Why does everyone tell me I can't do this ?

[Alfaman]

Just in case a moderator is reading this thread, I really don't mind being called mental. I've heard worse.

George, I wasn't suggesting you were mental:

You'll NEVER find a £30 quid LIDL welding plant in use regular (TYPO!) in any reputable establishment. Full stop.

Anyone who argues against this is mental.

See?

Some people are taking this thread a bit over seriously.

Yep. Go into your local welding/fabbing 'shop. See any LIDL/ALDI plant? No, thought not

done the 20ft dropoff and railed the berms at the end.

WHAAATTT?? Respect, dude!! (p.s. did you check out that Porcupine Tree album?)

Anyway, chill out everyone, have a great weekend.
Cheers
Ed

 

[GeorgeB]

I'd never suggest that anything I propose would apply in the professional arena, like a reputable establishment. Also, the LIDL user manual specifically excludes trade use. That said, i'm now wondering if any of us should be risking any DIY welding on safety critical kit like cars or bikes, when I've just seen the cracks reported by Toscane on another recent thread. His arc welds look superb and yet the joints are cracking. What hope is there for us?

 

[Paul-n]

I've found some old bits of bicycle frame tubing but these are from a 1980s Raleigh, steel-framed road bike. Is that relevant for what you're trying to do? What sort of weld joint would you need to achieve?

George

Yes that is the type of stuff and also here
http://www.atomiczombie.com/ct-welding.html - welding

He has lot's of followers and sells loads of bike plans :- http://http://www.atomiczombie.com/main.aspx?click=plans these use a mix of m/s square tubing and bicycle bits.

Brazing is hard without O/A you sometimes need both the brazing torch and a propane torch to get enough heat into the joint and I don't want the hazards/bottle rental of O/A.

regards Paul

 

[GeorgeB]

Paul - I took a photo of the tubing I have so you might suggest how I try and join it, by way of a simple demo. But now I've lost the connection lead for my camera, so I can't load the image! The joints on the 1980s bikes are very neat. They must have ground back any welded or brazed joints very carefully, so it look like there are hardly any joints at all. My gut feel is still to pursue the TIG route but, if you could make arc or MIG work it would be cheaper. I'm not convinced that MIG would do much better than arc on these joints. There are no long seams to weld. It looks like short seams and little more than tacks or plug welds. Given enough practice, one can control an arc rod to deliver perfectly sound tacks and plug welds. It only becomes more of a challenge to run something like a 4" plus bead, but that's not relevant here, is it?

 

[Paul-n]

Paul - I took a photo of the tubing I have so you might suggest how I try and join it, by way of a simple demo. But now I've lost the connection lead for my camera, so I can't load the image! The joints on the 1980s bikes are very neat. They must have ground back any welded or brazed joints very carefully, so it look like there are hardly any joints at all. My gut feel is still to pursue the TIG route but, if you could make arc or MIG work it would be cheaper. I'm not convinced that MIG would do much better than arc on these joints. There are no long seams to weld. It looks like short seams and little more than tacks or plug welds. Given enough practice, one can control an arc rod to deliver perfectly sound tacks and plug welds. It only becomes more of a challenge to run something like a 4" plus bead, but that's not relevant here, is it?

Georgeb

Look here :-

http://www.atomiczombie.com/ct-welding.html#welding

mainly round to square and some round to round as at the end of the tutorial.

regards Paul

 

[Dogbreath23]

helo Paul, here is my ha'peth worth. I used to have a clarke 145turbo stick welder and I'd have to say that for what you want to do(wonky bikes) you'd be making life difficult for yourself if you got one. The 145 was fine for thicker material but on lower amps and thinner rods 1.6 striking and maintaining an arc was difficult.If I was you I'd save my pennys and go for the dc inverter.What's wrong with yer mig anyway?

 

[Dogbreath23]

by the way the bikes of Chunkolini ARE real. Ive seen them and they are horrific!.....

 

[Paul-n]

helo Paul, here is my ha'peth worth. I used to have a clarke 145turbo stick welder and I'd have to say that for what you want to do(wonky bikes) you'd be making life difficult for yourself if you got one. The 145 was fine for thicker material but on lower amps and thinner rods 1.6 striking and maintaining an arc was difficult.If I was you I'd save my pennys and go for the dc inverter.What's wrong with yer mig anyway?

yep bough a R-Tech Tig of ebay yesterday , MIG was poor design causing wire feed problems, I have it for sale on this forum but no takers.

regards Paul

 

[Wozzaaah]

I did PM you why I thought you might not be getting any interest in your mig but you didn't take my advice or even bother to reply.
Anyhoo, this thread's about your TIG and that looks like a great little machine, it should do you well.

 

[Paul-n]

I did PM you why I thought you might not be getting any interest in your mig but you didn't take my advice or even bother to reply.

In that you are correct , however advice is only advice ?

I am trying to show that the MIG has problems that may be down to it's faulty design or may be down to my lack of skill with it.

I do not want to deceive someone on this forum who may not be familiar with the SIP/Cosmo wire feed problems.

If it doesn't sell I will give it away , I want it out of the way and a little money for it would help towards the TIG gas.

regards Paul