your gears and observation to make progress without ever getting into a situation where there wasn't enough gap to stop using gears & handbrake only.
It's demanding & tiring having no brakes!
Memmeddu
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Perfectly right.
I sat on the couch at roughly 11pm when I've wrote the reply you quoted.
I was so stressed and tired I've fell asleep in matter of seconds wake up at 6AM this morning.
Fortunately I've asked my boss to stay home today explaining what happened and he understood.
I've just finished to replace the flex lines at front , didn't bought the rear ones yet but I will replace them too.
Purged and feels right, have to try this afternoon going to the gas station to inflate the tires
Hood
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I have 3 roller systems to do, two are replacements of current ones as they are not the best and they want ones the way I do them, the third will be to replace a davit.
Starting on the first one today by making up the roller, the boat should be coming out of the water next week.
Bored some 8 1/2" dia x 16mm thick plates to 48mm ID and then machined some 50mm dia stainless to press into them and weld.
Using Magmaweld 316 rods, they are ok but not as nice as the Esab ones I had previously.
Then into the lathe to true them up and machine a step that will fit inside some 8" NB Sch 40 pipe.
Tapped the first one in and welded it upright,
Lifted onto the bandsaw for welding the second end.
Starting on the first one today by making up the roller, the boat should be coming out of the water next week.
Bored some 8 1/2" dia x 16mm thick plates to 48mm ID and then machined some 50mm dia stainless to press into them and weld.
Using Magmaweld 316 rods, they are ok but not as nice as the Esab ones I had previously.
Then into the lathe to true them up and machine a step that will fit inside some 8" NB Sch 40 pipe.
Tapped the first one in and welded it upright,
Lifted onto the bandsaw for welding the second end.
I'm not necessarily convinced it reduces dust build up - when it gets sticky, there's now double the amount of crap stuck to it, just at an angle.
