But I could buy 10 of the Chinese ones for the same price - maybe 15!
I don't think it would fit
That particular one is on fleabay, £25 at the moment. 24v though.
I got mine for £60..
Tidy, thats the kinda one I was looking at
That looks interesting...do you have a link?
OiB, I'm sorry I never kept the link and it was a few weeks ago. But you could search on ebay for a Webasto HL 3003, the model I have.
thanks the model number will be a big help.
This one is currently advertised on ebay, in Gravesend, but he doesn't know if it's working. Looks like the same one?
If you could get it for£20-30 and it worked, it would be a real bargain! Might be worth getting in touch with the guy.
There are some working ones in Germany but priced over 300, plus delivery etc, I personally wouldn't bother with them.
as winter is coming ive had to look for one of these for the daughter to use within a property
18 year old and wanted her own place
all thats in the property is old economy 7 heater a cheap oil radiator or a convector heater all comes with costs on electric
id rather buy her one of these so it can be used or it can be used elsewhere instead
so its a power supply from the above and the heater as well they are also cheaper at the moment as well
below 99.00 for the basic non boxed unit or with a box like burdekins heater 120.00
thanks for reminder.
For ( company X) a lot of European companies unless they actually own the factory outright where the goods are being made usually all they will do is send the spec for their machine to a manufacturer & the manufacturer will produce
in massive batches such as 600,000 per batch because it's not worth retooling for runs of much less as the factories run 24/7 for say 16 days as part of their production planning cycles . The company makes 600 K . Company X only want 400K so the others 200 000 are either sold unbranded or with different colour schemes or given another name for what the factory gate price is . Usually the company making items also make so many for their own sales system as part of the contract of supply
When you look at all the battery drills floating around there is often a similarity in body designs . Batteries may look identical but internally they might be wired slightly different or a device is added so you can only use it on that drill and charger .
I sold sea fishing gear . look at sea fishing reels etc you'll see what I mean . When I ran my import business my long term Chinese factory owner friend sent me numerous online catalogues where I could bespoke make up reels , lures lines etc etc. for my business in batches of 5 000 to 500 000 for the best price . Most reels were just over £6.50 each , lead time 36 day ( extra cost ) if air transported but max of 80 days if in a shipping container .. Retail of similar reels in the UK were £ 80 to£ 135. I think there were over 26 basic models and each one had dozens of different alterations/ adaptations available . They would even put my own brand labels on them and design them from any sketches I sent to them
.. a round knob here , a button knob a 3 mm tall x 6 mm know a 6 x 10 mm knob etc etc all for the same control device .
I got the shock of my life recently , in 2007 I'd spent almost £1200 on a genuine Mantis electric cultivator with two sets of tines ,, an aerator set of tines and a lawn de-thatcher . Purchased it direct from Mantis UK as there was nothing on the likes of eBay nor Amazon
A few months ago I got the chance to repair a friends , after he had damaged the cable , he told me he'd purchased his for £ 160 and £ 50 for the same tools off eBay … The plastic housings bore the same casting data & numbers as mine
mine arrived today.
unboxing and fitting tomorrow.
im pinching yours then
gonna rig up to test, but i'm struggling to work out exactly where connect the fuel outlet to the (supplied) plastic tank.
do i just drill a hole through this protruding moulding for the connector?
There's a couple of options,
In the bottom through that protrusion, but make sure you keep away from the seam. Or, you can fit it as a 'clunk' through the lid.
never mind, i googled.
a weighted loose pipe, so called cos it"clunks" when you go round a corner?
I drilled mine and a year later it's still leak free. I also made a small hole in the lid seal as it was air tight and the tank was collapsing as the pump sucked the fuel out.
I drilled through the bottom, no leaks. The key is to ensure that O ring on the inside seals, the one on the outside is pointless....bit like plumbers that wrap PTFE tape round the threads of a compression joint
just bought my diesel heater power supply from the above link
for those that dont want to search for it here it is
ive bought the 12v 20a 240w was thinking id go for the 12v 15 amp but id rather have a little more amps than needed to play with
That's what's 'driving' mine - iirc [and without checking ] I got the 30A one, based on advice here.
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