So I’ve snapped 3 accessories trying to remove 5 on my rear wheel of my Vw air cooled camper,there always tight but never this bad. When I replace them I smear copaslip on the threads and under the head,that hasn’t stopped it ,also slide the telescopic handle in to its shortest length to tighten,R/H threads on both wheels and both have this problem,any remedies to avoid this occurring?Thanks.
- Thread starter nickk
- Start date
Torque Multiplier Wheel Nut Wrench Set Heavy Duty 3/4" 1" Lugnuts Hgv Remover 5051990996069 | eBay
Torque Multiplier Set. Multiply your strength using this labour saving wrench. 1 X wrench. Provides constant pressure preventing rounded lug nut corners. Maximum torque: 3800nm. 1 X 4-point/ square socket (for square dual lug studs) 1"-1".
www.ebay.co.uk
brightspark
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mate bought a 3 foot powerbar from machine mart to get his off after the clowns over tightened them
Onthespotwelding
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Could the wheel bolts be Cross threaded?
New hub and wheel bolts should cure it?
New hub and wheel bolts should cure it?
CompoSimmonite
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I'd use a 3/4" drive and length of scaffolding !
That’s how I shifted them.
Threads are perfect,metric fine.
That's what I have mine for - its carried in the van in case of a puncture. They are 3/4" drive and the sockets are tough (tho not impact rated so don't use them with a dugga dugga gun).I have a battery impact,that won’t touch them,4’ bar did.torque multiplier sounds more compact than carrying a 4’ bar around France and Spain.Read my post,I stated R/H threads.
My lug nuts are 27mm & I think the smallest socket is 24mm - so of you need smaller you'll need to get an impact socket to use.
PhillipM
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You shouldn't need a 3/4" bar on an old wide 5 VW setup - hell a 3/8" setup would be enough to torque and untorque them - they should only be like 70lb or so - are they being overtorqued and stretching or has someone already stretched them (especially if lubricating them it's very easy if you keep just going FT)
roofman
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I would tend to stay away from copper slip or lubricants on wheel nuts myself...just crack them a few times a year is what i do and try to avoid letting tire monkeys put them on with impact guns.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Gently put an impact socket on the nut add a six inch extension & 12 " T bar , using an axle stand or jack to bring it level & parallel to the ground . Put on a three foot power bar & take up the strain to undo ( LH or RH Thread ? ) . Once you have a bit of pressure on , smartly hit the power bar about five to six inches up from the six inch extension with a long handled 2 pound engineers hammer and more often than not it will allow you to crack off the tightness of the nut .
During my apprentice days way back in the 1966 to 69 .. we had it hammered into our skulls that you should never ever lube or grease wheel nuts unless the manufactures recommends you do it , for the grease dries and can set like mortar with the road & brake dust .
Not even copper & silicone , High temp helicopter man made lubricant grease , or graphite was to be used .
The instructors for my apprenticeship had over 1200 years of experience between them , they were I often found out right and worth listening to .
I've often undone 2" AF nuts on Antar's , Dyson & Tasker tank transporter trailers doing just that when the drivers were using a officially supplied cranked four foot lever on a massive socket to tighten & undo the wheel nuts .
Wire brush the studs clean and wash the nuts out in petrol then let them completely dry off before putting them back on all nuts should be hand free tightness before you put the wheel on
Start the hand tightening at the top and once hand tight rotate that nut to the bottom so the wheel is pulled evenly onto the hub . Do this in cross diagonal selection till all nuts are hand tight and there is no slop between the wheel dish & the hub then use a torque wrench to tighten them up half a turn at a time again in cross diagonal selection . when are all tight lower th vehicle to sound ground ensure the brakes are on and finish the tightening in cross diagonal selection with a torque wrench .
I've had two dangerous air spanner monkey incidents on my MPV's with three of us traveling in it , all due to RAC and Kwikfit tyre monkeys not knowing how to put wheels on vehicles so things are 100 % safe. Both the MPV's had alloy rims and being over torqued at the first tightening point actually bent the rim or distorted the wheel nuts chamfered precisely angled seat , so that in about 120 miles once the rims had heated , expanded and sheared the studs or twisted even more.
