The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,987
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- Going Away.
To late .
I have arranged for a shipping container or 4.
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
I have arranged for a shipping container or 4.
Arc Tourist
Member
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- 5,009
- Location
- Wales
Thank you Mr. Vark, I knew we could always rely on you to be on the ball !
Arc Tourist
Member
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- 5,009
- Location
- Wales
Thanks for the reply, yeah feeling quite rough. Hope you are doing better ?
MikeBB1970
Member
- Messages
- 189
- Location
- Hayling Island UK
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,987
- Location
- Going Away.
It is ok.Thank you Mr. Vark, I knew we could always rely on you to be on the ball !
Ok the bug is looking after you.
MikeBB1970
Member
- Messages
- 189
- Location
- Hayling Island UK
Some new items and two car boot items (on the right)
The L648 has rocketed in price so I got a small bottle, my previous bottle was cheap and large but went solid after some years.
The L648 has rocketed in price so I got a small bottle, my previous bottle was cheap and large but went solid after some years.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,435
- Location
- North Lincs
I am feeling quite good today cheers, my sister in law and her husband came to visit and cheered me up somewhat
they are a great couple and always manage to put a smile on my face.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,937
- Location
- Kent, UK
Found this at the recycle today, got this and a box of heavy M14 bolts and M8 long coach bolts, brand new AssaAboly 5 lever deadlock in the box for £5.
But what is it?
View attachment 363971
Beer tap
Luggsey
Member
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- Devon
Bugger, didn't see the barrel!
julianthegypsy
Member
- Messages
- 4,362
- Location
- Cirencester
Yep, beer tap that goes straight into the barrel, knocked in with a hammer, at high speed or the results are spectacular!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,987
- Location
- Going Away.
Beer/Keg tap.Found this at the recycle today, got this and a box of heavy M14 bolts and M8 long coach bolts, brand new AssaAboly 5 lever deadlock in the box for £5.
But what is it?
View attachment 363971
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,987
- Location
- Going Away.
Some new ones are made from Beech as well.
They are fun inserting. Place on bung in barrel and give them one hard and confident blow from a decent lump hammer. If all is well the bung goes in the barrel and the tap seals OK. If not you hit your thumb, tap goes all over the place and you loose a firkin of beer !
Remember to close the tap first !!!
Remember to close the tap first !!!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,987
- Location
- Going Away.
Don't use a lump hammer.
A decent rubber mallet or raw hide mallet will do a better job.
25.4_mechanic
Member
- Messages
- 1,046
- Location
- Germany, southwest
... finally the longed-for stamp/sticker at the Unimog:
I had already shown the new four-circuit protection valve that had become necessary ...
... with its function the inspector agreed today.
Furthermore he had to criticize that on some brake lines the outer zinc coating had blossomed - since nowhere the pipe wall thickness was affected, it helped here - without removing the lines - sanding, rust protection primer, black top coat and over it some lithium saponified multi-purpose grease - of course in neon color, so that he really got to see something:
... not easy to show in the picture, but again it was enough for him (how he ever found this corner so deep in the system during the original inspection two weeks ago is still a mystery to me).
But the real dirty work was something else: Probably following an intuition, (but more likely his experience) he grabbed during the test in the right front wheel arch and pushed hard upwards ..... after the rust patches, which then fell to the ground, I knew already that I had lost.
During the damage assessment at home, it then became clear that generations before us had repeatedly welded on smaller and larger "band-aid" sheets in this area, which now fell to our feet when we tried to unearth bare, durable sheet metal.
We needed a big solution, because it was only after the original bend upwards that we could find durable metal to weld to.
It then became a CAD job (cardboard assisted design) and with the resulting artwork, I then had a sheet metal bent by someone who could do it (every day, all day) - yet we still had to piece too.
I had the village blacksmith do the actual spot welds, because A) he has longer arms than I do, B) that's where the testing takes place, like the re-testing, and C) one has an ally with authority on ones side when one has to sell it to the inspector.
Certain portions of sheet metal move against each other here, unfortunately the most solid anchor points were not available to us - we had to turn up front to get to the next solid area.
In the engine compartment, seen from the front, the same sheet of 0.8mm:
Our rules are like this: If significant welding work is to be carried out on the cab for the TÜV/MOT, this must afterwards be completely visible during the inspection (spot welds at least every 25mm), only a light rust protection is permissible - here red-brown rust protection primer.
Only after successfully passing the assessment can the affected areas be permanently preserved - here light gray body sealing compound.
Another seal with this body sealing compound will follow tomorrow, then black or yellow protective coating, then permanently elastic underbody protection.
The blue plug (not original, we did it) has the following purpose:
The new sheet created a cavity again. I wanted access during the welding so that I could flood everything inside with water worst case
It didn't come to that, now I use the plug to flood the cavity behind it with plenty of rust protection.
Another year of Unimog TÜV/MOT
Carsten
--
I had already shown the new four-circuit protection valve that had become necessary ...
... with its function the inspector agreed today.
Furthermore he had to criticize that on some brake lines the outer zinc coating had blossomed - since nowhere the pipe wall thickness was affected, it helped here - without removing the lines - sanding, rust protection primer, black top coat and over it some lithium saponified multi-purpose grease - of course in neon color, so that he really got to see something:
... not easy to show in the picture, but again it was enough for him (how he ever found this corner so deep in the system during the original inspection two weeks ago is still a mystery to me).
But the real dirty work was something else: Probably following an intuition, (but more likely his experience) he grabbed during the test in the right front wheel arch and pushed hard upwards ..... after the rust patches, which then fell to the ground, I knew already that I had lost.
During the damage assessment at home, it then became clear that generations before us had repeatedly welded on smaller and larger "band-aid" sheets in this area, which now fell to our feet when we tried to unearth bare, durable sheet metal.
We needed a big solution, because it was only after the original bend upwards that we could find durable metal to weld to.
It then became a CAD job (cardboard assisted design) and with the resulting artwork, I then had a sheet metal bent by someone who could do it (every day, all day) - yet we still had to piece too.
I had the village blacksmith do the actual spot welds, because A) he has longer arms than I do, B) that's where the testing takes place, like the re-testing, and C) one has an ally with authority on ones side when one has to sell it to the inspector.
Certain portions of sheet metal move against each other here, unfortunately the most solid anchor points were not available to us - we had to turn up front to get to the next solid area.
In the engine compartment, seen from the front, the same sheet of 0.8mm:
Our rules are like this: If significant welding work is to be carried out on the cab for the TÜV/MOT, this must afterwards be completely visible during the inspection (spot welds at least every 25mm), only a light rust protection is permissible - here red-brown rust protection primer.
Only after successfully passing the assessment can the affected areas be permanently preserved - here light gray body sealing compound.
Another seal with this body sealing compound will follow tomorrow, then black or yellow protective coating, then permanently elastic underbody protection.
The blue plug (not original, we did it) has the following purpose:
The new sheet created a cavity again. I wanted access during the welding so that I could flood everything inside with water worst case
It didn't come to that, now I use the plug to flood the cavity behind it with plenty of rust protection.
Another year of Unimog TÜV/MOT
Carsten
--
droopsnoot
Member
- Messages
- 1,358
- Location
- South Cheshire, UK
It's similar here - if a welded repair is required for MOT, when you present the car for re-test the welds must be visible. If it's a patch to an existing panel - for example a sill - then it must be seam welded around all edges. Oh, and suspension components cannot be welded to pass a re-test, so if my subframe has a hole in it, it either needs welding up before the test, or replacing if it fails. Or it was, last time I had to re-present a car after rust repair.
