help with repair of my euromig 260 mig welder

[Memmeddu]

I think that can be a relay which is always on ,try to check relay and contactor
May be some contacts glued up
Oh sorry I just read about the shorted out transistor

 

[jorva]

I think that can be a relay which is always on ,try to check relay and contactor
May be some contacts glued up
Oh sorry I just read about the shorted out transistor

Yes it must be a transistor or something else on the pcb. There are no relays on the pcb or in the case of the welder. the gas solenoid, contactor and the wire feed motor are connected straight to the pcb no relais or anything in between them I don't have enough knowledge about electronics. So far I have tested some of the components on guidance of the other members here.

I don't know i I shoud continu with trying to repair it myself or leave it to someone who does this daily

 

[eddie49]

In your video when you turn the machine on there is an audible click. Does that sound just come from the on/off switch, or is this the main contactor closing, and/or the gas solenoid ?
You may be able to feel the gas valve moving, or measure 24v across it.
If the main welding power is on, you should get about 20vDC between the Eurotorch socket and the earth clamp on the lowest setting ( 1 ), rising to perhaps 35v at the highest power ( 10 ).
[ Even if this fully-powered-up situation does not actually happen in the fault scenario ( i.e. when the wirefeed is running without reason ), it would still be worth connecting the torch back and pressing the trigger and making these measurements, to confirm that the welder is going to work properly - after we fix it ! ]
From your posting here just before the video, it sounds like this full power-up does not happen - but have you tried in all positions of the 4-way "Mode" selector switch?
( You see, in position one - the continuous line - if this position means "just feed the wire from a new reel", there would not be welding power nor gas, only wire feed motor - which is what we are seeing.)

 

[jorva]

In your video when you turn the machine on there is an audible click. Does that sound just come from the on/off switch, or is this the main contactor closing, and/or the gas solenoid ?
You may be able to feel the gas valve moving, or measure 24v across it.
If the main welding power is on, you should get about 20vDC between the Eurotorch socket and the earth clamp on the lowest setting ( 1 ), rising to perhaps 35v at the highest power ( 10 ).
[ Even if this fully-powered-up situation does not actually happen in the fault scenario ( i.e. when the wirefeed is running without reason ), it would still be worth connecting the torch back and pressing the trigger and making these measurements, to confirm that the welder is going to work properly - after we fix it ! ]
From your posting here just before the video, it sounds like this full power-up does not happen - but have you tried in all positions of the 4-way "Mode" selector switch?
( You see, in position one - the continuous line - if this position means "just feed the wire from a new reel", there would not be welding power nor gas, only wire feed motor - which is what we are seeing.)

Hello Eddie. The click is from the switch on the control box, not from the contactor, th gas valve and contactor doest do anything at the moment even when i connct the torch and press the switch on the torch wich acording to my grandpa used to work, only the wir feed kept running. In other words you coud still weld but when you released the switch the wire feed kept going.

I have tried the 4 position switch and it remains the same. contactor and gas valve do nothing on any of the settings.
Coud that setting mean soemthing else to like stick welding? The welder has 2 connectors on the front of it where you can hook up the earth wire or maybe an handle for stick welding, coud that be? I dont have a manual of this welder wish i had woud explain what the settings are of the switch. If it is a setting for the wire feed like you say i coud explain why the switch was so hard to turn and the pot meter closest to the 4 position switch was broken maybe sommething happend to it wich damaged the switch and pot meter

I am going to take the control box and multimeter with me when i go to the shop in the afternoon and see what i can measure for you

Thnx for the info

 

[jorva]

Just to be sure I just checked the outputs of the old switch and the new one I installed to make sure I did not instal a wrong switch and that is ok makes the exact same connections as the old one. Going to the shop now and do the measurements like Eddie asked.

 

[Memmeddu]

Does the speed controller work ?

 

[jorva]

Does the speed controller work ?

Yes have a look at the video I posted

 

[jorva]

Just had a look at the contactor it works on 24volts it gets its power straight from the 24volt transformer and the green wire is the signal wire coming from the pcb

 

[jorva]

Some pictures. The green signal wire for the contactor also has the Same connection as the gas valve.

 

[jorva]

Picture of the 2 connectors on the front for ground? Going both to the same transformer.

 

[Seadog]

That's a choke.

 

[jorva]

When I control the contactor manually by pushing in the contact I measured the voltage coming from the ground and the torch euro connector like on the picture
It wil measure 18.3 volts

 

[jorva]

That's a choke.

What does that do? My other mig does not have it.

 

[Seadog]

It smooths the current. Helps to maintain a steady current.

 

[jorva]

It smooths the current. Helps to maintain a steady current.

OH ok, but meant what are the 2 connectors on the front for

 

[jorva]

Just measured this on the big transistor on the back of the control box it reads 71,8 ac volts can that be correct? I woud have expected 24volts ac or dc

 

[jorva]

I took a piece of wire and bridged the yelow and green wire on top of the 24V transformer and the contactor work so does the gas valve both seem to work on 24V ac 50hz so far so good.

 

[jorva]

Found out there was a wire loose coming from the euro connection. I think I may have done this when loosening the connections to trace wich wire goes where from the pcb to everything. I now have this reading on it.

 

[Memmeddu]

Picture of the 2 connectors on the front for ground? Going both to the same transformer.

They have different inductance and different voltages fall factor ,so one is more like spray arc than other which is more smooth and quiet

 

[angellonewolf]

In your video when you turn the machine on there is an audible click. Does that sound just come from the on/off switch, or is this the main contactor closing, and/or the gas solenoid ?
You may be able to feel the gas valve moving, or measure 24v across it.
If the main welding power is on, you should get about 20vDC between the Eurotorch socket and the earth clamp on the lowest setting ( 1 ), rising to perhaps 35v at the highest power ( 10 ).
[ Even if this fully-powered-up situation does not actually happen in the fault scenario ( i.e. when the wirefeed is running without reason ), it would still be worth connecting the torch back and pressing the trigger and making these measurements, to confirm that the welder is going to work properly - after we fix it ! ]
From your posting here just before the video, it sounds like this full power-up does not happen - but have you tried in all positions of the 4-way "Mode" selector switch?
( You see, in position one - the continuous line - if this position means "just feed the wire from a new reel", there would not be welding power nor gas, only wire feed motor - which is what we are seeing.)

did i see someone had a go at repairing this before ? could they have had the cables off the 4 way switch before and thats why its running all the time ?