Screwdriver
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Wallace
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What is the width of the blade?
Factory supplied blades are 1/2”/13mm. The tooth set should sit off the wheel as they are solid without a tyre so all the drive is on the blade flat face. I have run a 6tpi raker blade on mine and the set is very close to the wheel.
If you have the side rollers too tight they will squeeze the blade out. When you have them correctly set you should be able to just about turn the bearing with the blade tensioned.
On one of my saws I had to grind a deeper chamfer on the wheels as they were taking the set off the inner side of the blades causing them to cut crooked. It only seemed to affect bimetal blades, carbon steel ones were ok.
Richard.
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If possible I’d go finer than that. In an ideal world we’d have 3 teeth in contact with the job minimum. I know it’s not always ideal but in your case the finer the better. I bet you had a few grabs on that blade which probably deformed it’s shape causing it to run off
I have a really fine tooth pitcher from tuff saw which is perfect for thin walled stuff. 14-18 is probably a bit coarse still.
Richard.
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Yeah it’s 24 I have. I had to ask for it mind as it’s not in the tuff saw quick select options for a 1/2” blade.
anto44
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I had to ask for it as well, they do have 24tpi x 1/2" listed in the standard carbon steel blade though. Since I got 24tpi blade along with fitting a motorbike steering damper downfeed has transformed the saw, with the 14/18 and standard spring controlled downfeed cutting thin wall stainless was a pain.
Richard.
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anto44
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It was your thread where I got the idea, it works brilliantly, saw is so much smoother now. With the spring I had some weights that I'd put on and remove as the blade progressed through the tube, now it's just switch it on and walk away. Only cost me €25 for a new damper from china and a bit of time to make up some brackets.Lol
Copy cat
(Just kidding)
Richard.
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That’s all I did. China special damper. I’d never trust it on the Zx10r but on the monarch saw it’s spot on.
Wallace
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What is the wall thickness and roughly how long do the vari-pitch last on that tubing? Tubing can be a bugger to cut as you need a compromise depending on diameter and wall thickness let alone material type. I looked on the Tuffsaws site to see if they listed a finer vari-pitch as I wouldn't mind trying one, interesting they say suitable for tubing which makes sense but could be misleading for the uninitiated. I have 100ft rolls of Starret 1/2" blade and make my own mostly for mild steel, on tubing the governing factor is the mid point where you are at the thinnest point so setting the feed rate for a good controlled cut there is the best you can do to save the teeth and a compromise on the rest where you may be rubbing rather than cutting on harder materials. On round bar stock there's almost an opposite effect where the tpi and feed rate across the section isn't so critical but the cutting speed is. 3tpi minimum is a great rule of thumb guide from a hacksaw up (what I was taught back in the last century when God was a boy) and works well, although on 1.6mm wall 52mm diameter tubing that equates to around 48tpi or on bar stock 6tpi so a compromise is needed and that is where the problems start for home or light industrial use. If you only have 14tpi and tube to cut then slow feed and speed is your only option. Lots of variables for a cheap home/hobby/light industrial saw, is it any wonder they're regarded as Marmite?
Edit: Those Chinese dampers work better if you get the gold ones and add an Ohlins sticker.
rtbcomp
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Richard.
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If it’s not grabbing then no point worrying about it.
I just assumed you might of had a snatch or two and deformed the blade hence the walking off.
Wallace
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The lack of snatching is likely testimony to the blade quality and a controlled feed rate, the 14tpi pitch is just over the material thickness and the 18tpi just under. Obviously for only a short period but that’s the point that will tear the teeth off.
