Stuff you have made today

[slim_boy_fat]

It doesn't work and believe me the abuse I give one or two of them is quite severe.

Aye, we do things differently up here.

sometimes a repair can add to the look of an item and make it more interesting.

I agree, I like the bow-ties.

Either that’s a really tiny workmate, or that’s one MASSIVE bowl! How big was the lathe???

Beat me to it.

 

[Jay1st]

Sunday finished welding the Samurai's new floor, some of the coating on the underside started smoking and filled up the car.
Did not realise until i started coughing and stingy eyes. ended up with poisoning, massive headache, pain in the neck, and of course throwing up all i had eaten.
Now feeling better, got a medical exam this afternoon to see how it goes.

 

[bigegg]

A kydex press + a "first attempt" at a sheath.




Heated to 150c in the oven.
Note to self: needs a silicone sheet on the baking tray, otberwise it sticks!

The press is two squares of plywood + three thicknesses of poundshop "camp sleeping mat" on one side (for a flat backed sheath).
Clamp the knife between the plastic sheets and leave to cool.



It *sort of* welds together - will probably be better when i get the heating process down pat.
The brown marks are dried resin i think - as i just used a small offcut ive
had floating around in the shed for a while as a mixing board.

I need to put some rivets around the edge of the knife, and then cut to shape.

But...
Considering i have around 60sq m of the stuff, i can afford to practice.

 

[mpats]

Either that’s a really tiny workmate, or that’s one MASSIVE bowl! How big was the lathe???

I think the bowl is about 15inches across, I'll check it later. It's a record CL3, older green one they do them in a horrible greyish color now.

sometimes a repair can add to the look of an item and make it more interesting.

Yes it can, much nicer than throwing something away, definitely adds character.

 

[bigegg]

And finished.




The Katsu "rivet drill tool" is not so good.
Its well made: strong and solid.
Its just badly designed.
You need three hands, especially if backing washers are needed.
And it won't auto eject the pins, neccesitating a strip down every time.

 

[DAPPH]

A friend asked me to make some small handrails for his steps so I made a start today by cutting some 5mm 5083 Aluminium.

View attachment 248808

A view of the plasma doing its thing. The view is through the Optrel Crystal but I still can't get a true to life view, the camera seems to auto adjust no matter what I do and it doesn't come out anywhere as near as clear as you can see with the eye.

Hopefully I will get a chance this week to bend the tube and weld things together and then get it into the powder coaters.

If you have one or two 500 watt flood either side on the job as well it might show things up better .

 

[DAPPH]

A kydex press + a "first attempt" at a sheath.

View attachment 248865


Heated to 150c in the oven.
Note to self: needs a silicone sheet on the baking tray, otberwise it sticks!

The press is two squares of plywood + three thicknesses of poundshop "camp sleeping mat" on one side (for a flat backed sheath).
Clamp the knife between the plastic sheets and leave to cool.

View attachment 248866

It *sort of* welds together - will probably be better when i get the heating process down pat.
The brown marks are dried resin i think - as i just used a small offcut ive
had floating around in the shed for a while as a mixing board.

I need to put some rivets around the edge of the knife, and then cut to shape.

But...
Considering i have around 60sq m of the stuff, i can afford to practice.

Could you warm a line along a sheet with hot angle iron , fold the sheet so there is no riveted seam on the back of the knife . Clamp tight as before , then when it's been set & gone cold set a router and ledge up side down and use the router to trim a 11 mm margin bigger than the blade from the point to the ricossa ( sp ? ) drill thread holes every 6 mm , use a blunted chisel to join the holes and sow it up tight with a waxed black linen thread or 80 pound woven Dacron line ?

 

[bigegg]

Could you warm a line along a sheet with hot angle iron , fold the sheet so there is no riveted seam on the back of the knife . Clamp tight as before , then when it's been set & gone cold set a router and ledge up side down and use the router to trim a 11 mm margin bigger than the blade from the point to the ricossa ( sp ? ) drill thread holes every 6 mm , use a blunted chisel to join the holes and sow it up tight with a waxed black linen thread or 80 pound woven Dacron line ?

That's an idea.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

More rust to play with.



But it was intact, a quick test showed it held pressure.

So it took it home.



A make I knew from the past.
I saw one repair, the outlet pipe was welded, all other fixings had been brazed.

A quick test, showed it held pressure, but there was a few leaks, the control valve and from the gauge.




All in bits.
The control valve had been stripped and the leak fixed.
This point I did not know of a place that could supply me spares at a good price.



Oh bother.
Not only had the thread on the gauge had been striped the boss in the tank had gone as well.
So a plan was made to have new made and the gauged fixed with a friend.

But afterwards I found a place that supplied OE parts at a good price.



The handle, soft where paraffin had been allowed to steep in it, as well as water.
So here it is soaking in Acetone, this drives the water out, as well as the paraffin.
After 49 hours it was removed and it soon dried in the heat of the sun.
You then soak it in thinned down resin and this gives you a hybrid wood/resin handle.




I know I could make a new one, but this way was more fun.




