pressbrake1
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I’ve got a SpencerThe bird crap will be more tenacious than the rust
I’ve got a SpencerThe bird crap will be more tenacious than the rust
What makes you say it's totally different? The MSDS (Usually the go-to for this kind of thing) doesn't give anything away but it says the pH is slightly acidic (6.1, about the same as dilute citric I'd imagine) and a quick Google says its Tannic acid.
I’ve got a Spencer
I would have got all the ways of that lathe de-rusted and shiny in less time than it's taken to produce this thread, and without the use of any de-rusting chemicals or pickles too.
I would have got all the ways of that lathe de-rusted and shiny in less time than it's taken to produce this thread, and without the use of any de-rusting chemicals or pickles too.
This is not complicated stuff. A dulled carbide scraper would take care of the majority of it and the remainder could be rubbed off with wire wool or fine scotchbrite.
It beginning to sound like its going to be another major project.....Yes, I certainly wouldn't be doing anything with it that involves plastering it with acid or strippers.
Knock it into a bucket then carefully restore each part individually. Having said that, I would definitely suggest not moving any of the controls or sliding parts until it had been taken apart. No telling what's under all that grime and rubbing those crusty dry surfaces together could do a tremendous amount of damage before you even start.
It beginning to sound like its going to be another major project.....
It beginning to sound like its going to be another major project.....
...I could just set up a belt drive from the main spindle to the gearbox until I get gears cut...
I did experiment with electrolysis a few years back but tends to be line of sight to the anode so citric acid worked better for me , I have a spare battery charger and can give it a go again. What about the chucks ? I tried one a few years back for my raglan Lathe and using citric it dissolved some of the surface of the main body the jaws were fine and it is accurate but looks terribleElectrolysis would be safer but light surface rust should wipe off after a good soak in WD40/diesel/paraffin etc. Wipe it down with an oily rag.
There really shouldn't be anything worse than light surface rust. I think you've bagged yourself a diamond in the rough here.
Really all depends on the condition of the bedways and the spindle bearing(s).
<edit> citric won't attack hardened steel any more than it would regular mild steel but it is an acid so it will etch any surface eventually. Rust is easier for acid to remove (lit. reduce) but I would be wary of letting it eat away at a precision surface until you have exhausted less aggressive techniques.