Bandsaw Mis-aligned pulleys

[Gizmo.Y]

Morning Gents.

Got myself an Axminster Bandsaw, swivel base. the Typical Chinese Re-branded jobby, same as Clarke, Sealey etc.

Ive been battling an issue with it for months now, and im about to kick the thing to to the kurb.

Sometimes it can do 50+ Cuts before the blade comes off. originally i thought it was the top, adjusting pulley as it had some side to side play (Circa 3-4mm). The bottom drive pulley, the blade has never sat on the pulley fully. I always re-tension and re-track the blade.

After getting the vernier out, i found that the drive pulley sat 3mm off the face of the casting. this 3mm is roughly the blade overhang that isnt sat on the pulley.

Has anyone had this issue and rectified it?

A quick look shows its on a Keyway with a circlip to prevent the pulley from walking off. If i removed the pulley and placed a spacer behind it, i wouldnt be able to re-install the circlip.

Granted...I'm using this machine for more than it was designed for. It does circa 20-30 cuts a day through 1.6mm-3mm thick stainless tubing/ pipe. Im using the correct blades (14/18 Varitooth for Thin wall).

the constant downtime is causing me grief!

 

[Wallace]

A few photos would help. Is the drive pulley on the right way round?

 

[Gizmo.Y]

 

[slim_boy_fat]

If it's anything like the small bandsaw I had for wood, the upper pulley can be adjusted for 'tilt' which will get the blade running on the top of the rim.

 

[roofman]

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/setting-up-a-bandsaw.86589/
go to post 15 and life will be good again

 

[Gizmo.Y]

i can get the top pulley adjusted so the blade sits on it perfect, But no matter how i adjust tension or tilt, the result is always the same on the bottom pulley. The blade always tracks off the bottom pulley after 2-3 cuts.

 

[Wallace]

Have you tried resetting the guide roller bearings? The drive end blade edge bearing may be holding the blade off the pulley.

 

[Gizmo.Y]

thats the only thing i have not done...and after watching the video RoofMan suggested. its my first port of call in the morning. I know they are to tight now as i have to force the blade between the bearings.

 

[Gizmo.Y]

Are you just running on the steel wheels, with no tyres?

thats how they came.

 

[julianf]

thats how they came.

sorry, i was confused by the photos, and have deleted my comment anyhow! : )

 

[Wallace]

They can be frustrating machines to set up as some are not particularly well made. I looked on the Axminster website and the owners manual can be downloaded here if you don't have it.

 

[Turbo]

Take off the guide bearings completely & get the saw tracking perfectly first on the 2 wheels, it's the only way to do it. You might have to move the idler wheel in on the shaft to get the blade to run fully on the drive wheel. You can usually move it in or out by adjusting the bushing in the wheel. Use a straight edge to make sure both wheels are co-planar.

Here is a great guide to setting one up.

https://madmodder.net/index.php?PHP...726&action=dlattach;topic=8392.0;attach=11728

 

[Screwdriver]

There is a "hidden" adjustment behind the gearbox mounting. When I restored mine, I was almost tempted to leave it out! It's a dowel pin that looks like it stops the gearbox from mounting "correctly" to the face of the main casting but in fact it's there to give the drive shaft and drive wheel a very slight angle. Might be worth checking. I would also check the manufacturers recommended blade size, the one you have fitted looks too wide for the wheels...

 

[Wallace]

There is a "hidden" adjustment behind the gearbox mounting. When I restored mine, I was almost tempted to leave it out! It's a dowel pin that looks like it stops the gearbox from mounting "correctly" to the face of the main casting but in fact it's there to give the drive shaft and drive wheel a very slight angle. Might be worth checking. I would also check the manufacturers recommended blade size, the one you have fitted looks too wide for the wheels...

Which saw do you have? The gearbox on these saws is part of the main bow and the bearing bores are machined into the casting. The blade looks to be the correct width of 1/2” as the tooth set is just off the edge of the wheel.

 

[Screwdriver]

Which saw do you have? The gearbox on these saws is part of the main bow and the bearing bores are machined into the casting. The blade looks to be the correct width of 1/2” as the tooth set is just off the edge of the wheel.

This one: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/clarke-7-inch-metal-bandsaw.83881/

Is it just me or does the search engine on this website make stuff virtually impossible to find?

PS it might help if you specify exactly which model you have.

 

[knighty]

as above, remove the guide wheels and line up on the wheels first

do you have it tight enough? it won't track right if it's not tight enough

 

[Wallace]

This one: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/clarke-7-inch-metal-bandsaw.83881/

Is it just me or does the search engine on this website make stuff virtually impossible to find?

PS it might help if you specify exactly which model you have.

That makes sense, yours is the 7” which is different to the 6x4 above and my Clarke 6x4 which I have two of.

 

[kcchan]

Very interested in how you get on as I have the same issue. I'd never tried it without the guide wheels off so that would be my next port of call. I, however, haven't touched mine in about a year as house renovations are taking a lot longer than I expected.

 

[Screwdriver]

Blade still looks too wide. Max size for a 6x4 is 1/2". You sure that one's not 5/8" or bigger (as fitted to the 7 inch version)?

 

[Wallace]

Blade still looks too wide. Max size for a 6x4 is 1/2". You sure that one's not 5/8" or bigger (as fitted to the 7 inch version)?

Looks ok on the top wheel, blade is partially off on the drive wheel.