daedalusminos
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Bend it, rotate (say) 90 degrees, bend again...this will put more of a twist than a bendSorry, don't see it - bent in two places yes, one place two directions no.
Bend it, rotate (say) 90 degrees, bend again...this will put more of a twist than a bendSorry, don't see it - bent in two places yes, one place two directions no.
Still only bent in one direction?
There we are, like I said, bent in two places. This I understand
Straightening will be a pig of a job with the taper as you can only measure in any given spot at 360deg you cant work along the length looking for a high or low as you would normally do with a parallel part.
Build it up with welding and recut
I did one of brads bent meddings shafts for him wasn’t a particularly difficult job
Build it up with welding and recut
I did one of brads bent meddings shafts for him wasn’t a particularly difficult job
Unless I am mistaken from the picture I think most of the damage will only be in the last 20 odd mm's and that's the jacobs tapper. The rest should be ok due to its larger diameter and that the majority was inside the machine held tight by the bearings.The morse taper spindle looks tricky but I reckon you might get a good amount of bend out of it fairly easily. Getting it good enough for use as a spindle again... well that's probably a job for flame straightening and you'd still have to massage the taper if it has suffered any damage.
Unless I am mistaken from the picture I think most of the damage will only be in the last 20 odd mm's and that's the jacobs tapper. The rest should be ok due to its larger diameter and that the majority was inside the machine held tight by the bearings.
You can mate. If the angle set is spot on and the part clocked true there is no reason an accurate lathe won’t cut a quality taper. I don’t think I’d have any trouble cutting that taper to perfection simply using my top slide.You can’t cut a precise enough taper on most hobbiest lathes to mate together.
You’ll have to recut the taper as near as you can, then use blue and emery tape, till it’s spot on.
If you’ve got a junk chuck with the right taper you could use lapping compound.
I very much doubt the taper would mate with the female taper on the chuck and hold to the full required torque.You can mate. If the angle set is spot on and the part clocked true there is no reason an accurate lathe won’t cut a quality taper. I don’t think I’d have any trouble cutting that taper to perfection simply using my top slide.
I very much doubt the taper would mate with the female taper on the chuck and hold to the full required torque.
@doubleboost has blued most of his taper projects in, perhaps he could explain further.
Leverage was required. Bolt welded to a steel plate welded to a steel tube which was the right diameter to accept a 1" steel bar for even more leverage. The bolt fit into the chuck. After a half dozen attempts I managed through sheer chance to get the thing running straight. No hint of a wobble as far as I can see. Once it's back in the drill and running I'll consider it fixed, but the gods of ignorance and dumb luck were on my side tonight.
Well done simplest is easiest.If it bent, it can be unbent - there isn't the meat on that to machine a new taper in my opinion, but of course its only my opinion...
Lateral thinking - I thought it was obvious?
Well done simplest is easiest.