DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 6,487
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Racer , see if any of this is useful to you.
One cheap wall lining membrane is tar paper ..it's two sheets of strong brown paper with tar/ bitumen sprayed on in between it can be tacked in position or glues in place or stapled if you have a wood frame to attach to . I've seen it used many times , a lot of it was done just after WW2 . I was still seeing it in good order in 1980's & 1990's.
I lined the whole of the garage with it , tucking it down behind the floor's WPDC over lap ( 2 foot up the walls ) , using some bitumen spray ( rattle can ) to stick both together.
Due to needing to make it into a warm dry office . I then constructed an internal frame around all the walls , windows and door using 75 x 44 mm CLS with the 57 mm edge to the wall long using stainless pozidrive screws and through the hole red wall plugs. ( CLS + Cut Lumber Standardized ..cut to these dimension at the wood mill & can be quite cheap )
The frame work was done at 400 mm centres as insulation batts available at the time fit this size , so do the heavy foil backed plaster boards.
After doing all that I purchased six or seven packs of 75 mm thick compressed mineral wool batts , ran in the power, phone & computer lines along with gas & water service pipes and put the washing machine drain & dryer vent out through the wall . ( I wouldn't do that these days, as we have a refrigerating condensing wet clothes drying machine & all that's needed is an extra connection to the waste water system )
I took a lot of time getting the wall boards to the right height & then marking out the positions for power phone & computer sockets ( done by marking from the top edge of each board so the gaps are below the skirting boards top edge , then cut out the holes for power etc & fixing them , not forgetting the corner beads etc to stop corner edges getting damaged in the future. Caulked all the joints put up
Finally giving the newly boarded walls m a pre-made rollered skimming , taking it flat smooth with a hand float .
The ceiling was then also boarded with the heavy foil backed board , I included a trap door I could get through and then I got my son to put 15 inches of rock mineral wool roll insulation all over the roof ( had to explain to home about getting it in to the eaves and me then putting in a 4 " louvered round air vent in each gable end to take out any condensation that may eventually occur .
The last few steps were to use an empty bread bag on my hand to make artex patterns in the ceiling , My las would wipe off any splashes from the walls, all was left once things were dried was to paint the ceiling with two coats of flat mat emulsion , then paint the walls with three coats of lilac pink , then finally add any second fix wood and the face plates to the sockets etc and put a shelf in for the dryer to sit above the washing machine & put down a bamboo strip wooden floor on top of a troweled on adhesive sealer .
Due to the high standard of work and how it was set out , it added nearly £ 15 k to the value of our property according the several different estate agent/ valuers ( that was just over 10 yrs ago ). Total cost to us was about £ 4.2
Re the battens , whilst treated roofing battens can work as a nail /screw too framework ( you split the insulation bars in tow with a sharp carving knife to get then thinner ) the larger 75 mm width give better sound proofing & hear retention .
You'll also find it hard to nail or screw to the narrow edge unless you make a precision fit IE . straighten out all warped & twisted battens as well as setting them precisely straight & square on the walls . setting them on the widest edge reduces the insulation gap further and reduces the noise dampening properties .
You might be able to inject a weak push expanding insulation foam in the cavity every 300 mm or so at a later date but that could be expensive as they tear about £ 6.50p out your pocket each time.
Just had another idea it may /may not be viable
There are foam insulated plaster boards available from builders merchants .. ( see if you can strike a deal to get a good price ) .. they can be spot & dabbed to walls ,I can't remember if you need to put anchoring screws through them though ...I don't think you need battens at all and you can run power cables behind the boards ( just draw an accurate map of where the cables run & keep it safe by the consumer unit in a heat sealed jacket
Perhaps whilst waiting for cash to appear (a bit like waiting for death ) it could be worth while to explore some of these avenues and cost things out .
You'll never know which will be the best , easiest & cheapest till you do .
Dave
One cheap wall lining membrane is tar paper ..it's two sheets of strong brown paper with tar/ bitumen sprayed on in between it can be tacked in position or glues in place or stapled if you have a wood frame to attach to . I've seen it used many times , a lot of it was done just after WW2 . I was still seeing it in good order in 1980's & 1990's.
I lined the whole of the garage with it , tucking it down behind the floor's WPDC over lap ( 2 foot up the walls ) , using some bitumen spray ( rattle can ) to stick both together.
Due to needing to make it into a warm dry office . I then constructed an internal frame around all the walls , windows and door using 75 x 44 mm CLS with the 57 mm edge to the wall long using stainless pozidrive screws and through the hole red wall plugs. ( CLS + Cut Lumber Standardized ..cut to these dimension at the wood mill & can be quite cheap )
The frame work was done at 400 mm centres as insulation batts available at the time fit this size , so do the heavy foil backed plaster boards.
After doing all that I purchased six or seven packs of 75 mm thick compressed mineral wool batts , ran in the power, phone & computer lines along with gas & water service pipes and put the washing machine drain & dryer vent out through the wall . ( I wouldn't do that these days, as we have a refrigerating condensing wet clothes drying machine & all that's needed is an extra connection to the waste water system )
I took a lot of time getting the wall boards to the right height & then marking out the positions for power phone & computer sockets ( done by marking from the top edge of each board so the gaps are below the skirting boards top edge , then cut out the holes for power etc & fixing them , not forgetting the corner beads etc to stop corner edges getting damaged in the future. Caulked all the joints put up
Finally giving the newly boarded walls m a pre-made rollered skimming , taking it flat smooth with a hand float .
The ceiling was then also boarded with the heavy foil backed board , I included a trap door I could get through and then I got my son to put 15 inches of rock mineral wool roll insulation all over the roof ( had to explain to home about getting it in to the eaves and me then putting in a 4 " louvered round air vent in each gable end to take out any condensation that may eventually occur .
The last few steps were to use an empty bread bag on my hand to make artex patterns in the ceiling , My las would wipe off any splashes from the walls, all was left once things were dried was to paint the ceiling with two coats of flat mat emulsion , then paint the walls with three coats of lilac pink , then finally add any second fix wood and the face plates to the sockets etc and put a shelf in for the dryer to sit above the washing machine & put down a bamboo strip wooden floor on top of a troweled on adhesive sealer .
Due to the high standard of work and how it was set out , it added nearly £ 15 k to the value of our property according the several different estate agent/ valuers ( that was just over 10 yrs ago ). Total cost to us was about £ 4.2
Re the battens , whilst treated roofing battens can work as a nail /screw too framework ( you split the insulation bars in tow with a sharp carving knife to get then thinner ) the larger 75 mm width give better sound proofing & hear retention .
You'll also find it hard to nail or screw to the narrow edge unless you make a precision fit IE . straighten out all warped & twisted battens as well as setting them precisely straight & square on the walls . setting them on the widest edge reduces the insulation gap further and reduces the noise dampening properties .
You might be able to inject a weak push expanding insulation foam in the cavity every 300 mm or so at a later date but that could be expensive as they tear about £ 6.50p out your pocket each time.
Just had another idea it may /may not be viable
There are foam insulated plaster boards available from builders merchants .. ( see if you can strike a deal to get a good price ) .. they can be spot & dabbed to walls ,I can't remember if you need to put anchoring screws through them though ...I don't think you need battens at all and you can run power cables behind the boards ( just draw an accurate map of where the cables run & keep it safe by the consumer unit in a heat sealed jacket
Perhaps whilst waiting for cash to appear (a bit like waiting for death ) it could be worth while to explore some of these avenues and cost things out .
You'll never know which will be the best , easiest & cheapest till you do .
Dave