DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Had to enlarge the picture a lot to see it better ..... Isn't that the 3/16 ths AF SE OJ model ? 
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Had to enlarge the picture a lot to see it better ..... Isn't that the 3/16 ths AF SE OJ model ?
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
No NOT a condom ....It's a pad of soft lint free material , usually a couple of balls of cotton cloth wrapped in a couple of squares of fine cotton bed sheet so the cloth inside makes a bulging pad . use a cable tie to pull the ball tight over the balled up cotton .
Have a look here :- instructables.com/id/How-to-French-Polish-1/
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 20,313
- Location
- westyorkshire
mine would have laughed at us saying you are one anyway
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,332
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- Going Away.
Google French Polish rubber.
It is a bundle of cloth with a lint free cloth on the outside, used to apply oil or French polish.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Still not got the tubes rolled by the boatyard but I did get the front sliding door made and welded in place.
Down,
And up.
Also was going to be welding some tabs onto the hex bolts of the 220mm stainless clamps so a spanner wasn't required as they will be removed at least once a day but then decided to put a wing nut on the opposite end and weld in place. That means they can still be used with a spanner if require, only thing is they can not be dismantled but that won't be a problem for this application.
A friend then came in asking if I had any bits of aluminium he could take home to fashion some sort of trolley out of. It is for his son who has a joinery business and often has to struggle up the side of houses with patio doors and double glazed units. I said instead of him messing around with grinders and hacksaws that I could just cut it on the plasma. He told me what he was thinking of so I drew it up in Fusion360 and once he was happy with the design it got cut on the plasma and welded up. Still have a clamping mechanism to make, I have an idea or two but he will have a word with his son to see what he thinks would be best.
Ok the quick model drawn in fusion, it consists of two bits of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle, a flat plate to give the width and a couple of sides where twin wheels will be mounted on an axle.
A few minutes on the plasma and a bit longer welding and this is it so far.
Down,
And up.
Also was going to be welding some tabs onto the hex bolts of the 220mm stainless clamps so a spanner wasn't required as they will be removed at least once a day but then decided to put a wing nut on the opposite end and weld in place. That means they can still be used with a spanner if require, only thing is they can not be dismantled but that won't be a problem for this application.
A friend then came in asking if I had any bits of aluminium he could take home to fashion some sort of trolley out of. It is for his son who has a joinery business and often has to struggle up the side of houses with patio doors and double glazed units. I said instead of him messing around with grinders and hacksaws that I could just cut it on the plasma. He told me what he was thinking of so I drew it up in Fusion360 and once he was happy with the design it got cut on the plasma and welded up. Still have a clamping mechanism to make, I have an idea or two but he will have a word with his son to see what he thinks would be best.
Ok the quick model drawn in fusion, it consists of two bits of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle, a flat plate to give the width and a couple of sides where twin wheels will be mounted on an axle.
A few minutes on the plasma and a bit longer welding and this is it so far.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
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- Going Away.
Another Cabinet Makers Screwdriver, a simple clean up and return to service?
Should of been, but this one had a surprize waiting.
The Handle was not wood, but a soft plastic, full od dents and dings. The ferule was some sort of wax/plastic compound.
With a big bit missing.
So, no way of remoulding the plastic and "bodge" way was needed.
So, 2 pack glue, fine sawdust and some talcum powder filled the dents and dings on the main handle. I did slap it on a bit.
Cut back with wet and dry, the ferule was repaired the same way.
But stained with Van Dyke Brown. It was not a good mix.
The handle was dipped into a plastic paint finish.
That's £5 of good money I will not see again.
To be honest, yes they were "New to me" repair methods. But I am not happy with the finish.
The filler filled the holes. But the paint finish caused a lot of shrinkage. It will be redone at a latter date.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
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- Going Away.
Another Dental Gas fired Dental Oven.
This one has some interesting history.
This is how I got it. Cob webs and their makers were also included.
I knew it needed a lot off attention, plus heat.
In bits.
It needed a lot heat. The 2 threaded pins in the lid arm were truly stuck in place. The fact some one had taken a pair of pipe wrenches to them and left a lot of burrs.
The lid has a lead seal, this was hammered flat and refilled as needed. The idea is that the lead deforms and seals on the main part.
This is not a UK or an American idea, but more European designed item.
But all the fixings are English imperial. As are the markings on some of the parts. But the paint remains are again a odd mix.
One of the 2 UNF threaded stays was broken. But butchered with some form of pipe wrench..
Heat did not help, the brass body conducted it away.
Drilled out, taped to 7/16UNF. The body was cleaned up with warm water, vinegar and wire wool.
The burner fitted. But it is not one I can find much details on it.
The pipe threads, did come up good, but needed some TLC with some Swiss files.
Assembled.
The paint is based on the remains of the paint colours I found.
This again has thrown up a lot of confusion.
Just 2 new stays needed and a decent wooden base
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
You might find a pair of the cheap Chinese ...... eBay 150 or 175 mm dia non puncturable softish yellow rubber wheels are useful as they can go over a four inch kerb & gravel without too much effort when loaded up
You might also need to put a decent set of sealed for life bearings in them and studlock the nuts on the split rims bolts . I had to do that on mine as they often came undone & the supplied bearings were very playful & graunchy after a few months of use.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
He has wheelie bin wheels, I suggested he would be better with pneumatic or puncture proof wheels but he wants to stick with them, probably because they are free
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
- Messages
- 1,369
It’s reclaimed Ali. The scrap is melted down into ingots to get rid of any impurities before it’s used to cast anything. Don’t know if it helps or not but it works for me, YMMV
slim_boy_fat
Member
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- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
- Messages
- 1,369
I’m faaaaar form an expert, just a novice following the path of St.Myfordboy
The bentomix is not one-shot, I don’t know exactly how long it lasts, I’m not using it every day or anything but I’m still using the stuff I bought more than 2 years ago.
I’ve also used sodium silicate and fine* sand cured with co2. It’s single use. It is cool though and useful for more complex shapes and cores.
*playpit sand
The bentomix is not one-shot, I don’t know exactly how long it lasts, I’m not using it every day or anything but I’m still using the stuff I bought more than 2 years ago.
I’ve also used sodium silicate and fine* sand cured with co2. It’s single use. It is cool though and useful for more complex shapes and cores.
*playpit sand
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I like the sound of your casting medium .
I too have been seeing what MFB was doing . Had a casting made with sieved moulding sand & finely liquidized ( cat litter style ) montmorillic clay aka bentonite ready for pouring . Made the mould up five days ago , this afternoon moved it to the mounting board off the work top where I'd tamped & locked everything together , lifted it up and the whole casting form fell out the drag . Who left it in a place where it got blazing sun for five days 
Lesson learnt ............ it dries out quick, the moisture being absorbed by the wooden frames and gets very weak , even the two small battens glued & screwed to the each of the inner walls as keys couldn't hold it in place, it got that dry .
I hope to have a new mould making session tomorrow .
.
I too have been seeing what MFB was doing . Had a casting made with sieved moulding sand & finely liquidized ( cat litter style ) montmorillic clay aka bentonite ready for pouring . Made the mould up five days ago , this afternoon moved it to the mounting board off the work top where I'd tamped & locked everything together , lifted it up and the whole casting form fell out the drag
. Who left it in a place where it got blazing sun for five days Lesson learnt ............ it dries out quick, the moisture being absorbed by the wooden frames and gets very weak , even the two small battens glued & screwed to the each of the inner walls as keys couldn't hold it in place, it got that dry .
I hope to have a new mould making session tomorrow .
.
