- Thread starter Dieselman 63
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Dieselman 63
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If you can, I would recommend a jet wash, it just blew all the crap out of mine and all the grease out of the lubrication holes! Most pleasing was sanding the ways to discover the serial number. I’d be interested to see pics of both your saws.
If taking the machine apart, the pivot pins for the arm MUST be removed by knocking them outwards. I tapped one through and believe me I was in a whole world of problems, I was very lucky to get it back in. (I actually did it twice because I’m an idiot!)
Maybe I’ll email pics of my rebuild so they can see I’m not a chancer or something trying to just sell a machine.
If taking the machine apart, the pivot pins for the arm MUST be removed by knocking them outwards. I tapped one through and believe me I was in a whole world of problems, I was very lucky to get it back in. (I actually did it twice because I’m an idiot!)
Maybe I’ll email pics of my rebuild so they can see I’m not a chancer or something trying to just sell a machine.
God mode restorations
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Hi diesel kid. Sorry for the very late reply. Nice work on the saw. Although different from the Manchester but a great machine to haveFirst coat on, happy
Big improvement from a few days back.
@spencer 427 I’m missing your input here, hoped to see you since you have three of these machines (though rapidors I think).
Dieselman 63
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- 5,853
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- Wellington, New Zealand
Just received the ‘like bomb’ from you haha lit up my alerts
Is it a major and two little ones you have? Be interested to see if there’s a restoration thread
God mode restorations
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Yes I have to small Manchester's and the big rapidor. I will be doing a rebuild on the rapidor. I started a thread ages ago on the smaller one .I will be adding to this in the next few weeks.Just received the ‘like bomb’ from you haha lit up my alerts
Is it a major and two little ones you have? Be interested to see if there’s a restoration thread
Dieselman 63
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- 5,853
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- Wellington, New Zealand
I’ve gone and bought new castors, the old ones were crushed under the weight of the machine despite being solid rubber. These ones can’t be bolted through the centre like the old ones, which presents a small issue. I will have to buy new steel bar which I don’t want to do since it’s an expense! So I’ve decided to reuse the old stuff.
These are the mounting bolts which came with the machine, and I reckoned if I ground down the flats I could fit them into the cup of the castors, then bolt the castor on. Some drilling and cutting and grinding later, and I have a good idea of what it will look like. Typically I don’t have bolts to fasten it... but you get the idea.
I’m quite taken with the castors, they match the machine colours very well
it’s got such a low centre of gravity that it’s a right pig to move alone, and since I won’t be using it too much I reckon having it on wheels should be great to wheel it out the way when I need the space.
These are the mounting bolts which came with the machine, and I reckoned if I ground down the flats I could fit them into the cup of the castors, then bolt the castor on. Some drilling and cutting and grinding later, and I have a good idea of what it will look like. Typically I don’t have bolts to fasten it... but you get the idea.
I’m quite taken with the castors, they match the machine colours very well
it’s got such a low centre of gravity that it’s a right pig to move alone, and since I won’t be using it too much I reckon having it on wheels should be great to wheel it out the way when I need the space.
Dieselman 63
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That’s the first side done, proves it works which is great! Now to do the rear, same process, bar ends cut and eight holes drilled and countersunk, two bolts ground down. Looking forward to being able to move it about
Dieselman 63
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- 5,853
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I decided to clean out the inside of the tub and get some primer on it. This is a big hurdle to jump as everything else fits onto it. The cast ribs made it difficult and I had to do it in a few sittings. The other side should be a bit easier!
I’ll need to buy some new bolts to attach the motor step pulley to the frame, because another pulley attaches to this assembly - the one which also drives the saw arm and the pump for the relief cylinder.
The hunt is still on for a motor, but nothing suitable has come up yet. Typical as last year I was almost batting away the offers for spare motors. Just my luck!
