Pretty sure it's not a two speed though.I believe, and I may be wrong, that a 2 speed motor can’t run dual voltage? At least that’s what I was told when I bought my Harrison
I'm assuming it's this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284997858587
Pretty sure it's not a two speed though.I believe, and I may be wrong, that a 2 speed motor can’t run dual voltage? At least that’s what I was told when I bought my Harrison
ThankyouTo disagree with @hermetic I think it's wired star at the moment as that looks like the star point is brought to a single post.
Using the wonders of MSPaint for a second I've highlighted the post I think is the star point in green (looks like the three black wires with red, blue and yellow tags on go to it) and three other posts which the red wires go to and they then have the 3 brown wires off to the contactor/control. If I'm right you need to leave the brown and red wires alone and move the three black wires so they are on the same posts as the red and brown. It looks like the red wires are also tagged in which case it should be as easy as just ensuring you don't "match" the tags, ie yellow to blue, blue to red, red to yellow. If the motor then goes the wrong way round swap two of the brown cables.
View attachment 368174
Of course I could be making this all up and I'm totally wrong.
Better photos of the motor plate, wiring terminals and that label on the inside of the junction box and we should be able to help you sort it all out.
I read it as dual speed not dual voltage. It’s been a long day!!Pretty sure it's not a two speed though.
I'm assuming it's this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284997858587
I note there is also a forward/reverse lever on the front as well, if you're using a VFD then you can't use that as it stands. There should be nothing (apart from cable obviously) between the VFD and motor.
Personally I would take that front panel off, mount the VFD within the base (if it's anything like mine I would rig up a shield of some kind to ensure no oil drips in, it's not a lot but there are a few drops) and wire up that lever to the low voltage wiring on the VFD to actually control it. That way it will look and function exactly the same as the original but with the advantage of a VFD.
Yes, I have looked again, and at the new pics, and I am pretty sure you are right, I had assumed (bad idea, never do it!) that the three browns were the other ends of the windings whereas they are actually the incoming phases! It makes sense that it was connected in star, as most three phase(415V) motors are. Where 110v is the commmon single phase voltage 240v is three phase between phases voltage, and a motor connected in delta runs on it, as there is only one winding between each phase, In star, there are two windings between each phase so the motor takes twice the voltage. This is a simplification of the situation, electrical pedants need not comment;-)To disagree with @hermetic I think it's wired star at the moment as that looks like the star point is brought to a single post.
Using the wonders of MSPaint for a second I've highlighted the post I think is the star point in green (looks like the three black wires with red, blue and yellow tags on go to it) and three other posts which the red wires go to and they then have the 3 brown wires off to the contactor/control. If I'm right you need to leave the brown and red wires alone and move the three black wires so they are on the same posts as the red and brown. It looks like the red wires are also tagged in which case it should be as easy as just ensuring you don't "match" the tags, ie yellow to blue, blue to red, red to yellow. If the motor then goes the wrong way round swap two of the brown cables.
View attachment 368174
Of course I could be making this all up and I'm totally wrong.
Better photos of the motor plate, wiring terminals and that label on the inside of the junction box and we should be able to help you sort it all out.
Its currently wired for 415V in high voltage configuration wired in star and with high voltage (star) and low voltage (delta) instructions on the motor. It's going to be.Take a photo of the data plate on the motor to see if it has 240v listed
You can cut mains power to a VFD all day long, they are designed to cope with that, no risk of damage.One last word on the emergency stop, you should have one but it's not recommended to cut the mains power to a VFD and *may* blow it up. Also the lathe may stop *slower* (ie freewheel) if you cut power rather than hit the stop button. For that reason I personally have mine to both effectively hit the stop and disconnect all of the controls. This doesn't however disconnect mains although functionally is no different to the "factory" e-stop on other machines I have (for example my pillar drill). You may however decide that it's better to take the (probably small) risk of the VFD blowing up and just go for disconnect it.
You can cut mains power to a VFD all day long, they are designed to cope with that, no risk of damage.
Id be suprised. The big input caps and monitoring will protect it. I'd be extremely suprised if that warning was not about the connection of motor to VFD. If that is interupted the output stage will get shorted, new mosfet/igbt and driver time, costing more than the unit.There is a specific warning about not doing it in the HY manual.
Id be suprised. The big input caps and monitoring will protect it. I'd be extremely suprised if that warning was not about the connection of motor to VFD. If that is interupted the output stage will get shorted, new mosfet/igbt and driver time, costing more than the unit.
However Im happy to be wrong if you could check the wording? Perhaps these chinese ones are not as good as I thought.
I'd honestly think thats a chinglish translation/mistake but fair enough, that is what it says!
So, do not cut input or output of the vfd. If you want an E stop, do it by the vfd controls (which probably dont have a suitable input for that..)