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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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A Wheel Tappers Lamp.
Compete, but finished with a tar based paint.
It will not stop the rust, just cover it up.
Clean the rust off and a plate of brass was soldered on.
Not easy, as the whole lamp is soft solderd tin plate.
Even the fuel tank was holed.
Tidy fix, but it did cause issues later. It was a fraction to wide to fit inside again. But a few tweks of the plate had it fitted.
Painted and more brass sheet.
.
I have ordered a cork bung.
The light is quiet bright for the size of the unit.
Compete, but finished with a tar based paint.
It will not stop the rust, just cover it up.
Clean the rust off and a plate of brass was soldered on.
Not easy, as the whole lamp is soft solderd tin plate.
Even the fuel tank was holed.
Tidy fix, but it did cause issues later. It was a fraction to wide to fit inside again. But a few tweks of the plate had it fitted.
Painted and more brass sheet.
.
I have ordered a cork bung.
The light is quiet bright for the size of the unit.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,337
- Location
- Going Away.
This was a fun restoration.
Getting it to bits was cahallenge, dur to the thickness of the paint.
Bit It did allow me to uncover this.
To remove the paint I had to boil the whole lot in Caustic.
In Paint, yesl @slim_boy_fat my small friend is there.
Behind the Split pin and washer is a tough compression spring. But my toool for fitting this fitted and made fixing the pin a peace of cake.
Brad93
Member
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- 19,102
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Got the sprockets all fitted along with new shoulder bolt and new idler plate on this dough moulder.
The idler sprocket now has a double angular contact bearing heat shrunk in instead of a bronze bush.
The idler needs to have some float so I machined a few different bronze spacers until it had about 2.5mm of movement. Till I got on-site I wasn't sure what the offset needed to be. Big washer was needed to cover the open side of the bearing. Couldn't get a sealed one. Worked out absolutely perfect to be honest.
Original plate was 5mm and bent so I made a new one from 10mm.
Thanks to @Milkybars for doing the broaching. I finally have my own broaching press after collecting one from @Arclikeharrypotter today. Thanks again mate.
The idler sprocket now has a double angular contact bearing heat shrunk in instead of a bronze bush.
The idler needs to have some float so I machined a few different bronze spacers until it had about 2.5mm of movement. Till I got on-site I wasn't sure what the offset needed to be. Big washer was needed to cover the open side of the bearing. Couldn't get a sealed one. Worked out absolutely perfect to be honest.
Original plate was 5mm and bent so I made a new one from 10mm.
Thanks to @Milkybars for doing the broaching. I finally have my own broaching press after collecting one from @Arclikeharrypotter today. Thanks again mate.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,291
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I got medieval with the Mitsubishi today!
Bloody things have a horrendous rattle on idle due to a manufacturing fault that Mitsubishi won't admit to!
In as little as 35k miles the drive coupler for the balance shafts wears and sounds horrific, ultimately it shatters the drive gear and that in turn can smash the timing chain case
Although there's nothing wrong with the original design according to Mitsubishi they sell a new upgraded version for 3K if you want
So there's a lot of people that have done a balance shaft delete.
Here's the little pig.
It normally fits in here,
The sump needs to come off then the balance shaft unit has to come out to get the coupler out, it's a hefty lump!
Here are my gears, they look fine so can go back in.
Everything except the coupler goes back in and the sump resealed.
The difference when I started the engine is almost unbelievable! It really has fixed it
Reports say there's a small amount of extra vibration and many people have done a lot of miles with this balancer removed with no problems so I'm hoping that's the end of it.
Beer time.
Bloody things have a horrendous rattle on idle due to a manufacturing fault that Mitsubishi won't admit to!
In as little as 35k miles the drive coupler for the balance shafts wears and sounds horrific, ultimately it shatters the drive gear and that in turn can smash the timing chain case
Although there's nothing wrong with the original design according to Mitsubishi they sell a new upgraded version for 3K if you want
So there's a lot of people that have done a balance shaft delete.
Here's the little pig.
It normally fits in here,
The sump needs to come off then the balance shaft unit has to come out to get the coupler out, it's a hefty lump!
Here are my gears, they look fine so can go back in.
Everything except the coupler goes back in and the sump resealed.
The difference when I started the engine is almost unbelievable! It really has fixed it
Reports say there's a small amount of extra vibration and many people have done a lot of miles with this balancer removed with no problems so I'm hoping that's the end of it.
