- Thread starter Ross365
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keithski122
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i don't know if its front or rear wheels your doing or front or rear wheel drive but maybe go around the other way and take the driveshaft out and clean the senso without removing it. Most times I've removed sensors they've been seized in as the rust makes the hole smaller and it grips on the sensor, had to smash them out and clean out the hole with a die grinder.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I love my Irwin bolt grips. I've the expansion set too that takes it to 10 pieces:
www.machinemart.co.uk
Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Set - Machine Mart - Machine Mart
www.machinemart.co.uk
Smallfry
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In Scandinavia the cars are well treated with rustproofing products.
Also, he might have spent two days removing it, but neglected to mention or film it.
roofman
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No they are a game changer in circumstances like the OP,s....I have a SF and use it all the time.
not done it yet
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Someone bought me one as a chrissy prezzy. Never been opened. Likely never will.
The bolts will either undo or eventually break off. Those Irwin socket things look like they may work for a rounded-off hex? Either way, be sorted out ready to do a repair job if/when needed. I use left-handed drills if the studs break off flush.
I’ve gone through a couple of reluctor rings (rust underneath cracks them). That usually gives uneven braking action, felt at the pedal. Never had trouble with the sensors (yet).
Pray tell more - what's an SF ?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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There's quite a few on here...
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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Thank goodness- I was thinking it may need Special Forces hard nut rather than some hardware
dobbslc
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Silly xxxxers ?
not done it yet
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Not very appropriate for around a sensor? Might be OK for heating the set screw when just minus its head.
123hotchef
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Why do you want to examine the sensors anyway? Are they not working?
Why’s that? The sensor itself is likely plastic so won’t heat directly. Or is it the transfer of heat you’d be worried about?
Or something else?
not done it yet
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I wrote ‘around a sensor’. Did you miss that? Plastic and 5-600 Celsius do not mix well.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Sad fu...
No - I didn't miss it.?
I also asked "Or is it the transfer of heat you’d be worried about?" I'm asking as I genuinely don't know how localised the heating is from inductance heating? If you spend minutes heating up the area with a blowtorch, is it going to be hotter and less localised than if you use a 2 second burst of Mig? I thought one of the major advantages of inductance was they get used when you can't use gas.
roofman
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Most sensors are held by a fixing to the side, if using a smaller induction coil you can get the heat really localised. Mine is used mostly for motorcycle repairs where naked flame is far too damaging to surrounding parts.
Ross365
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Success; got one side out using a 6 point 3/8th and the other with a 6 point 10mm. On one side, the sensor lifted out as I withdrew the bolt, and pretty filthy it is too. There was a load of "rust" stuck to the sensor pole, most of which just wiped away with my finger (see pics). The other sensor has stayed in place and for the moment I left it there, adding just a drop of my "releasing agent of choice".
What I am a bit concerned about though is that the was clearly some kind of gasket material under the sensor, which has just broken in to many pieces (was it a thin metal shim that turned 100% to rust?). Now, is it the case that some kind of replacement gasket needs to be used to get the correct spacing between the sensor and the ring???
What I am a bit concerned about though is that the was clearly some kind of gasket material under the sensor, which has just broken in to many pieces (was it a thin metal shim that turned 100% to rust?). Now, is it the case that some kind of replacement gasket needs to be used to get the correct spacing between the sensor and the ring???