On the last occasion ... ripping the dishes off the studs at 60 mph whilst I was towing a 27 foot caravan . Leaving the LHF front wheel only retained by a few turns of nut on a single stud before I could safely stop on the hard shoulder of the M6 . The job paper work off the RAC says you must check the tightness of the wheel nuts within 80 to 100 miles of them putting a wheel back on .. being 80 % disabled at 22.00 hrs. made that impossible but it was not pointed out to me nor was the docket marked that I'd been advised of such a thing.
I now have a decent Norbar torque wrench in the caravan always slackened off to zero so the spring is not compromised and an engraved white plastic tag showing the required torque setting for both car & caravan wheels and the cross diagonal method of tightening them. I'm now quite willing to call someone out at the stated mileage to check the tightness of the nuts tightened up by their poorly trained staff .
During my apprentice days way back in the 1966 to 69 .. we had it hammered into our skulls that you should never ever lube or grease wheel nuts unless the manufactures recommends you do it , for the grease dries and can set like mortar with the road & brake dust .
Not even copper & silicone , High temp helicopter man made lubricant grease , or graphite was to be used .
The instructors for my apprenticeship had over 1200 years of experience between them , they were I often found out right and worth listening to .
I've often undone 2" AF nuts on Antar's , Dyson & Tasker tank transporter trailers doing just that when the drivers were using a officially supplied cranked four foot lever on a massive socket to tighten & undo the wheel nuts .
Wire brush the studs clean and wash the nuts out in petrol then let them completely dry off before putting them back on all nuts should be hand free tightness before you put the wheel on
Start the hand tightening at the top and once hand tight rotate that nut to the bottom so the wheel is pulled evenly onto the hub . Do this in cross diagonal selection till all nuts are hand tight and there is no slop between the wheel dish & the hub then use a torque wrench to tighten them up half a turn at a time again in cross diagonal selection . when are all tight lower th vehicle to sound ground ensure the brakes are on and finish the tightening in cross diagonal selection with a torque wrench .
I've had two dangerous air spanner monkey incidents on my MPV's with three of us traveling in it , all due to RAC and Kwikfit tyre monkeys not knowing how to put wheels on vehicles so things are 100 % safe. Both the MPV's had alloy rims and being over torqued at the first tightening point actually bent the rim or distorted the wheel nuts chamfered precisely angled seat , so that in about 120 miles once the rims had heated , expanded and sheared the studs or twisted even more.
On the last occasion ... ripping the dishes off the studs at 60 mph whilst I was towing a 27 foot caravan . Leaving the LHF front wheel only retained by a few turns of nut on a single stud before I could safely stop on the hard shoulder of the M6 . The job paper work off the RAC says you must check the tightness of the wheel nuts within 80 to 100 miles of them putting a wheel back on .. being 80 % disabled at 22.00 hrs. made that impossible but it was not pointed out to me nor was the docket marked that I'd been advised of such a thing.
I now have a decent Norbar torque wrench in the caravan always slackened off to zero so the spring is not compromised and an engraved white plastic tag showing the required torque setting for both car & caravan wheels and the cross diagonal method of tightening them. I'm now quite willing to call someone out at the stated mileage to check the tightness of the nuts tightened up by their poorly trained staff .
premmington
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Wheels nuts/bolts - "gotta go in dry".
I suffer this all day long - every day!
3/4 impact guns - 1" impact guns - 3/4" breaker bars and pipe extension to get wheels light cars and vans.
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Only today I had to cut a 20" alloy wheel off an aging Range Rover with a 9" angry grinder. Because the locking wheel nut just would not release - I kid you not.
I suffer this all day long - every day!
3/4 impact guns - 1" impact guns - 3/4" breaker bars and pipe extension to get wheels light cars and vans.
----------------
Only today I had to cut a 20" alloy wheel off an aging Range Rover with a 9" angry grinder. Because the locking wheel nut just would not release - I kid you not.
