Qualters & Smith 6” Power Hacksaw

[Dieselman 63]

Getting the motor off was tricky as the bolts were rusted tight. Well, I could have left them overnight in penetrating oil and had a go today but... nah. Two grooves and a cold chisel to break the edges off the circles, and they slipped through along with the lump of motor which has either a bent shaft or a bent pulley, turns freely but definitely not true.

Jet blasting today, see what’s under the filth on this base... steel washers are buried all over this thing it’s mad, I find them everywhere just covered in filings

 

[roofman]

$400, for a machine with a busted ram and motor. They must be worth a lot more in NZ than the UK. I paid about £40 for my cheapo hacksaw at a local machinery auction a couple of years ago, can’t remember the make, made in Ireland. Plugged it in and it was ready to rock and roll, quite literally, as the floor isn’t all that level. The on/off switch is a domestic 240v rocker lighting switch. Looks like it is original equipment too. I fitted an emergency stop as well, because getting your finger onto the rocker switch as the stop control, (an ordinary M6 bolt) descended on it, is quite difficult if anything goes wrong. This spring there was a well maintained and complex looking Starrett hacksaw at the machinery auction, it didn’t make much either, about £30 I think.

The saw was only $10...the rest was to ship it to NZ. This British Island is rammed with old English machinery but when we are talking NZ and other far off places i am sure demand reflects the prices.

 

[Rig Pig]

Wow you're keen! My saw is still sitting on my trailer under a tarp!

 

[Dieselman 63]

The saw was only $10...the rest was to ship it to NZ. This British Island is rammed with old English machinery but when we are talking NZ and other far off places i am sure demand reflects the prices.

Absolutely. A clapped out bandsaw went for $1300 the other week, I was bidding up to $800 but I couldn’t justify it.

 

[roofman]

Absolutely. A clapped out bandsaw went for $1300 the other week, I was bidding up to $800 but I couldn’t justify it.

Had a friend move to Dunedin many years ago and he hounded me for months after to buy and send him old machinery down to him as he just could not find any worth having or the money..

 

[Dieselman 63]

Had a friend move to Dunedin many years ago and he hounded me for months after to buy and send him old machinery down to him as he just could not find any worth having or the money..

Interesting, yeah you can’t really understand it until you have lived it/know someone who has

Tech universities are clearing out their gear atm, I’ve seen at least two in the past year, the auctions all started at $1 and propelled up into the ridiculous figures. Saw two Colchester Bantams, one with DRO go for $6000 and one without reach $3500. By comparison I shelled out $500 for mine which seems like a miracle! Not so much 70s stuff to buy, lots of knackered 50s and 60s stuff though. Ward turret lathes seem to appear fairly regularly. It’s very hit and miss and there are lots of dry patches.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Back to some actual work on the saw, it’s now completely in bits for repainting and rebuilding.

First up is the base and the two end pieces - the whole machine breaks apart fairly easily. The internals were originally painted like a burgundy red, I don’t have a colour like that but I do have some scarlet red paint so that’s what I’ll do. Exterior I think is dove grey. I’ll need to make up some new side plates with sheet metal.

Most of the muck here is coolant and sawdust I think, had the same stuff on the lathe.

 

[Dieselman 63]

All in bits but tidier than yesterday. I primed and put a coat of red onto the front support - it’s very rough! The base got a wire brush on the underside which I feel is enough. The upper is being wire brushed and primed gradually. It’ll look good all in red I’m sure.

 

[Dieselman 63]

So I found out why the feed knob was dead - turns out someone has slackened the nut waaaay looser than the correct 5/64” than the manual shows - thanks to @scottmk1 for providing me with that. The black knob controls the cutting blade I think but hells bells, it’s broken too! The spring has been crushed somehow. I will find something to replace it with. Someone has mucked around with an adjustable spanner on the setting bolts so I’ll need to experiment on feeds but so far so good. I’ll need to get that cylinder into new paint and maybe make some new knobs for the control levers. Then I can try and put it all back together with some new gaskets.

 

[RonA]

Same arrgt as mine Dieselkid, the feed knob on mine was missing on purchase, had to make one up. Your photo clearly shows the bevelled washer on the bottom of the piston which covers the leakage hole in the piston which cause it to fall/rise.
RonA

 

[Dieselman 63]

What’s the purpose of this cast plug (not shown) which screws into the body above the relief valve?

 

[RonA]

What’s the purpose of this cast plug (not shown) which screws into the body above the relief valve?

I can only guess its to drain off the oil, is it not mentioned in the manual you received?
RonA
PS wouldn’t mind a copy of the manual myself, settings on mine only acheived by trial & error.

 

[Dieselman 63]

I’m cleaning the bolts - these hold the two legs to the base. Weirdly it looks like Q&S may have made their own bolts - everything on this machine is UNC which is strange considering it’s British and not a clone (like an A&S Bridgeport or something). Either that or they’re just very rough finished.

 

[daedalusminos]

Looks like you're doing a fine job - can't wait to see the results. UNF/UNC widely used in the UK car industry during the '50's and '60's.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Looks like you're doing a fine job - can't wait to see the results. UNF/UNC widely used in the UK car industry during the '50's and '60's.

Interesting. Bolts look like they've just come off the lathe, still sharp to the touch! I sanded them flat on my disc sander.

The finish line is a while away yet. Finishing the internal space of the base would be a great start, along with the pulleys and brackets. Then I can get the tub back on top. Lots to do

 

[Dieselman 63]

Some pics of the current setup, the front leg is painted inside and the bolts are clean. The rear has been cleaned but not repainted; it will need wire brushing in the corners. The bracket for the speed change pulleys has also been cleaned, not much work to do here thankfully, it’s an awkward shape.

I turned the tub upside down, and it doesn’t look too bad. Nothing a degrease and a wire brush won’t solve

 

[vwmark]

What’s the purpose of this cast plug (not shown) which screws into the body above the relief valve?

Its oil level. Fill until oil comes out but its a pain to use.

I just filled to 3/4 full before fitting.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Its oil level. Fill until oil comes out but its a pain to use.

I just filled to 3/4 full before fitting.

What oil did you use? They recommend a 150 iso hydraulic oil, but I can’t find any that isn’t in 20l containers

 

[Dieselman 63]

I’ve done some prep and prime work today. Lovely weather for it, still and sunny. Think I might get the rest of the base done today and maybe the other leg inside if I’m lucky.

 

[Dieselman 63]

First coat on, happy

Big improvement from a few days back.

@spencer 427 I’m missing your input here, hoped to see you since you have three of these machines (though rapidors I think).