- Thread starter donbrizzo
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Indeed, each one has its uses, but if you have the time a vertical is still miles better than the other options at cutting slabs, heads, even tube if you are careful. In an ideal world have one of each with 3 bands and slow and fast speeds. After my lathe my fast/slow running band saw is the best tool in my workshop.
I wanted one for ages & nothing decent or remotely sensible price would come up over several months.
In the end I admit I overpaid at £180 locally for a Sealey variant of 1984 (I think) vintage. It was a bit tatty & the lower tray & the cut length guide were missing, but working and actually not in bad nick under the grime.
A clean, a fettle, some new guide bearings & a new blade & it's fine - but no-one could call it a bargain. Its a nice thing to have around, & I knocked up a vice-clamping table so it can be used as a vertical saw as well.
In the end I admit I overpaid at £180 locally for a Sealey variant of 1984 (I think) vintage. It was a bit tatty & the lower tray & the cut length guide were missing, but working and actually not in bad nick under the grime.
A clean, a fettle, some new guide bearings & a new blade & it's fine - but no-one could call it a bargain. Its a nice thing to have around, & I knocked up a vice-clamping table so it can be used as a vertical saw as well.
Yeah £180 does seem steep for it, but it sounds like you got it up and running alright and it's worked out for you.
Is it still the case that the older ones are better built?
I keep seeing ones that are either enormous:
Or just miles away. I did toy with the idea of making a DIY donkey saw till I find one, but I keep thinking I'm better off with the angle grinder.
Is it still the case that the older ones are better built?
I keep seeing ones that are either enormous:
Or just miles away. I did toy with the idea of making a DIY donkey saw till I find one, but I keep thinking I'm better off with the angle grinder.
I don't know if the older ones are better as these all seem clones with the same castings..... but later ones do perhaps have a few more pennies shaved - so it's quite possible.
E.g. mine has black nylon hand knobs on the bandsaw sliding guides and the blade tensioner, later Clarke ones just have a bolt, so you need a spanner. I'd not be shocked to find mine has a better quality motor (but of course I don't know). It being older certainly didn't put me off, that's for sure.
It is nicer, far quieter and far cleaner a cut steel than with an angle grinder, as well as easier with the holding vice & auto switch off. The amount of abrasive dust off a grinder is not immediately noticeable but its still hell of a lot - gets everywhere & is damned unhealthy - the 6x4 you have just the cut filings in a pile, no dust all over your clothes, skin & in your lungs.
Here's one pretty local to me at £80, so they do exist (just never when you're looking)....
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Metal cutting bandsaw
Metal cutting bandsaw, age related surface rust and marks. Good working order. Comes with 3 spare blades
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Yeah that's in budget, but it'll require some tidying up here and there.Here's one pretty local to me at £80, so they do exist (just never when you're looking)....
Metal cutting bandsaw
Metal cutting bandsaw, age related surface rust and marks. Good working order. Comes with 3 spare blades
It'd cost me too much in fuel and time though unfortunately.
Great price though!
Interesting, someone made loads of these and they were sold by various sellers -Warco, clarke, Sealey - any more? They are all identical as far as I can see, mine was made in Taiwan or so the label says. Spent an hour scraping the surface rust off the vice etc, ordered a pair of bands from the guys in Treforest last night, even cut a piece of tube with the blunted band that's in there last night.
Might take the advice and remake the tin stand, but don't hold your breath. One mod that would be worth doing, if I didn't have a vertical saw would be to make a table and clamp to convert it to upright, would be easy enough methinks.
Has anyone bothered making an oiler? Is it worth it?
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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- Hampshire
Bandsaw is one of the best machines in the workshop just set it up and leave it to chew through , I can cut metal in the evenings with hardly any noise
Agree, how I made do without one for so long I'll never know. I even used my vertical to cut the lobes off a mini cam so I could machine it round the other day, saved hours of bump, bump, bump on the lathe...
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
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There’s already 2 threaded holes on the ‘bottom’ guide when it’s upright to screw a table onto.
Mines branded as SIP but it’s the same one
I have the Startrite 24 - s - 10 meaning it has 10 speeds.
For cutting bar stock etc a horizontal is far better but the vertical is awesome. It has solid block guides not rollers. As @Dapph2 will testify the other day I cut a strip off a piece of 6mm angle about 8 to 10" long. Width within half a thou - thats milling machine accuracy - it always amazes me!
I made a table that clamps into the vice instead of onto the blade guide.
It's sturdier & much quicker to swap between vertical & horizontal use (just release the vice & lift the table away).
I bolted mine up out of bits of Unistrut to get it lined up & seated securely on the bed in the vice then just tacked it up with the welder. It's not flash but does the trick.
It's sturdier & much quicker to swap between vertical & horizontal use (just release the vice & lift the table away).
I bolted mine up out of bits of Unistrut to get it lined up & seated securely on the bed in the vice then just tacked it up with the welder. It's not flash but does the trick.
Laurie Tedcastle
Member
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- NW Northants (UK)
I run neat cutting oil on my 6x4. Not the best photo but may provide inspiration. The 'tank' was welded up from square tube, bit of car brake pipe and fittings and a little air-line on/off tap. Blade cuts better, lasts longer, but it is a little messy.
Laurie
Laurie
Mine a Clarke 4 inch cut ( second or third hand to me ) came with the original steel footplate & mounting screws etc . It was when setting it up that I tipped it over backwards damaging the wheel casing and ripping out the cable stress reliefs. GRW's vice table sounds good , perhaps not so if you have a long flat sheet where you cannot see the cutting line easily . What limitations have you found GRW?
I can't say I've cut long sheet through the table, but no limitations beyond its just a small table of course, and the throat of the saw isn't large like a bigger bandsaw.
I think it helps with mine that my carrier clamps into the vice, then turns 90 degrees and lies on the bed running towards the saw in the upright position.
I then have a "foot" part under the upright for the table which supports it further off the bed..... so all the support is well out of the way low down (is dead easy to install as you just guide the table slot over the blade as you sit it on the bed, & just tighten the vice clamp). I can also raise the rear/lower blade guide up under the table for additional support - though I don't think it's really necessary.
I think I've a pic on my phone somewhere.
(These saws are very tail heavy in the upright position - you have to be careful to hang onto the saw bow when you lift it so the spring doesn't catapult the bow upwards and back - as the momentum of all that cast weight v a light tin chassis makes it top heavy, & will have it fly over backwards. Note there should be a small metal latching piece at the pivot point you can lift to prevent the saw coming towards you & down once upright as well).
