What are you machining?

[grim_d]

@Brad93

Just round bar I had, screws are EN1A and nuts are EN8M.

You can do a hex in the lathe but it is a bit of a rigmarole. I'd be happy to put a hex on something for you if needed but I'm quite sure there will be someone local to you willing to help.

Or just drill a hole to put a bar through?

My lathe is a weird hybrid, everything is metric apart from the leadscrew, all the fasteners are still imperial though (just like my mill)

What's the 9/16 hole for? The base of my lathe has threaded holes for the levelling screws.

 

[Brad93]

@Brad93

Just round bar I had, screws are EN1A and nuts are EN8M.

You can do a hex in the lathe but it is a bit of a rigmarole. I'd be happy to put a hex on something for you if needed but I'm quite sure there will be someone local to you willing to help.

Or just drill a hole to put a bar through?

My lathe is a weird hybrid, everything is metric apart from the leadscrew, all the fasteners are still imperial though (just like my mill)

What's the 9/16 hole for? The base of my lathe has threaded holes for the levelling screws.

On my lathe the levelling screws have 9/16 holes to bolt it down once levelled.

So how do you thread imperial? Still have to use 63t or 127t change wheel?

 

[grim_d]

@Brad93, to bolt it to the ground?

The manual for the L5A wants it to be levelled then the base to be mortared to the floor... It's not critical enough for me to go that far.

The screwcutting leadscrew is imperial so it cuts imperial straight "out of the box". I use a 127t and a 40t to cut metric with a 63t in there for the .75 pitches.

There's pictures of me making them a couple pages back.

 

[Brad93]

@Brad93, to bolt it to the ground?

The manual for the L5A wants it to be levelled then the base to be mortared to the floor... It's not critical enough for me to go that far.

The screwcutting leadscrew is imperial so it cuts imperial straight "out of the box". I use a 127t and a 40t to cut metric with a 63t in there for the .75 pitches.

There's pictures of me making them a couple pages back.

wow did it come with a 127? That’s handy.

Grout rather than mortar most probably.

 

[grim_d]

@Brad93

No, I made the 3 gears necessary, read the whole post.

Yes, grout not mortar.

 

[zx9]

Up date on my hammer.

View attachment 230083

Today was maths to work out the offset of the tailstock and I hit the length of taper to within 1/2 a mm and actually turning between centres with a lathe dog. The finish of taper is straight from the tool, I could have run some emery tape over it but what is the point in that, this is supposed to be a learning project that I can will look back on and judge my progress.

Finished me hammer.

A few errors were made along the way, and it was a pain working around the limited size of the Drummond's spindle and no taper attachment and...
And I have not hardened the steel tip because other than quenching in oil I have no way of doing it, that and the fact the tip is just a bit of steel I had and probably would not harden anyway.
I enjoyed making it, I had to think to resolve some problems and I have something useful to show for it.

 

[Morris]

Torqueflite clutch piston all machined, just waiting for my parting tips to turn up (forgotten I had broke the last one ages ago).

 

[Wedg1e]

I suppose that it's possible that the feed screw has been shortened sometime in the last 57 years, and I certainly don't have any recollections from my school days when I was using Boxfords.
It's always been like it, so I assumed that that's how it should be.

My VSL ejects some things, like the tailstock chuck, but not others, like a live centre. All down to the length I guess.

 

[Matchless]

Not sure this is the right place to post this but...

Is there anyone who can give me a price to machine some brake drums from solid bar, I ideally would want them finished all over except for the actual brake surface, leave a bit for final truing, I would finish that once they are mounted, basically they were originally 1/8" thick pressings, 6 1/2" internal dia, 1 1/2" deep external, no hole or say a 1" centre hole, I have done 8" drums before but it is just too much for my Student with a 240v motor, need someone with a big lathe, they were used on many different Matchless motorcycles from the 20's but with differing ways of attaching them, the one pictures is held on with a circlip as the wheels were interchangeable, and they carried a spare (Matchless H) some are bolted, some riveted, some idiot thought body filler would be ok to repair a brake drum! I would probably need six, depends a bit on price, when I did the 8" drums I got discs sawn off of suitable round bar, would need to be around 6 7/8" od stock, whatever that is in metric..... local ish would be better due to weight / postage issues, but whatever, just an idea of cost for a start,

 

[Agroshield]

As Johnnybravo says, material is important. Cast iron has to be from solid bar.

If they are steel, (possible as you say they were pressed originally) could you fabricate from a plate welded to a pipe stub and then just finish to size and shape? Maybe a thick plate so your internal and external radius blends are in non-welded material and have the weld seam 1/2" up the cylinder.

In 1/8", if you made a former, you could heat a circle and turn the corner over for 1/4" and again weld to a cylinder (look at how boiler backplates are made in the model steam community - OK, so they are copper, but same principle).

 

[Matchless]

I will post some pictures of an 8" front I fabricated, looked correct, worked ok but weighed a ton! a big flywheel in the front! still using it but! for someone with the right equipment and a big swarf bucket I don't think it would be a problem from steel blanks, and yes steel, I once used a slice from an oxygen cylinder to reband a brake drum, maybe I will reband this one to save the splined centre but would still need a few,

 

[Matchless]

they are not square but I could finish off by hand, only one or two would need splines and if I had to do them myself it would not be a big problem, I got a friend in Latvia to make this hub with drum a couple of years ago, would have taken me a week or three on my Student..... he says he used 40H steel?

 

[Morris]

Finished.

 

[Brad93]

Is that your lathe or your friends lathe in Latvia? Very clean.

 

[Matchless]

Is that your lathe or your friends lathe in Latvia? Very clean.

My lathe....ha,ha,ha,ha,ha mine is usually 6" under swarf, only gets cleaned when I have parted off something and cannot find it! that lathe is in Ogre Latvia, Ramoto limited, Juris just today took delivery of a brand new vixen aquablast, built in the UK,

 

[Kram]

What good is having a lathe if you cant do valve shims?

Biggest challenge is holding it. Made up a little 7.5mm bore, 2mm deep, 5mm through split collet. Took a tiny cut 0.02mm can still see the etching.

 

[pressbrake1]

Subjected the ormerod slotter to cutting a 1” keyway in some semi hard material

 

[Hood]

Subjected the ormerod slotter to cutting a 1” keyway in some semi hard material View attachment 237312View attachment 237313

You cheated

 

[Woody.v8]

A cheeky clutch alignment tool for the daf

 

[pressbrake1]

Coring rig shaft in en19
Original are in 308 stainless and gall up