Diesel cab heater

[wookie]

In theory would it be possible to run a 12v heater off 24v by using a, say, 5amp 24v to 12v inverter plus a small 12v battery to provide the extra amps during the initial start up ?

Yes, normally they are called "droppers" or "convertors" rather than inverter, most droppers have 2 ratings, one is the continuous load and the other is the short term overload that they can supply. Quite often the overload value is 150% of the continuous rating.

You can get 24volt diesel heaters, why not fit one of those and make things less complicated.

Just use a voltage dropper many narrowboats use them
20-amp-24v-12v-voltage-dropper.html

What's the efficiency of that dropper ? if they don't list it then I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole.

 

[fizzy]

Are you saying the 2kw is a physically smaller unit ? I had a full enclosure for my mobility scooter which such a heater was an option and wondered how it would fit.

Yes that is correct - will dig the book out tomorrow it has dims for both.

 

[fizzy]

Nice cheap ducting. £30 for 10 metres. Far better and cheaper than the proper stuff.
3" hard to find. Popular for hydroponics - wonder why they use it????

 

[fizzy]

As promised the sizes.

 

[bigegg]

Nice cheap ducting. £30 for 10 metres. Far better and cheaper than the proper stuff.
3" hard to find. Popular for hydroponics - wonder why they use it????View attachment 162463 View attachment 162464 View attachment 162465

because it fits in the cavity between inner and outer house walls.

for when you need a "stealth" vent for your diesel heater...


DAMHIKT

 

[Carl Wilson]

@doubleboost are you having any issues with condensation? Just watched latest night cap and I can see the heater is making it warm in your shop. What happens when you turn it off and the temperature drops?

I am wondering if you are having any heating/cooling dew point issues, with condensation forming?

I think for a workshop good insulation and electric heat on constantly to maintain a low background temperature, ramping up when you are in there is the key.

 

[doubleboost]

@doubleboost are you having any issues with condensation? Just watched latest night cap and I can see the heater is making it warm in your shop. What happens when you turn it off and the temperature drops?

I am wondering if you are having any heating/cooling dew point issues, with condensation forming?

I think for a workshop good insulation and electric heat on constantly to maintain a low background temperature, ramping up when you are in there is the key.

No condensation at all very pleased with it the roof is well insulated but the door is not

 

[Carl Wilson]

Hello John,

Glad to know you aren't getting any condensation issues. I used to get it a bit, in my old shop. The one I have now is a part of the house - lined and insulated - so although unheated, it doesn't ever go below 12 degrees C. Just a small oil filled heater is enough to bring the temperature up a few degrees to comfortable levels.

When I first bought the house it had a standard up and over door. I got a roller one like yours, but it has insulation inside the segments, polystyrene I think.

I was thinking you could box the heater up outside and feed the warm air in through some ducting and maybe make a baffle to cut the noise down.

 

[indy4x]

Just ordered one via @doubleboost link

 

[wookie]

No condensation at all very pleased with it the roof is well insulated but the door is not

I wouldn't expect any condensation issues with these heaters especially if the heater is inside your workshop, then all it is doing is taking the air from your workshop, heating it up and blowing it back into your workshop. The beauty of these types of heaters is ALL they add is heat, any moisture created by burning the fuel is sent down the exhaust pipe.

If your workshop is already damp then running one of these heaters will mean you have a warmer but still damp workshop, the best thing for a damp workshop is a dehumidifier.

If the heater draws air from outside then potentially it could add moisture to your workshop if it was foggy/damp outside.

 

[mrsbruce]

I wouldn't expect any condensation issues with these heaters especially if the heater is inside your workshop, then all it is doing is taking the air from your workshop, heating it up and blowing it back into your workshop. The beauty of these types of heaters is ALL they add is heat, any moisture created by burning the fuel is sent down the exhaust pipe.

If your workshop is already damp then running one of these heaters will mean you have a warmer but still damp workshop, the best thing for a damp workshop is a dehumidifier.

If the heater draws air from outside then potentially it could add moisture to your workshop if it was foggy/damp outside.

Is it safe to keep both air intakes inside the workshop. The instructions state that the heater should draw the heat block intake from outside.

 

[Carl Wilson]

The thing is, all air contains a percentage of moisture. When heated air hits a cold surface (if surface is below the dew point) the moisture will condense.

 

[daedalusminos]

Is it safe to keep both air intakes inside the workshop. The instructions state that the heater should draw the heat block intake from outside.

I'd say if the heater is working as designed then there's plenty of airflow through the burner, problems may arise under fault conditions e.g. if the exhaust or inlet become blocked or a fan fault occurs etc. Definitely safer to have the inlet drawing from outside.

 

[wookie]

Is it safe to keep both air intakes inside the workshop. The instructions state that the heater should draw the heat block intake from outside.

Yes you should draw air from outside, but I'd happily install one in my garage with it sucking in garage air. I'd definitely have a carbon monoxide alarm, and I'd test it regularly.

Definitely safer to have the inlet drawing from outside.

Which inlet are you referring to ?

There are 2 inlets, the large one on the opposite end to the hot ducting outlet is for the air you intend to heat, while the small diameter one underneath is for combustion air. The later is the one that is supposed to draw from outside. Having said that when installing them on boats as per the instructions both the air inlets usually draw from the same place, which is usually somewhere behind the scenes (as it were) so from a locker or the lazarette.

 

[daedalusminos]

Which inlet are you referring to ?

I was referring to the combustion chamber inlet.

 

[daedalusminos]

Just finished making a mounting plate for my diesel heater from some left over 1.5mm galvanised sheet. The heater will be mounted on the timber garage wall so I wanted something that would give some heat protection, construction is folded and spot welded.

 

[mrsbruce]

I like that, I’ve been looking for a way to fix my heater in the hut. Would you mind if I stole your idea?

 

[WorkshopChris]

I like that, I’ve been looking for a way to fix my heater in the hut. Would you mind if I stole your idea?

Just go for it, the internet was designed for stealing ideas.

 

[wookie]

The heater will be mounted on the timber garage wall so I wanted something that would give some heat protection, construction is folded and spot welded.

Nicely done but rather unnecessary, the only part of the heater that gets hot enough to worry about is the exhaust pipe and that should be lagged. I've fit plenty of these on boats at work and we've never needed anything more than the standard L shaped bracket they come with and we usually fasten them to the wooden structure of the boat.

 

[owas]

I've had 2 ebay sellers cancel, maybe it's just not meant to be