Beer time.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
More work - replacing the belts on my chipper. They get worked so hard that rubber belts will last about an afternoon, I have to get these special Kevlar wrapped ones from the USA. And they’re good! These have lasted 10 months. The design is annoying in that you have to remove the engine to fit new belts.
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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- 2,786
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
Would a pulley with 3 belts instead of 2 mean less wear?
Olderisbetter
Member
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- 3,938
- Location
- Wolverhampton
Fixed the brakes on the moggy minor, not very complicated just a pain to go to the master cylinder but gave us an excuse to clean and grease a few bits.
I'll be in the area on Saturday! for 12 days working at the festival
I’d say hallo....if I can recognise you,forum members are rare as dinosaurs s**t around here
.cardiffrob
Member
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- 1,637
- Location
- Wales, Llantwit Major.
Finally managed to get our RB-211 spinning up today. Lots of internal damage to repair, smashed Carbon Fibre bits and punctured metalwork. Starter was dead and Fuel Flow Transmitter were duff.
If you see a balding bloke at the woodland Trust stand making models with kids... That's me!I’d say hallo....if I can recognise you,forum members are rare as dinosaurs s**t around here
DennisCA
Member
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- 2,042
- Location
- Finland
Despite not having a gas powered lawn mower I still ended up with having to fix one. My mother in laws mower stopped working, she had someone look at it and they did not get it working either but charged her 50€. They claimed the carb was gunked up and needed cleaning and referred her to a small engine shop who said 70€ for that. She was thinking of throwing it away and buying a new one. I said I could look at it first, a gunked up carb should not be terribly hard.
Took it apart, didn't really think about how things were set up, but maybe someone already sees the problem?
I just photo'ed the links and such for when I went to put it back, but did notreally think about it. I cleaned the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner as well and then went to put things back together. Which is when the light started coming on.
When I went to put back the links as per the photos I just couldn't see how this was physically possible to be like this. The throttle link on it's own connecting to the governor, that was was fine. But when the choke lever link was put back, it just couldn't work. Infact the link was a bit short and ended up on an angle... The link could not actutate the choke like this either. I am no engine expert but should it not be articulated separately from the throttle?
Well this was how it came to me so no wonder it wasn't working. I found the lever for the choke link was actually on the front of the engine near the spark plug, so that link should have been oriented 90 degrees from the throttle link. I tried fitting it that way and it fit perfectly. Reassembled and worked in some grease in the gaskets since I was reusing them and it started on the first pull.
I have no idea if that huge gasket between the carb and cylinder is factory, but there's enough material there to make a spare in the future...
Took it apart, didn't really think about how things were set up, but maybe someone already sees the problem?
I just photo'ed the links and such for when I went to put it back, but did notreally think about it. I cleaned the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner as well and then went to put things back together. Which is when the light started coming on.
When I went to put back the links as per the photos I just couldn't see how this was physically possible to be like this. The throttle link on it's own connecting to the governor, that was was fine. But when the choke lever link was put back, it just couldn't work. Infact the link was a bit short and ended up on an angle... The link could not actutate the choke like this either. I am no engine expert but should it not be articulated separately from the throttle?
Well this was how it came to me so no wonder it wasn't working. I found the lever for the choke link was actually on the front of the engine near the spark plug, so that link should have been oriented 90 degrees from the throttle link. I tried fitting it that way and it fit perfectly. Reassembled and worked in some grease in the gaskets since I was reusing them and it started on the first pull.
I have no idea if that huge gasket between the carb and cylinder is factory, but there's enough material there to make a spare in the future...
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Location
- Going Away.
£2.
This tin plated ex MOD Tiley Lamp came my way last week.
I brought it for spares. But over coffee a friend laid a challenge on me.
Fix it with what spares you have in the workshop.
I haggled one new part for a safety check, a known good vaporiser. This allowed me to pressure test the whole unit, before I made a go of getting working.
First replacement part, a replacement cup washer. Yes, that pile is the old one.
Spot the issue with the old vaporiser. Normaly I junk them and fit a know good one. This time I hada go at fixing the old one.
Yes I got it working, but to be honest it is not worth the time spent.
A New, from my spares bin. Aftermarket mantles work, but I do find original Tiley mantles work better, last longer and give a better. light.
The valve was striped, cleaned and the old seals reused. Some say you should replace them. But theses looked new-ish. I am guessing that some one brought a seal kit and had a go at fixing it.
This is the second try at getting it lit.
The first try showed that the burner was not working correctly. So it was removed and cleaned.