I’ll need to buy some new bolts to attach the motor step pulley to the frame, because another pulley attaches to this assembly - the one which also drives the saw arm and the pump for the relief cylinder.
The hunt is still on for a motor, but nothing suitable has come up yet. Typical as last year I was almost batting away the offers for spare motors. Just my luck!
Dieselman 63
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- 5,853
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- Wellington, New Zealand
This is how I will position the switchgear on the saw. I have found a new front for the enclosure which is coming from England.
The red box was due to be a kick stop for my Graduate, but I’ve since found an actual kick stop from the same company selling the switch front. I’ll paint both the switch and the cutoff black once everything is installed.
The red box was due to be a kick stop for my Graduate, but I’ve since found an actual kick stop from the same company selling the switch front. I’ll paint both the switch and the cutoff black once everything is installed.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
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- 5,853
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- Wellington, New Zealand
The grease is unbelievable on this thing. There’s everything ranging from new grease to black paste to ancient plastic that has dried out. I probably shouldn’t but I’ve put the worst parts in petrol to cut through it quickly. It works very well!
The main arm was a big culprit for old grease. I used tweezers to fish out skins of grease from the ball bearing, the nipple had fresh stuff in but was pushing dried grease into the bearing
The ways are meant to be oiled not greased, and you can see the classic scoring damage that has happened. With most of the small parts done, all that remains is the big drive pulley to be cleaned.
The main arm was a big culprit for old grease. I used tweezers to fish out skins of grease from the ball bearing, the nipple had fresh stuff in but was pushing dried grease into the bearing
The ways are meant to be oiled not greased, and you can see the classic scoring damage that has happened. With most of the small parts done, all that remains is the big drive pulley to be cleaned.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I installed acorn nuts underneath the saw on the cast bracket which holds the secondary pulley on. Very nice I think, though I’m sure @brightspark will hate it being dressed up like this!
The switch box is also now attached. I bought a carbide tipped masonry bit which happily ripped through the cast iron. I needed these holes drilled so I can begin removing the paint and cleaning this casting.
The switch box is also now attached. I bought a carbide tipped masonry bit which happily ripped through the cast iron. I needed these holes drilled so I can begin removing the paint and cleaning this casting.
brightspark
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not at all. it is nice to have some things looking real good as well as mechanically sound .its just I haven't the time and just do things I like . I don't like dirty crappy gear though
slim_boy_fat
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Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I don’t really use rust converter/killer solution much but for this job I thought it would be a good tactic. The coolant bath is a pain to wire brush so I just filled it with the liquid and we shall see the results later. The bottle said a light application but I’ve given it a few mm.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
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- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Well that was a nasty job. I remember now why I dislike using chemicals, lots of mess and black crap all over but it did the job and seemingly did it well, too.
A coat of primer and it’s looking more and more complete.
A coat of primer and it’s looking more and more complete.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Got some paint on the cutoff today. First a coat of etch primer because it’s whitemetal cast, then gloss black. All the screws were filed neat again, then brushed and polished. It makes a big difference to the look of the machine.
The state of the wiring inside leaves a bit to be desired. Fortunately I never powered this machine up and went straight into the teardown!
The state of the wiring inside leaves a bit to be desired. Fortunately I never powered this machine up and went straight into the teardown!
slim_boy_fat
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Some (in my experience, generally ex-forces - no personal inference to anyone here) will tell you that the screw slots should all be parallel
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Some (in my experience, generally ex-forces - no personal inference to anyone here) will tell you that the screw slots should all be parallel
Ideally yes. Can I be bothered? No
Here is how the switchgear will look once it’s done properly. I think it looks very nice.
The cylinder is stripped and due to be painted into primer. I need to consult the drawings here and buy some new springs. This is the part of the rebuild I’ve been dreading.
slim_boy_fat
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Ideally yes. Can I be bothered? No
No, me neither. But I believe it's for a reason - see at a glance if any are slackening.Keep up the good work, I enjoy the updates.
