Qualters & Smith 6” Power Hacksaw

  1. vwmark

    vwmark Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    North Wales
    Just standard iso32 hydraulic oil.

    I had to remakes the rod that pushes on the bevelled washer which controls the decent of the bow. Setting this up took a bit of time.
     
    RonA likes this.
  2. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    A bit of work done today. The front leg got sanded and filled - not too much to detract from the roughness of the rest but it really has been knocked at the front so I had to fix that.

    The motor pulley was just really dirty, it’s actually really clean underneath. The V ways need a bit of a clean to get the rust out, and I’ll repaint it to match the rest. The saw is linked to the pulley on a non-adjustable V belt. The second V way is for the pump I have realised. Only the motor belt can be changed from high to low speed - 100/150 strokes per minute.

    Looking pretty good now! I really want to find a motor, for the moment I’ve just put the mounting bracket there for spacing. Tomorrow some work on the rear leg I think.
     
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  3. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Need some help. The machine had been repaired in a few places, this doesn’t bother me since the repairs are very old and it’s nice to think someone thought it worth repairing rather than scrapping this lovely machine.

    I’m puzzled as to what this braze is for though. @Rig Pig @RonA could you provide pic evidence of what yours looks like here?
     
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  4. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Today I have been cleaning the vice ways, they were very rusty with lots of congealed oil - nice.

    A wire brush and a good sand got the rust off, then a going over with scotchbrite and some autosol makes it come back to bright steel again. Tough work but worth it - I found the serial too, 3135. It would be interesting to know how many were made of this type.
     
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  5. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,578
    Location:
    NE London - UK
    Apparently this company bought Q&S. They may be able to date it for you, if they're still around.

    Birkett Cutmaster Ltd
    PO Box 30
    Cleckheaton
    West Yorkshire
    BD19 3BL
    Tel. 01274 870311
    Fax. 01274 862754

    Edit: Apparently now owned by - https://www.accurate-cutting.co.uk/contact-us/
     
    Dieselkid 63 likes this.
  6. Rig Pig

    Rig Pig Member

    Messages:
    3,501
    Location:
    Narrwich! U.K.
    The casting on mine is very different in this area. Yours looks like a blowhole in the casting that has been filled with braze, maybe a repair during manufactur?
     
  7. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,578
    Location:
    NE London - UK
    The edge looks rough, as though there was a lip there which has been broken off.
     
  8. RonA

    RonA specialist in repairing sealed for life equipment

    Messages:
    1,363
    Location:
    Stockton on Tees, UK
    Hi Dieselkid,
    Bit awkward getting a picture of mine at present but gave the area a good coat of looking at & no sign of braze. Think Rig pigs suggestion could be feasible.
    RonA
     
  9. RonA

    RonA specialist in repairing sealed for life equipment

    Messages:
    1,363
    Location:
    Stockton on Tees, UK
    After reading Seadogs note, gave the area another look. There is a small raised edge at that position a bit like a weir, possibly where the coolant spilled over? As I mentioned in my conversation my saw never had a coolant system so the purpose of the “lip” isnt obvious.
    RonA
     
  10. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,578
    Location:
    NE London - UK
    If that were the case then I assume coolant would drain into the squarish opening to the right. Does that make any sense?

    [​IMG]
     
  11. RonA

    RonA specialist in repairing sealed for life equipment

    Messages:
    1,363
    Location:
    Stockton on Tees, UK
    Having perused the diagram in the manual, the coolant outflow appears to be below the clamp screw chamber
    but some of the coolant will end up on the table adjacent to the clamp. I suspect the slightly raised “weir” missing in Deiselkids saw is there to seperate coolant from saw filings before entering the clamp screw chamber & hence back via a filter basket to the coolant reservoir.
    RonA
     
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  12. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    That’s right, the coolant flows back down into the murky depths, but that weir acts as a trap for all the swarf. I just wondered whether there was lip like on a jug, with a pouring spout or something which has since been filled.

    Here’s another repaired piece. The first paint on it is grey which suggests it might have been a factory repair, the nut is steel not iron and is a separate insert, acme thread.

    Construction is proper rough all over. I found this today too hiding inside a hole - a tap! The rest is still inside, it’s not the first one I’ve seen either.
     
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  13. RonA

    RonA specialist in repairing sealed for life equipment

    Messages:
    1,363
    Location:
    Stockton on Tees, UK
    “ I justwondered whether there was lip like on a jug, with a pouring spout or something which has since been filled. ”
    Looking at my saw the lip or “weir” is solid, no sign of any pouring point.
    RonA
     
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  14. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Today has been the first decent day in ages with no rain to speak of. Time for jet washing! I wasn’t going to bother repainting between the vice ways but the jet washer got it right out and clean, there’s just a tiny bit of degreasing needed in there now.

    The hardest setting lifts paint which karcher put as a warning but frankly I see it as a selling point. It’s excellent for chewing through years of old paint and grime, flushed out grease no problem, an all round excellent machine. The blue paint is quite strongly bonded, I will see how it comes off with sandpaper. The original stuff is rock solid, really high quality is old school paint!
     
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  15. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    God only knows how you paint in here. I used this awful thing, proper pasting job but it got the job done which is what matters :)

    Two coats to go with red gloss, then I’ll sand the rails. I could do this when it’s attached to the base, but it’s easier right now as I can actually get in and lift the casting up on its back. I painted the front outer leg, it’s almost identical to the spray primer except it’s gloss! Went on beautifully, ppg industrial stuff, cost a pretty penny but I’m happy.
     
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  16. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Using my favourite tool for the paint chipping, the Bahco demolition knife. I’ve never used it as a chisel or a knife, but it’s great at smashing old paint off machines and comfy in the hand too.

    I will get the paint off this casting and do the skim of filler and prime whilst it’s on the ground, then attach to the rest of the machine for topcoat. The base needs a second coat of red and the rear leg needs the outer sorting. Half of these restoration jobs is working out a sensible order...
     
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  17. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Looking pretty tasty now!

    Getting paint between those ways is a nightmare. This time I used a bent plastic paintbrush, easier but still proper hard.
     
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  18. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Banned from forklifts

    Messages:
    4,191
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    They have no records apparently. They sent me one of those ‘please leave us alone’ type emails. Oh well.

    Back to the build, I’m wondering whether the vice orientation goes up or down with the oil hole. It was under the screw when I dismantled, but that doesn’t really make sense to me. Does anyone know which way it goes?

    I put the tub on top of the legs. I’m going away for a few days soon so I decided I ought to tidy up the garage a little. It’s pokey in there but at least I could see what I was doing by lying on my back this time - before it was full of black filth. Construction isn’t the most precise, keep all the bolts slackened until they’re all in, and then tighten up afterwards.
     
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  19. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,578
    Location:
    NE London - UK

    :laughing:

    I'd have the oil hole at the top.
     
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  20. Rig Pig

    Rig Pig Member

    Messages:
    3,501
    Location:
    Narrwich! U.K.
    That's odd, I rang them and they put me through to a gent who had all the old paperwork, he took my address and posted a copy of the drawing free.
    Perhaps you need to ring them?

    If you don't have any joy I can pop photos of the book up here, obviously it's a different model but I doubt the mechanism has changed much.

    Your saw is coming on well, you have shamed me into action, I'm going to move everything out and get it inside this afternoon / tomorrow morning. I think mine is more likely to get a quick wipe over with an oily rag than a strip and rebuild!
     
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