Note to self, check spares in sent items, they had not only sent a new gauge, but a new boss. This I found out after I had made one with help.



The repair, the metal took the silver solder very well.



The parts after paint and fixing new seals. Plus a new wick, well a Beatrix stove wick trimmed to fit.



All assembled. The paint is meant to be heat resistance on the shield and the burner coil.
Halfords were not all that honest about that.
A email has been sent complaining about the so called heat resistance range of paint.
But it looked good.



In full flame and getting hotter with each passing second.
The only way to control the flame is with the valve, takes a bit of time to get used to it. But it can be done.

Please note.
The patio slabs were being kept wet with a hose pipe as during the trials and test burns you sometimes got a jet of burning fuel or a jet of fuel.
The running water stopped any risk of a burning fuel fire.
But foam and powder fire extinguishers were to hand.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I knew, there is very few paints out there that are suitable for the hot end of the weed burner.
I also know that cleaning those items of metal up can lead to more trouble.

So after de greasing and de-rusting. This is how the shield came out.


Pitted and surface rust spreading again fast.

So, as rust is red oxide, we remove the oxygen and make black oxide.



Cooling off and waiting for a coat of Halfrauds not really heat resistance paint.



Heating the coil up, to remove any water and convert the red to black oxide.

 

[Tangledfeet]

Wasn't today but on Saturday afternoon I made twenty-eight 6013 stubs and some pretty (well to me, anyways) patterns and despite it having absolutely no use to humanity whatsoever I actually found it mindful and relaxing. Found a couple of 5/8" offcuts and had to straighten one with a few runs on the back before going nuts on the fillet.

Please, roast my welding and don't hold back...

 

[RichardM]

Managed my first 2 bow-ties today. This is a bowl a turned about 10-15 years ago, was from a section (or cookie as the yanks call them) of sycamore. Not surprising it split, so insert 2 oak bow-ties to stabilize then I'll cut them back and tape it up then I can pour some resin in, probably use some copper powder in it. I'll probably throw it back on the lathe and re-turn it once done, maybe cut it a bit deeper.
View attachment 248845

What about a wedge of contrasting wood put in, bottom bow tie turned with the wedge to bowl shape, but the upper one made of ebony, internally turned but the outer carved as a bow tie?

 

[mpats]

What about a wedge of contrasting wood put in, bottom bow tie turned with the wedge to bowl shape, but the upper one made of ebony, internally turned but the outer carved as a bow tie?

Sounds like an interesting option, but I've glued the 2 oak ones in and taped it up for resining so I think this time, I'll go with resin.
Turns out the bowl is 27cm across and 14 high. The other one I did for a friend at the same time was larger diameter but not so deep.

Finished the retirement gifts today, bottle and glass are in, just need to split pin and lock them up tomorrow. Need to borrow my wirelocking pliers back from a friend. Big split pins and wire locking for the big bolts. Still toying with the idea of locking nuts on the capheads for added enjoyment.

The above one needs 2 rivets putting in the plain posts as well. The "bolt" going through the top is actually welded and the shaft is a high carbon bush so would take some cutting, shouldn't take him to long to take out the bolts, take off the nuts and remove the rivets to get the glass out.

 

[Kram]

I spent the morning preparing the bike fairing, more sanding and last coat of primer. All ready. Then afternoon swearing at compressor, ended up having to threadlock some of the fittings as ptfe wouldnt seal them.

Then I was ready to do a test panel, I couldnt find anything else, so the lathe cover got it. Paint was a small touch up bottle that I got in 2008 for my first car. There was only 20ml as it was drying out, thinners fixed that, should have put a lot more.

Panel got 5 minutes of label goo removal (not enough!) and sanding, no primer or filler on the old chipped paint. The visible runs are old epoxy not paint. It is dark metalic green basecoat so needs clear on top.

I need a ton more practise, maybe a better spray gun the fan pattern was tiny.

 

[Guzrik]

First real job for my TIG, a tensioner for fencingwire, absoutely impossible with my MIG welder of course.
15mm steel tube took galvanising off on the lathe first.
Worked really well on the first two, but got overconfident and snapped the third wire, just before it got too dark.

 

[Nick DV]

First real job for my TIG, a tensioner for fencingwire, absoutely impossible with my MIG welder of course.
15mm steel tube took galvanising off on the lathe first.
Worked really well on the first two, but got overconfident and snapped the third wire, just before it got too dark.

Maybe it's just me, but the pictures aren't displaying!

 

[bigegg]

Maybe it's just me, but the pictures aren't displaying!

Same here.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Try this.

 

[bigegg]

Kydex holder for my 6" bahco combi square.



I need to make+fit a hanger to attach it to my tool belt(s)

Good news, though.
I found my air riveter, so went much quicker today.

 

[nickk]

Not made,just repaired,the left wheel,(idler) removed,second time in 10 months,as it’s developed 2mm run out,so a possible faulty sleeve repair,it’s too big for my lathe so gone back to the original supplier,while it’s apart,partially removed the drive wheel to replace the 3 driving belts,this saw is 50+ years old,and cuts oak trunks 20’x 5’ diameter!